Hey all, we are using our trailer for Thanksgiving weekend and when we set up, the heater runs for a few seconds and stops.We have full hookups so we have electric heaters keeping us warm, but any ideas? It's 20 degrees tonight, so I would prefer the main heater.

Usually the 12VDC fan has to work to keep the sail fan in the ON position.. IS that happening... This is a safety feature to shut down the propane furnace in the event the DC Fan quits workings... Might need to WD40 the sail fan some... 12VDC DC also runs the thermostat... I am assuming your propane tank is feeding the main kitchen stove burners OK... All burning nice clear blue flames right... Red Orange color means you have an air leak in propane line... I always ran the burners first before turning on the propane heater to make sure I have propane haha...My older trailer has the propane tank select switch. I imagine the newer ones is auto selectIf both of these are working then it has to be obstruction in the propane line somewhere... Spider webs, rats nest around the sail switch is what alot of folks fine etc... Insects/Wasps crawl in from the hot air cover outside. I'm sure your trailer also vents heat from the propane furnace towards the water tank... being down in the 20's might freeze that up if the furnace is not working...just some of my thoughts...Roy Ken

Turn thermostat off/on and try several times . Might call mobile tech or fellow RVer to help you. As Roy mentioned, there are a number of factors.Call me. I can help you.

Maybe the obvious? Are you out of propane? Did you remember to turn your propane tanks on?

Roy is correct in that, if the sail switch contacts don't close, nothing else is going to happen. Can you hear the gas valve opening and the igniter sparking? The gas valve operating is pretty loud and you can usually hear it especially if you get close to the air return. If that is not happening, Roy is right and it probably is the sail switch not closing. If you do hear the gas valve open and the igniter sparking, does it light for a few seconds and then you hear the gas valve close with a "thunk"? If that's the case, the igniter electrode may not be sending a "proving" signal to the control board. Also, the contact on the wire from the igniter may not be making good contact with the terminal on the control board and cleaning it may fix it. If you have an Attwod furnace, this is easy to check and fix from the outside. If you have a Suburban, all the guts are inside the furnace and you have to find a way to get inside it to fix the problem.I had to clean the burner and igniter on the Attwood in my previous trailer and it was easy; I just hope the Suburban in the current trailer never acts up!This was a long winded explanation but I hope something in it helps you get some heat. Being cold stinks.Happy Thanksgiving,Ken

Man does that sound familure.Immed solution if you have electric is a space heater or two, However I do not like 1500 watt heaters on RV type outelts save for the washer/dryer outlet if so equipped.. Figure out a 12 gauge way to power them (I installed additional outlets that are of higher quality). Second... I will append the Furnace Tribble Shoot guide to this but I suspect your control board.. That was my problem when it happened 5 years ago.. I went with a Dionsaur board from American RV in California (there are many American RV's the one in California had the part in stock about half the price of an OEM board and ... I was SERIOUSLY impressed by the quality, I'm an Electronics trained technician and hobbyist so when I say I'm impressed.. It's impressive)Now for the boiler plate fileThis document was created while I was diagnosing MY furnace.. I am told I missed one possible issue... Sadly I forget if I updated the document or not and the issue Bad connections anywhere along the line can lower voltageWhen the T-Stat calls for heat the control board starts the blower (1)The blower blows closing the sail switch (2)The control board then opens the gas valve (3) and begins sparking (4.1)Gas Flows (5) And ignitets (4.2)The flame heats the flame sensor (5) The flame sensor sends .480 volts to the control board (6) which then detects the .480 and continues operation (*)When the T-stat says "Enough already" (RV is now warm)The control board shuts off the gas flow (*)and then turns off the blower after a cool down (*)*: At nearly every step the control board is involved. IF IT IS BAD, things will not work.. I recommend replacement boards from Dinosaur boards.. When Mine went out the Dino board was less than half the price and when opened the box the quality of construction and workmanship, and then design was very clear to my trained eyes. 1: No 12 volt to furnace, blower motor shot2: Low 12 volt, air ducts clogged, blower "obstructed" bad sail switch3: Bad solenoid, Clogged Gas Jet4: .1: Bad ignition circuit (high voltage) on control board. .2: Points too wide (Very common it seems)5: These do not often fail but they can5: Bad connection, NOTE: 5 and * Bad wire. * applies to all steps by the way So does bad wire/connection.

Urgent help, heater failed | Good Sam Community

27 Replies

Old-Biscuit
Explorer III
Nov 24, 2016
Furnace lights off...runs for few minutes and then shuts down

Flame proving circuit
Main flame after lighting off has to 'prove' that it lit and is staying lit.
THat is done using the spark electrode

If spark electrode is dirty (soot.carbon) signal will not go to circuit board
If spark electrode is not in correct position...same
If spark electrode gap is too wide/too narrow (1/8") ....same
If ceramic is cracked on spark electrode.same
If high tension wire to/from spark electrode isnt making good/tight connection...same
If circuit board connectors are not making good/tight contact....same

If main flame lights off.then goes out.......Flame Proving circuit
enblethen
Nomad
Nov 24, 2016
I would do a good blow out with a can of air. Aim toward the sail switch area as I suspect a small fleck of dirt blocking it's operation.
Leave the WD-40 away from the furnace.
WILDEBILL308
Explorer II
Nov 24, 2016
I don't know if your thermostat has one but turn the settings to off. pull the front of the thermostat off next find and remove the fuse,check the fuse, wait one minute and reinstall the fuse. Now try the thermostat. Make shure all the settings on the thermostat are set for gas heat.
Bill
MrWizard
Moderator
Nov 24, 2016
You went camping, with an empty fresh water tank?
Expecting to use campground water!

Just to save a few pounds you're weight?

Always travel with at least 1/2 tank
That fresh water has saved more than one radiator and engine when traveling, and a real convenience if stuck or stranded because of bad weather, road accidents etc..

You have the cat heater and the electric heat,
You can trouble shoot the furnace at home
Don't forget to check your battery voltage
A bad wire connection , low voltage, and the heater won't work correctly
RoyB
Explorer II
Nov 24, 2016
Anything we get new to us toys we always camp out in the back yard or local camp ground and try out everything to get an idea how it all works before heading out... Learning what doesn't work at home sure has its advantages haha... WALMART and LOWES always close by to buy parts to fix things...

ALmost all of our camping is off-road way back in the woods somewhere. Have spoiled a couple of camping trips over the years but been at it so long now we pretty much know what to expect and what works for us haha...

Lived in the Tempe area for a few years back in the 60s and 70s and our love back then was pulling a util trailer with our trusty ole jeep and tent camping in the high country North of Payson just about where AZ89 would end up taking us haha... It still surprises me on how we managed some of those way back off-grid places between Phoenix and I40...

This google image kinda shows how we did it in the late 60s...

Jerome and Smiley Rock High Country areas...

I'm still doing the same thing now but at least have got off the ground with my OFF-ROAD POPUP trailer... Its gets pretty cold here in the winter months camping in the high country along Skyline Drive and Blue Ridge Parkway.

Roy's Image

Good luck Brian and glad you are staying warm...

Roy Ken
KE6IRJ
Explorer
Nov 24, 2016
Never used the furnace. The manual says if it doesn't work after 5 tries, call a technician or dealer. Pretty worthless.
j-d
Explorer II
Nov 24, 2016
How long's it been since you've successfully used this furnace? Starting to wonder if the Sail Switch is stuck. But I don't know what happens then. Such as, will the Blower run indefinitely, since it didn't light and temp setting wasn't reached? Or will it say it didn't light in a specified time so it shut down?
A Manual should tell.

I went to Chris Bryant's Site and found at least four documents that might help you.
KE6IRJ
Explorer
Nov 24, 2016
BTW-May not be the best solution, but 1500watt electric heaters kept us warm.
KE6IRJ
Explorer
Nov 24, 2016
Sorry, it was early, and cold.

Details: Suburban Gas Furnace, Manual is for SF-20F. Trailer is in signature, but a Keystone Springdale, 2010.
2 Propane tanks, both filled.

The furnace is also plumbed with an additional quick connect for my cataletic heater for boondocking, and propane is feeding fine. I Ran all stove burners and the cat. heater fine.

I opened up the access panel from under the cabinet(propane off) and am not hearing any click to ignight a burner like I do on the water heater.

We are warm, and have family in town to go get a shower, so I guess I will call a mobile tech when we get back home to AZ. We are in Big Bear for Thanksgiving, so I won't let it ruin the family time.

I am a bit frustrated, as the main pipe watersupply in camp froze,so I kept a good hose in the storage ready for a shower this morning and no camp water...
pianotuna
Nomad III
Nov 24, 2016
Hi,

Turn off the propane tank. Then turn it back on extremely slowly.

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Urgent help, heater failed

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