Forum Discussion

DarkSkySeeker's avatar
Jul 09, 2017

Water Heater Problem

I've seen plenty of reports about water heater problems, but nothing that specifically applies to my problem.

I have a 6 gallon Suburban SW6DEL heater.

My rig was purchased new in January and I have taken 7 trips with good results with the water heater until the last trip in June. The heater stopped working during the trip. By that I mean we had hot water and mid trip the heater stopped working.

When I turn the unit on by switching the rocker switch in the coach, I hear the control value solenoid click and I smell gas. Then the gas goes off. After a 10 second pause the click happens again, and I smell gas again. This happens 3 times.

I go not hear the ignitor sparking, however, I have used a wand lighter and can easily light the gas, but it only remains lit for perhaps 5 seconds and then I hear the gas control value click and the lighted gas goes out.

I have detached, crimped and reattached the electrical connections, and have depressed the rubber resets. I have also removed the ignitor and dressed the spark area hoping to allow it to do its job. I see no inline diode in the wiring as shown in a lot of the troubleshooting media.

Is the next step for me to replace the control board?
  • Check and see if an insect or dirt is in the tube. Spider webs are troublesome.

    More likely if it didn't just stop working, but checking it is "free" ;)
  • DiskDoctr wrote:
    Check and see if an insect or dirt is in the tube. Spider webs are troublesome.

    More likely if it didn't just stop working, but checking it is "free" ;)

    Thanks for the speedy reply.

    Isn't the fact that it lights with the wand lighter an indication that there are no webs? Since I do not hear the ignitor sparking, I assume there is another issue than blockage of the tube
  • DarkSkySeeker wrote:

    Is the next step for me to replace the control board?


    Am I missing something here ?
    I think the next step should be to take it back for warranty repair.

    My guess would be the igniter itself.....but why should YOU pay for this ??
  • We had a similar thing happen on our maiden trip with our 2017 TT purchased new in Nov 2016. Suburban 6 gallon also. We were in the Keys and it quit working on gas, similar to what you described, although I don't remember a gas smell. Still worked on electric.

    We took it to the dealer and the fix was a new circuit board. Sorry I don't know enough to tell you what part exactly since I did not fix it. I know that was the problem because when we picked it up I asked to review all repairs and verify they were done. At first the HWH did same as before so they had not repaired it properly ( big surprise lol ) . Two techs got on it and replaced a board in it in just a few minutes and now it works fine.

    Maybe someone here with more knowledge can tell you how to check the board out etc. Good luck
  • DarkSkySeeker wrote:
    DiskDoctr wrote:
    Check and see if an insect or dirt is in the tube. Spider webs are troublesome.

    More likely if it didn't just stop working, but checking it is "free" ;)

    Thanks for the speedy reply.

    Isn't the fact that it lights with the wand lighter an indication that there are no webs? Since I do not hear the ignitor sparking, I assume there is another issue than blockage of the tube


    Possibly.

    I recently had a similar problem with my fridge lighting. Pull the connector for the spark wire and test it like a sparkplug. I used a screwdriver, but I also slipped and got zapped. Not the first time I've been hit and certainly not the worst, LOL!

    Here's that thread: https://forums.goodsamclub.com/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/29325819.cfm

    You can see Chris' comments, which should also apply here.

    If it lights with a lighter, it's most likely the igniter.

    Edit: just re-read to see it goes out after 5 secs. Might be your thermocouple, or the tube is partly clogged and not keeping enough flame and heat on the thermocouple.

    Someone with specific info about the DHW should be along shortly, this is very basic advice ;)
  • The DC is getting thru on/off switch , thru the set of t-stats and to circuit board.
    DC is coming from circuit board to gas valve

    BUT no spark coming from spark electrode PLUS when you light it using BBQ lighter no 'proving' signal is getting back to circuit board.

    So either spark electrode is BAD OR circuit board is NOT sending high voltage DC to spark electrode thru Orange wire coming from transformer on board

    Bad spark electrode could be cause it has failed
    Could be not in correct position...MUST be engulfed in flame'
    Could be ceramic insulator is cracked.....tracking to ground'
    Could be wrong spark gap-----1/8" to 3/16"
    Could be bad high tension wire.....connection

    Circuit board is on backside of water heater tank...accessed from inside rv



    On Edit:FYI
    You have a 'odd man out' Suburban (the 'L' in model number)
    That model uses a DC on/off switch that sends DC voltage to a DC relay that triggers the 120V AC electric element (unlike the other models that send AC directly to element)

    Doesn't have anything to do with your spark electrode/circuit board issue
    Just for your info

  • Sam Spade wrote:


    Am I missing something here ?
    I think the next step should be to take it back for warranty repair.

    My guess would be the igniter itself.....but why should YOU pay for this ??


    Camping World's next weekend appointment: September.
  • DarkSkySeeker wrote:
    Sam Spade wrote:


    Am I missing something here ?
    I think the next step should be to take it back for warranty repair.

    My guess would be the igniter itself.....but why should YOU pay for this ??


    Camping World's next weekend appointment: September.


    ANY RV service facility that does Suburban warranty can fix your water heater under warranty. Odds are the Spark plug wire came OFF at the circuit board. IF it is connected, then the Spark electrode is bad. Doug
  • I caved in.

    I summoned a repair tech. He came to my address. I paid him a convenience fee to come, and he billed Suburban for the parts and labor. This was a much better situation than driving to Camping World or even to an address in nearby town since I am located in a rural area.

    He stood next to me and I showed him that the ignitor did not work. He went inside the coach, removed the board, replaced it with a new board, and it worked.

    It took more time to show him my paperwork (purchase receipt, etc) and pay the convenience fee than it did to replace the board.

    I asked him if Suburban is working on a more robust board design and he said NO.

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