Value of aftermarket Xenon Headlamps
I like many owners of motorized RVs have less than adequate OEM headlamps. I have seen many kits advertised as "DOT" approved conversion kits for changing to Xenon lamps and they are very expensive a...
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Screaming, throwing things, groserias (swear words in Spanish), and finally a trip to Harbor Freight to buy a Dremel type tool. Removed old headlight bases. Spot welded. Had to be drilled.
Now looking at ugly holes, on a curved sheet steel surface. Used Dremel tool after Mexican body man said he intended to cut holes with oxy acetylene. Went back to where (School District) where I bought the bus and went to cannibalized Crown and with Dremel tool cut (2-recharges) in exact same spot two discs 1/4" diameter larger than on Quicksilver. Hand ground new discs to precision fit. Spot welded Door glass U-channel across inside of Quicksilver old holes. Fit new discs. Micro torch and lead filled seams. Got world class sunburn. Body man used green micro filler to correct spot weld and solder dimples.
This is about the most difficult model I can imagine doing this to. Fiberglass is a thousand times easier to work with.
Great degree of triangular hypotenuse lighting is excellent for fog and rain. It sucks for normal roadway lighting. Straight line illumination reveals dips and mounds in the pavement surface, the dips are deep shadow, contrasted with bright mounds.
I was fortunate enough to find stainless steel Per Lux lights. Those are mounted atop the front bumper about a foot BELOW the sight line of the original bulbs. For a few years a pair of 250 watt aircraft landing lights wired in series (like the Per Lux lights) were my Mexico driving lights.
Going to go with a 55" CREE 320 watt light bar across the prow (overhead) if I can just only find an unwanted satchel of money somewhere.
Now looking at ugly holes, on a curved sheet steel surface. Used Dremel tool after Mexican body man said he intended to cut holes with oxy acetylene. Went back to where (School District) where I bought the bus and went to cannibalized Crown and with Dremel tool cut (2-recharges) in exact same spot two discs 1/4" diameter larger than on Quicksilver. Hand ground new discs to precision fit. Spot welded Door glass U-channel across inside of Quicksilver old holes. Fit new discs. Micro torch and lead filled seams. Got world class sunburn. Body man used green micro filler to correct spot weld and solder dimples.
This is about the most difficult model I can imagine doing this to. Fiberglass is a thousand times easier to work with.
Great degree of triangular hypotenuse lighting is excellent for fog and rain. It sucks for normal roadway lighting. Straight line illumination reveals dips and mounds in the pavement surface, the dips are deep shadow, contrasted with bright mounds.
I was fortunate enough to find stainless steel Per Lux lights. Those are mounted atop the front bumper about a foot BELOW the sight line of the original bulbs. For a few years a pair of 250 watt aircraft landing lights wired in series (like the Per Lux lights) were my Mexico driving lights.
Going to go with a 55" CREE 320 watt light bar across the prow (overhead) if I can just only find an unwanted satchel of money somewhere.
