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xaugievike's avatar
xaugievike
Explorer
Apr 11, 2016

Water heater help

Hey guys.

On a recent trip the electric side of our water heater conked out on us. I assumed the element gave up, so I ordered and installed a new one. To no avail.

So I dug deeper. This ismamsuburban sw6de

1 - yes, I checked the breaker.

2 - no voltage at the electric element

3 - I did have voltage at the line to the water heater as checked at one of keystone push connectors near the WH.

4 - I checked the switch for continuity and it checked out...

Only thing I'm not sure on is the thermal overload buttons. I pushed them - pretty firmly - and had no indication that one was popped or reset.

12v (gas) works perfectly

Your thoughts? I admit I'm a couple credits shy of my electricians license...but I think I checked everything correctly.

8 Replies

  • That was it guys. All is up and running. Thanks to those that chimed in with help!
  • Looks like it's my culprit. Bottom connection for the wire is clearly burnt out. Zero continuity. New piece inbound. Thanks guys.
  • bob213 wrote:
    Would some one please refresh my memory..Thermostat position....
    Gas left--electric right?


    Opposite

    120V AC Left........BLACK wires
    OEM Standard 130*F is 232306
    Optional 140*F is 232317

    12V DC Right........RED wires
    OEM Standard 130*F is 232282
    Optional 140*F is 232319


    IF wire to t-stat has rubbed against edge of cut-out for t-stat or if connected wire from Top (HI) to bottom (normal) is burnt into no 120V can get to element

    IF HI t-stat has tripped you can push to reset it when water temp has dropped below 110*F

    This one shows burnt connector wire on 120VA AC set
  • Would some one please refresh my memory..Thermostat position....
    Gas left--electric right?
  • 25 bucks at a real RV dealer will get you a new temp pack. Four screws to remove the cover, one screw to R&R the pack. No need to drain the water tank. Take the cover off and check for voltage across the thermal pack.