UPDATE--it was the "air shutter"UPDATE 2 - replacement burner in --all fixed 8 FebUPDATE 3- Smokey exhaust 15 MarchThis is for the Atwood GH6-6E direct ignition gas only water heater in the 1991 MH.Cleaning out the gas pipes and orifice was straight forward, but I believe the gas valve part is partly clogged up from the way it acts. I can't clean it out with it closed.From the manual, it seems it has a high limit switch and ?two? gas valves. Not sure which wires are which to apply voltage to. I am thinking I can use my small 2 amp charger with its clamps that is a constant 13.4 voltageCan you keep it open with some voltage on whichever of the several wires go on it, so you can squirt mineral spirits into the inlet side and see it come out of the outlet side?some advice in here around page 24 area. http://bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/atwoodwaterheater.pdf

Likely only one valve but with two coils, needing to have both coils energized to open the valve, some sort of safety system?Maybe carb cleaner or brake parts cleaner, something you know will evaporate and not leave any residues?

I have never found the need to clean out the gas valve in my many years of service. I replace valves because they either work or they don't due to bad solenoid coils or defective valve.These are not meant to be serviceable and I wouldn't use mineral spirits.

Ex-Tech wrote:I have never found the need to clean out the gas valve in my many years of service. I replace valves because they either work or they don't due to bad solenoid coils or defective valve.These are not meant to be serviceable and I wouldn't use mineral spirits.I see in the manual linked in the OP now, that my problem might be outside the valve part maybe air amount. The flame runs ok and then goes into spasms and then runs well again keeps happening for the whole time when burner on, but it all keeps going.I have used mineral spirits to clean orifices etc with success, so I thought it would work with this too. What would you clean the pipes and orifices out with?

I would not use anything inside the valve.Have you measured resistance on the two valve coils. They should read the same or close to it.Have you cleaned out the burner tube between the orifice and the tank? I have used a shotgun cleaning brush to clean mine.

As Bud said, check the burner tube, also make sure the valve is aimed straight down the tube. The older models would get way out of line, and bending of the valve bracket was needed.

Water Heater UPDATE 3 | Good Sam Community

16 Replies

BFL13
Explorer II
Jan 29, 2019
enblethen wrote:
I would not use anything inside the valve.
Have you measured resistance on the two valve coils. They should read the same or close to it.
Have you cleaned out the burner tube between the orifice and the tank? I have used a shotgun cleaning brush to clean mine.

I have a copy of the service manual now from that link to take out there and try things. I did clean the orifice and tubes.
Chris_Bryant
Explorer II
Jan 29, 2019
As Bud said, check the burner tube, also make sure the valve is aimed straight down the tube. The older models would get way out of line, and bending of the valve bracket was needed.
enblethen
Nomad
Jan 29, 2019
I would not use anything inside the valve.
Have you measured resistance on the two valve coils. They should read the same or close to it.
Have you cleaned out the burner tube between the orifice and the tank? I have used a shotgun cleaning brush to clean mine.
BFL13
Explorer II
Jan 29, 2019
Ex-Tech wrote:
I have never found the need to clean out the gas valve in my many years of service. I replace valves because they either work or they don't due to bad solenoid coils or defective valve.
These are not meant to be serviceable and I wouldn't use mineral spirits.

I see in the manual linked in the OP now, that my problem might be outside the valve part maybe air amount. The flame runs ok and then goes into spasms and then runs well again keeps happening for the whole time when burner on, but it all keeps going.

I have used mineral spirits to clean orifices etc with success, so I thought it would work with this too. What would you clean the pipes and orifices out with?
Ex-Tech
Explorer
Jan 29, 2019
I have never found the need to clean out the gas valve in my many years of service. I replace valves because they either work or they don't due to bad solenoid coils or defective valve.
These are not meant to be serviceable and I wouldn't use mineral spirits.
GordonThree
Explorer
Jan 29, 2019
Likely only one valve but with two coils, needing to have both coils energized to open the valve, some sort of safety system?

Maybe carb cleaner or brake parts cleaner, something you know will evaporate and not leave any residues?

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Water Heater UPDATE 3

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