wa8yxm wrote:
salem wrote:
I have an Atwood 6 ga. water heater. It uses a plastic plug as opposed to the Suburban heaters that use an anode rod. Talking among campers this morning one guy said he uses an anode rod in his Atwood tank, "Just to be safe." I'm certainly no expert, but I've never read on these forums that this is a good idea. Do any of you do this?
Not sure if this is high school chemistry or physics but it is HS science so we should all know it,, no need for a college degree (but I got one of those too)
Every element and every metal and alloy has a "Valiance" number.. Now It has been a long time since I took the class so I'd need to research it a bit to be detailed enough but I recall what they mean
Different metals react differently.. The metal used by Suburban in their tanks is fairly reactive with most water so they use a SACRIFICIAL anode to protect it .. The metal used by Atwood is far less reactive. and thus the anode is not only not needed.... it voids the warranty.
NOTE brass will react with the metal of the Atwood tank so brass plugs ALSO void the warranty.. This is why they use Nylon.
Will a Sacrificial anode bother the Atwood.. not sure (do not think so) but it voids so don't do it.
Hummmmmmmmm.....
Brass
Atwood T&P Relief Valve is Brass.
Atwood heater element is steel
NYLON is used for drain plug for severals reasons....one being the frequency of removing/installing plug
Suburban......
They use a Steel tank that has a sprayed on glass-lining
JUST like residential water heater
Anode rod is nessecary to help keep steel tank from rusting out because glass-lining cracks & doesn't completely cover all surfaces
(I don't have a college degree---)