Hi,I have a '91 airstream and on the lower breaker position is a GFI, ground fault breaker.So the identifying marks on the actual breaker are:************************Type Q0 60/75 deg CWIRE1 Pole Class A 120vacSquare D AL/CU #8-#14Interrupting rating 10,000 ampsMax. RMS sym. 120 vacseries 2************************So its a Square D... I went on the internet and did a bunch of searching, and, I found a breaker part number that might be it. But Im not sure. The first part number in the list seems to be a base part number and the ones after that seem to be breakers with special options. I have no idea what the options mean. Partno. QO120GFIMini CB - QO - 20A - 1P - 120V - 10kA - Plug-in - GFIPartno. QO120GFI35Mini CB - QO - 20A - 1P - 120V - 10kA - Plug-in - GFI - 50DegPartno. QO120GFIBCPMini CB - QO - 20A - 1P - 120V - 10kA - Plug-in - GFI - CPPartno. QO120GFICPMini CB - QO - 20A - 1P - 120V - 10kA - Plug-in - GFI - CPPartno. QO120GFISPMini CB - QO - 20A - 1P - 120V - 10kA - Plug-in - GFIPartno. QO120VHGFIMini CB - QO - 20A - 1P - 120V - 22kA - Plug-in - GFI

Comments below ... the standard breaker with no options should work ... it might be best to remove the breaker and take it to an electrical supply, they should be able to find an equivalent match to your existing breaker. Partno. QO120GFI -- Base GFI Breaker, No OptionsMini CB - QO - 20A - 1P - 120V - 10kA - Plug-in - GFIPartno. QO120GFI35 -- Higher temp ratingMini CB - QO - 20A - 1P - 120V - 10kA - Plug-in - GFI - 50DegPartno. QO120GFIBCP -- Commercial PackagingMini CB - QO - 20A - 1P - 120V - 10kA - Plug-in - GFI - CPPartno. QO120GFICP -- Commerical PackagingMini CB - QO - 20A - 1P - 120V - 10kA - Plug-in - GFI - CPPartno. QO120GFISP -- Short PigtailMini CB - QO - 20A - 1P - 120V - 10kA - Plug-in - GFIPartno. QO120VHGFI 22kA breakerMini CB - QO - 20A - 1P - 120V - 22kA - Plug-in - GFI

Check your local Home Depot or Lowes I think they both carry Square D breakers and panels. 84 Lumber may even carry them. Take it out, take a picture or take it with you and match it up.

If the breaier is a GFCI (has test button) I would only replace with another GFCI. there is a reason they use those.

ggardne2 wrote:Comments below ... the standard breaker with no options should work ... it might be best to remove the breaker and take it to an electrical supply, they should be able to find an equivalent match to your existing breaker. Partno. QO120GFI -- Base GFI Breaker, No OptionsMini CB - QO - 20A - 1P - 120V - 10kA - Plug-in - GFIPartno. QO120GFI35 -- Higher temp ratingMini CB - QO - 20A - 1P - 120V - 10kA - Plug-in - GFI - 50DegPartno. QO120GFIBCP -- Commercial PackagingMini CB - QO - 20A - 1P - 120V - 10kA - Plug-in - GFI - CPPartno. QO120GFICP -- Commerical PackagingMini CB - QO - 20A - 1P - 120V - 10kA - Plug-in - GFI - CPPartno. QO120GFISP -- Short PigtailMini CB - QO - 20A - 1P - 120V - 10kA - Plug-in - GFIPartno. QO120VHGFI 22kA breakerMini CB - QO - 20A - 1P - 120V - 22kA - Plug-in - GFIReplacing a GFI with a standard breaker without making the first outlet a pass through GFI outlet is a violation of electrical code, and makes for a very unsafe situation.

rhagfo wrote:ggardne2 wrote:Comments below ... the standard breaker with no options should work ... it might be best to remove the breaker and take it to an electrical supply, they should be able to find an equivalent match to your existing breaker. Partno. QO120GFI -- Base GFI Breaker, No OptionsMini CB - QO - 20A - 1P - 120V - 10kA - Plug-in - GFIPartno. QO120GFI35 -- Higher temp ratingMini CB - QO - 20A - 1P - 120V - 10kA - Plug-in - GFI - 50DegPartno. QO120GFIBCP -- Commercial PackagingMini CB - QO - 20A - 1P - 120V - 10kA - Plug-in - GFI - CPPartno. QO120GFICP -- Commerical PackagingMini CB - QO - 20A - 1P - 120V - 10kA - Plug-in - GFI - CPPartno. QO120GFISP -- Short PigtailMini CB - QO - 20A - 1P - 120V - 10kA - Plug-in - GFIPartno. QO120VHGFI 22kA breakerMini CB - QO - 20A - 1P - 120V - 22kA - Plug-in - GFIReplacing a GFI with a standard breaker without making the first outlet a pass through GFI outlet is a violation of electrical code, and makes for a very unsafe situation.The standard breaker they are referring to is a GFI breaker.

Trying to identify a Breaker in my electric panel...

24 Replies

drsteve
Explorer
Dec 20, 2018
groundhogy wrote:
If I replace a good extension cord, and the problem persists elsewhere....

In that case you will have two good extension cords.

Since an extra extension cord is generally more useful than an extra breaker, I would start with replacing the cord.
groundhogy
Explorer
Dec 20, 2018
Yes, If I replace a good breaker and the problem persists elsewhere, the breaker will continue to trip.

Also, If I replace a good extension cord, and the problem persists elsewhere....
deltabravo
Nomad
Dec 20, 2018
Bobbo wrote:
groundhogy wrote:
The issue is this...lol

When I connect my christmas lights up through a very old extension cord to my outside sockets, and if it rains, the breaker being discussed trips quite a bit

This explains your problem nicely. The GFCI is DESIGNED to trip if there is any current leakage. The old lights or extension cord, when wet, has some current leakage, ergo, the GFCI trips. It is supposed to trip. It is doing its job. A replacement will do exactly the same thing.

Ditto.

The new ends that have been installed aren't weather proof, and if they contonually get wet, that's a problem.

First thing I'd do is replace the inferior / aging cords.
myredracer
Explorer II
Dec 17, 2018
If a GFCI trips, the first suspect should always be a leakage to ground somewhere.

*If* you were to replace the breaker, all you'd need to know is that it's a Square D "QO" type. Easiest thing to do is just take them into a HD or Lowes and get them to match it up.

You don't often see a GFCI breaker in a panel. They cost quite a bit more than than a GFCI receptacle. If you were thinking of replacing the GFCI breaker, you could always install a GFCI receptacle instead, if you can determine which receptacle is first in line on a circuit (may not be easy). The old breaker could be left in place because two GFCIs in series are not a problem.

What I've always found annoying is the so-called weatherproof cover plates. Once you flip the lid open and plug something in, it's possible for water to get in. They do have cover plates now that cover the plug as well but are bulky and might look odd on the side of an RV.
Gdetrailer
Explorer III
Dec 16, 2018
A lot of Christmas lights even though they may be rated as Indoor/outdoor may not be weather proof enough for full on outdoor exposure to direct rain or high humidity.

Many of these Christmas lights will have a micro fuse holder built into the plug, this type of plug MUST be protected from direct rain, otherwise the rain will make its way into the fuse holder and cause enough leakage to trip a GFIC.

Additionally the bulb sockets for LEDs may not be weatherproof, try to point the bulb down so the sockets do not gather water..

With LED strings there is also an resistor built into the plug or a separate bump on the string which may also be an additional point of leakage if it is not fully weatherproofed.

Newer GFICs are considerably more sensitive than older ones, I believe the NEC changes the trip specs to make them more sensitive a few yrs ago. Not a bad thing but can cause occasional false trips.
groundhogy
Explorer
Dec 16, 2018
Yes, on the diesel heater, I have a an outdoor timer. This I have mounted to wood and put a plastic tub over the sensitive parts. We are going through several days of rain right now, so its a good time to run tests. I have unplugged the Christmas lights.

No breaker tripping so far.

I am suspecting the Chinese Christmas lights. Lots and lots of little connections.

Both of the extension cords are connected to the outlet.

Outlets are well caulked and fairly well sheltered from rain.

The Christmas lights are new.
3 of the four extension cord ends are new.

It only takes a slight bit of current imbalance on these GFI circuits to trip them.
drsteve
Explorer
Dec 15, 2018
Yeah, something besides the Christmas decorations is going to get lit up here.

If the above suggestions do not help, you might want to replace that outside outlet with a weather resistant type, if it is not already.

Weather Resistant Outlet
Gdetrailer
Explorer III
Dec 15, 2018
Bobbo wrote:
groundhogy wrote:
The issue is this...lol

When I connect my christmas lights up through a very old extension cord to my outside sockets, and if it rains, the breaker being discussed trips quite a bit

This explains your problem nicely. The GFCI is DESIGNED to trip if there is any current leakage. The old lights or extension cord, when wet, has some current leakage, ergo, the GFCI trips. It is supposed to trip. It is doing its job. A replacement will do exactly the same thing.

We have a winner!

Your GFCI Breaker IS SAVING YOUR LIFE and is functioning as it should.

Groundhoggy, you stated you are using an OLD EXTENSION CORD AND OLD LIGHTS.

Good chance that either the extension cord and/or the old lights may have enough electrical leakage (especially when wet, damp or in dew) to trigger the GFCI.

Try a new extension cord, if that does not fix then try new lights with new extension cord.

Other things to try, if you have ANY electrical connections (IE plugs) exposed to the weather, try wrapping some plastic around the connection to help shed moisture. Also try putting the connection if laying on the ground on a block of wood and COVER that connection with a bucket.

This is not a place to ignore the GFCI, it IS telling you to fix the problem with the wiring (IE lights and cord)..
beemerphile1
Explorer
Dec 15, 2018
groundhogy wrote:
The issue is this...lol

When I connect my christmas lights up through a very old extension cord to my outside sockets, and if it rains, the breaker being discussed trips quite a bit...

It is trying to save your life, and the lives of your family and maybe neighbors.

Fix the problem.
Spridle
Explorer
Dec 13, 2018
While it could be the extension cord, there is a very good chance its the lack of a good cover at the receptacle.
Vertical cover link

There is both a vertical and horizontal cover in the listing. They are designed to keep water off of your receptacle. They are required for continuous use, however they protrude causing a new problem.

there is a low profile cover but may not be deep enough for your cord?
Taymac MX4280WH