V10 spark plug issues?

Ford made that style of engine 10 cylinders so when seven pop out, the other 3 can keep things going long enough to reach the curb or emergency parking shoulder.

Two and a half threads on an ALUMINUM spark plug hole is absurd.

I know THREE trusted individuals who had three different Ford agencies do full maintenance on their motor vehicles. All had spark plug champagne Cork adventures. I especially like the hundred dollar a pop coils on the end of the spark plugs. They're so pretty when they shatter.

Forgive my sarcasm, but Ford forgot to install GM ignition switches. That would have taken the cake.

So does anyone know for sure what year the spark plug issues were fixed?

I changed my plugs at 60k in my '99. At 102k the right rear plug blew out when starting one cold Jan. night 2 years ago. Took it into dealer to fix, change ALL the plugs and boots. No probs for 12k.
But the rest of the truck is starting to fall apart.

The owners manual maintenance schedule calls for spark plug inspection
(as I recall at 100,000 kms / 60,000 miles)

The customers who follow their schedule almost NEVER have a spark plug breaking/stuck problem.

Most folks don't want to bother to have plugs removed for inspection because "its running great"
What good could looking at the plugs do they think?

Why do you think Ford suggests to "inspect" plugs?

Probably cause it will allow easy removal later when they need replaced.. :W

Kind of like the old "Fram" ads..
you can pay me now (much less) OR you can pay me later..

have seen this go almost 8 hrs if several break off.

suprz wrote:
We have all heard the horror stories of blown plugs, stuck plug parts in the heads etc... So when did ford fix the issues? How did they fix them? This is just another part of researching the purchase of a class c for us. ( knowing if the issue was fixed on 2007 and after etc....stuff like that) I am thinking that when we do buy a class c to just have the plugs changed anyways by the dealer

Here's some info I found on ford-trucks.com
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Spark plug thread and factory procedure changes.

After much hemming and hawing, I have decided to put this info in the tech folder. This is from a document that Ford provided to the NHTSA a few years back in 2005 in response to an investigation that was closed by the NHTSA because it was not deemed a "safety" issue. It was reviewed again in 2007 and again deemed to not be a safety issue because of the number of complains (total of 652 by 2007) versus the number of engines total (over 10,000,000).

My review of documents related to this (which I won't include here) show that after the model-year 2002 changes to a long-thread head, the 2003-2004 model-year shows a substantial reduction in plug blowouts. Of 652 complaints, NONE were shown to cause any damage to the hood, cause a fire, or a gas leak of any kind. Stalling was possible but again in very rare cases, and a restart was usually possible except in ONE case.

Running spark plug changes:

December 1996 - 4.6L 4V alignment feature added
February 1997 - 4.6L 2V head alignment feature added
September 2000 - WEP (Windsor Engine Plant) 2V head alignment feature modified (4.6/5.4/6.8)
November 2002 - WEP introduced long thread heads on 2V (all)
May 2003 - REP (Romeo Engine Plant) introduced long-thread heads on 4V 4.6 and 5.4
November 2003 - REP introduced long-thread heads on 2V and modified alignment feature

In 1999, and 2001, an interim fix was done for a cross-threading issue.
Original process:

Step 1 - Zero torque spark plug (air tool)
Step 2 - Torque to 16-20Nm final torque (DC Run down), monitor at 6-12Nm, and final torque must be reached within 0-360 degrees.

New process (addressed the possibility of applying installation torque for more than 25 degrees of rotation)
Step 1 - Zero torque spark plug (air tool)
Step 2 - Torque to 16-20Nm final torque (DC Run down) start monitor at 6-12Nm, and final torque must be reached within 3-25 degrees.

Another action to address cross-threading was the addition of an alignment feature to lead the plug into the hole.

westend wrote:
I believe the modular Ford did have problems with the plugs but, IIRC, those went away in 2004. I have a '03 5.4 and haven't changed plugs yet. I'll probably let Ford handle that fairly soon.

The later years even after 04 Ford had the problems of the plugs breaking apart. They went from plugs blowing out to breaking. I know this has gone up thru 2011.

Yeah, I've read the Ford tech bulletin on removing the plugs that have the extra thread. The procedure is to crack (bad choice of word, probably) them loose barely and introduce some penetrant in the threaded hole. Wait for appropriate time and try removal. If they're stubborn, repeat the process.

In my shop days, I serviced certain Peugeot engines that had the plugs below the valve cover in a well. They're doable but are a pain. I'm letting Ford handle mine.

Thanks for the info about the plugs, I should get mine done ASAP, I have 165K on the clock.

westend wrote:
Another dealer horror story. Yeah, I feel the pain, an oil change at the dealer almost cost me an accident. The mechanic, while checking the air filter, clipped off a piece of the air filter flange and it lodged in the throttle body, holding WOT. Luckily, I was on clear road with no traffic. If it would have happened in traffic or in a parking lot, I would have been classified as one of those old farts that forgot which pedal to push.

I know my way around engines but will let Ford handle the plugs. I've found it's incredibly hard to bs an old bs'er, so they better get it right.

This is one "repair" that can be bluffed for sure since it is hidden in a deep well and covered up with the COP boot.

My suggestion is to just make sure you recheck that the plugs are properly torqued after at least one heat/cool cycle. My next tool to buy is the proper spark plug socket which has a 6" extension built on to it.. Although with some luck I will not face this again for another 80K + miles.

As a FYI, my other vehicles ran 140K plus miles on the original plugs, dealer stated on this one (2006) that the plug tips were worn down to the insulator which caused us to have a random skip/miss at 1500-2500 RPM (one of a couple of issues we had)at a mere 84K miles..

Changing the '05-'07 plugs requires having the Lisle removal tool also which can be had for $70 through Amazon just in case the plug decides to break.

One of the reasons the two piece plugs can break of while removing is from extra plug threads showing in the cylinder. These threads get coated with carbon deposits and removing the plugs requires a lot of patience and some luck to..

Another dealer horror story. Yeah, I feel the pain, an oil change at the dealer almost cost me an accident. The mechanic, while checking the air filter, clipped off a piece of the air filter flange and it lodged in the throttle body, holding WOT. Luckily, I was on clear road with no traffic. If it would have happened in traffic or in a parking lot, I would have been classified as one of those old farts that forgot which pedal to push.

I know my way around engines but will let Ford handle the plugs. I've found it's incredibly hard to bs an old bs'er, so they better get it right.

westend wrote:
I believe the modular Ford did have problems with the plugs but, IIRC, those went away in 2004. I have a '03 5.4 and haven't changed plugs yet. I'll probably let Ford handle that fairly soon.

I have been very fortunate, had '97,2003, 2006 trucks all with 5.4 that never spit out any plugs. Changed the plugs in the '97 myself and said that is stupid with the deep spark plug wells and the back two you almost needed to hire a small child to get to..

2003 I had the dealer replace the plugs with no problems..

Our 2006 however had the dealer change the plugs due to the two piece design which IS notorious for the plugs breaking off..

Well let me tell you.. If you take it to the dealer you BETTER pull the COPS after you get home AND CHECK to make sure they torqued EVERY plug..

Shortly after the dealer changed the plugs ($600) we started smelling RAW GAS in the cab.. The engine started missing and the CEL light started to flash occasionally.

Took it back to dealer.. They could not smell or find and fuel leaks but they claimed the bank two cat was clogged at 84K miles mind you) $300 repair (they sent it out to a aftermarket shop or it would have cost $800).

Final straw was a couple of weeks later the engine was missing worse and the CEL was flashing again..

I decides to buy after market COPS for $60 and change them in the hopes that it was the COPS giving me all this trouble..

Started on the drivers side.. when I got to plug number 7 I found oil/fuel all over the COP boot.. (Bank TWO) Could it be? I asked myself..

Grabbed a sparkplug socket and taped an extension to it and plunged it into the abyss of the plug well..

Well I was dumbfounded to find that this newly installed plug was a HALF turn LOOSE! :E :M

Yep, those dealer clowns I was depending on (and paid through the nose) almost cost me a $1000 repair (Timesert repair)... Not to mention the replacement CAT repair which they caused since the non firing plug filled the cat with raw fuel..

Moral of the story.. if you have a dealer change them, CHECK THE PLUGS after you drive it for a few miles...

I would have been far cheaper to DIY the repairs and had less risk all the while parking it under a shade tree..

I do feel the spitting plug thing has been blown out of proportion by mechanics (or DIY folks) who DIDN'T properly torque the plugs..

Trust me, after this experience I can't see how anyone could possibly drive a vehicle with a loose plug and NOT SMELL RAW FUEL, it was that bad..