Turn off auto defrost?

Sorry, I just HAD to state this. I get so tired of the folk's that every time there is a complaint on a RV reefer, they state to install a residential reefer...

:) :) :) Good one Doug!

You need to install an RV absorbsion refer. That lets you drop your DC consumpsion almost completely.:p

Sorry, I just HAD to state this. I get so tired of the folk's that every time there is a complaint on a RV refer, they state to install a residential refer. Older refers had a mechanical defrost time. The current usually as another posted the timer is built into the logic of the main control board. That said, you COULD go to the defrost heaters themselves and disconnect one of the 2 power wire spade terminals, run a 2 wire jumper to a toggle switch(120 20 amp rated) and then just turn the switch on and off as needed. The Timer will still send current to the heater, but if the toggle is OFF then no amp draw happens. Doug

past-MIdirector wrote:
There is no way. The defrost is controlled by the circuit board and is an internal part. Just don't open the doors as much. The defrost is set to either go every 8 or 12 hours of compressor run time so not that often.

Assuming there really is no way, or it is otherwise impractical, why not disrupt the controlled circuit directly. Find the wires going to the defrost heating element and switch those directly. No need to mess with the circuit board at all. I believe most have open loop logic and merely operate on timed cycles. A closed loop system might present additional challenges. Am I missing something?

There is no way. The defrost is controlled by the circuit board and is an internal part. Just don't open the doors as much. The defrost is set to either go every 8 or 12 hours of compressor run time so not that often.

There has to be a timer that turns the heater off and on.

I want to disconnect it for times I boon-dock for one day. Defrost mode draws up to eighty amps, and I have only two house batteries. I will look for a schematic. There are no boards or wiring other than the 115VAC.

x2

+1 to cut the timer wire (the one that makes its "clock" run and run wire out to a switch.

Remember, now, that when you DO go to defrost it, you'll need the time for an inaccessible big block of ice to finally melt. Timer will start from whenever you stopped it, so defrost cycle won't come up right away, and one cycle may not fully clear it.

Probably pull a wire off the timer.

Why would you want to do that??? The defrost timer and mode is critical for a residential refer to operate at its optimum. Doug

Hi Ron,
Can you post the wiring schematic?