Use This For Equalization

12 amps constant current is acceptable for equalizing 6 cells 12 volts of an L16 battery.

I do not know what the operational Delta T minimum is on this device but it most definitely exists. Probably close to 1.5 volts. Thus a converter sustaining a feed output voltage of say 13.5 volts would not boost less than 1.5 volts which means the module could not regulate less than 15.0 volts. This needs to be investigated thoroughly. The issue is this, converters will INCREASE charging voltage if ENOUGH load is placed on them. A converter that
BOOSTS it's output from say 13.2 to 14.4 may or may not impose a minimum regulated voltage setting of 15.9 from the module.

So this means YES OR NO, WILL YOUR RV CONVERTER GO INTO BOOST MODE IF A SIXTEEN AMPERE ADDITIONAL LOAD IS IMPOSED ON IT?

With a light load which includes 6 cells of golf car battery at 11 amps this additional load would be less likely to force a converter into boost mode than 15 amperes used for 6 cells of L16.

1. Find Delta T value of the module (unknown)

2. Determine exactly what, when, where and why your CONverter changes from float to boost mode. Which will increase the regulated voltage output.

The issues above are based on fussiness on my part. The Delta T limit almost certainly will not prevent this device from working correctly.

10 volts or 14.0 volts input from the converter this device will AUTOMATICALLY maintain the voltage output you set so that is not an issue.

These gizmos can be paralleled. Given input Delta T limit even MENA can equalize all four (?) of his L16's at the same time using a pair of these modules.

But to repeat - blow air across the fins. Set the module on it's side and direct a fan right at the fins.

Batteries undergoing equalization MUST be disconnected from the battery bank.

It may also useful that the 16 amperes is the OEM self imposed limit as stated. I'd rather be timid than acquire a reputation as a "Device Killer" IMHO the limit needs hands-on investigation. I just do not trust Chinee specifications.

EDIT EDIT EDIT From the eBay site

Module Parameters:

Module Name: 600W boost constant current module, non-isolated
Input voltage 1: 12-60VDC (default range, for wide input voltage range applications)
Input voltage 2: 9-16VDC (for 3 lithium battery and 12V battery) , please do not overrange
Input Current: 16A MAX. (over 10A,please enhance heat dissipation,such as 5cm cooling fan)
Quiescent Current: 15mA (when 12V step up to 20V), if the output voltage is higher, the quiescent current will increase.)
Output Voltage : 12-80VDC (continuously adjustable),default output: 19VDC
Output Current: 12A Max. (over 10A,please enhance heat dissipation.), the greater the input and output voltage difference , the smaller the output current
Constant current range :0.1-12A
Output power: = Input voltage * 10A, such as: input 60V * 10A = 600W,if need more output power, such as need the output to 15A,two modules can be used in paralle, the current of each module can be adjusted to 8A.
Conversion efficiency: Up to 95%
Operating Frequency: 150KHz
Operating temperature: -40 to +85 °c (if the ambient temperature is too high, please enhance heat dissipation)
Overcurrent protection: Yes (if the input exceeds 17A, automatically reduces the output voltage)
Short-circuit protection: Yes (20A input fuse,double short-circuit protection.)
Output feeding back protection:Yes (for charging,the separate output diode is not required.)
Input Reverse Polarity Protection:None (If need please install diode at the input port )
Installation: two 3mm screws
Connection: terminals, solderless
Dimensions: 76mm x 60mm x 56mm
Module Weight: 205 g

awe..16a*37.5 = 600w

its late time to turn off laptop and sleep

INPUT amperage limit is 16

16 amp LIMIT ?

600 w at 16v would be 37.5 amps output

600w input limit ? 12v would be 50 amps

the adv calls it 12 amp constant current

thats a heck of a loss

are they that inefficient,

of course at 80v 7amps is 560w

so is it 600w or is 12amp

higher voltages equal lower current less than 12amp?

600w max never to exceed 12amp

12amp@16v is 192w..where did the other 408w go


12amp max with a limit of 600w ? which is 50v

They are boosters. 10-13.5 volts input you adjust output voltage to 16.0 manually by not having the booster connected to anything at first. Then set voltage then connect.

You limit current by zeroing, backing the pot all the way down at first then bring current UP TO 5% of your battery amp hour rating. This is a REGULATOR. So obviously voltage is not going to climb to 16.0 volts instantly. Voltage will climb as rapidly as 5 amps constant current will let it. The 16 volt limit is a safety. It does not shut off automatically. Check on the process in incremental time intervals. When the voltage reaches 16.0 shut it off. You are supposed to monitor the WEAK SISTER CELL with a hydrometer and if it regains full specific gravity earlier than 16 volts shut the booster down.

This is NOT INTENDED for any other purpose than to equalize a six cell battery. It will work with any converter or charger but it will not work if INCOMING converter voltage or charger voltage to the booster is 14.0 or higher. So a converter in float mode is fine.

The 6 cells to be equalized must be disconnected from the battery bank before this device is connected. Lift a negative cable to isolate the 6 cells to be equalized.

Remember connect to 13.5 volts or less, set voltage with output disconnected. Back down amperage pot then bring amperage up when unit is connected to cells to be equalized. Actually amperage should be backed down at the pot the moment this thing leaves the packing box.

The booster REMEMBERS. If the number of cells to be equalized remains the same then this booster does not need to be adjusted after the first time. Just checked and verified with a meter.

A switch on the input positive and a suitable fuse on the output positive would be a good idea. As a Matter of fact it would be mandatory for safety and protection.

100AH 5 amps
200 12 (6 cells of golf car)
320 16 amps (L16) Be careful here this is about the limit of this critter.

Use a small household fan to blow across the fins. This is not optional. Use a fan. Yes you can get fancy with a 12 volt fan.

westend wrote:
Animation and explanation of buck and boost converters

I remember many quoting the manual of a power supply a few years ago that mentioned buck voltage and and everybody giving them hell for it as a misprint.

Perhaps these would be more suitable for EQ'ing individual 6v GC2's:

www.amazon.com/dp/B00NXO4NTE

www.amazon.com/dp/B00NXF9LKO

The Blurb:

"Battery charging method:
1, be sure of the battery float voltage and charging current, the module input voltage;
2, adjust the the output to 5V by adjusting CV potentiometer;
3, use 10A multimeter to measure the output short-circuit current, while adjusting the CC potentiometer to a predetermined charging current value;
4, the default turn lamp current is 0.1 times of the charging current (constant value),
please adjust turn potentiometer if you needed.
5, adjustment CV potentiometer to the float voltage;
6, connect to the battery then charging."

??? My question is are these two units (and the one Mex posted) dc-dc BOOST (step-up) modules, or would they require an input voltage of at least 16v in order to output 16v?

MrWizard wrote:
Not all the time

Just when you want to Equalize the batteries

Couldn't this be set to say 13.2v and 2a for float?