ReelTime wrote:
Tommy,
There was no overflow radiator tank on my unit and the water level in the radiator was (with the radiator cap removed, engine cold) around 2 inches from the top when full. The radiator itself was the expansion tank for that year model.
The "expansion tank" subject appears to have various opinions and different set ups on various vehicles.
Any cooling system benifits from haveing an expansion tank more accuratly called a coolant recovery system. It's possible that aftermarket body prep/rv vendors fail to reinstall the tank when thier work is complete. In any event you should make certain one is used even on older vehicles and stationary engines. If yours doesn't have a tank or has a tank where coolant level doesn't rise when hot and fall when cool,check the radiator cap. The cap must have a gasket rather than metal to metal where it contacts the filler neck. For best preformance,the tank should mount near level with radiator cap and of course be connected by leak proof hose. The tank automaticly purges air (same as manual proceedure explained above by Simplygib) on every heat cool cycle. Just add water if tank is less than 25% full when cool.
The benifit is less pump cavitation,no air bubbles insulating between liquid coolant and metal of engine and radiator which henders heat transfer.
I don't think this is the issue with Tommy's rig but is simply a link in the chain of cooling events that some might not be aware of.
However,I believe the overheating should be addressed first. The lose of power may very well clear up becaues we know a hot engine doesn't perform well.