Hi everyone,I'm working on my very first DIY camper conversion, using a 2010 extended Ford E250.I have some questions about the clean water tank.I don't want to install a 12v level indicator, I don't remember where I saw this but I saw a picture of some sort of bypass with clear tubing, the water would rise in the tubing at the same level inside the tank. or maybe was it between the city inlet and the vent? because I'm thinking when the pump is activated it will suck air from the bypass? I have no idea lol.I also want to know how I will clean the water tank? I thought of getting my hands on a marine hatch, maybe that would work? is there a cheaper simpler way?by the way how often do you need to clean the water tank?A friend also told me I should install a bottom drain in the tank for emptying it without using the pump, is that a good idea?how and where would I add it?Thanks for any info!

The clear tubing level indicator should work fine, although you can kind of see the level of water in translucent tanks anyway - especially if you shine a flashlight into the tank near the bottom. I'm not sure if the flow rate of the pump would be enough to cause it to suck air from the bypass in general - it probably would if the tank is low. You could put the bypass between the city and gravity fill, then the pump would be out of the picture.I've never seen a tank with a cleanout hatch - most just sanitize with bleach once or so a season. If you decide to add a hatch, you'd need to position it so your arm (plus a brush?)can reach all the corners of the tank. I would definitely add a drain as your friend suggests though - it's handy and saves wear and tear on the pump at the end of a trip, plus you can just drain it onto the ground rather than filling your gray/black tanks with clean water.Good luck!CC

Yes, install a bottom drain. Add bleach to water to purify it. Air and sunlight are your enemies. I keep my tank full at all times.

Evy,Your level indicator will work, but the bottom connection should be made at the fitting you call "city fill". If you leave the bottom connection T'ed into the pump inlet, the pump will suck air with the water. Doesn't matter where on the tank the indicator connections are made so long as they are at top and bottom. The "city fill" connection should be made after the pump outlet, not into the tank. Otherwise, city water will just run out the vent.You definitely want a drain valve. I would T it with the bottom level indicator connection at the port you call "city fill"--but it looks very tight there against the wheel well. Can you move the tank an inch to the left?I've not seen an access hatch such as you show on an RV tank. Many people clean the tank by mixing a cup of bleach with a gallon of water, pouring that in the gravity fill, then filling the tank with water. Pump the solution through all lines and let set at least 4 hours. Drain, fill with fresh water, pump through all lines to flush the bleach solution. Repeat the flush at least once and preferably twice, or until the bleach odor is gone.I clean the tank once a year while de-winterizing.Joe

If you can see the tank, you can see the water level.You need a drain at the lowest point of the tank, the bottom.

beemerphile1 wrote:If you can see the tank, you can see the water level.You need a drain at the lowest point of the tank, the bottom.So under the tank right in the middle is the lowest point, but how would I have access to open the valve? my tank is installed above the insulation so if I install the valve under the van there's a chance it might freeze right?

Water tank question | Good Sam Community

42 Replies

evy
Explorer
Jun 18, 2016
The vent is also done, but the vinyl tubing is not loosing it's curve, is there a trick so it can be straighten out? hot water? heat gun?
evy
Explorer
Jun 17, 2016
Done, now for the 1/2" vent I'm guessing it's the same thing, since I can fill my tank with a bypass and water can make it's way through the vent if the tank is full, the last thing I want is to trap water by going under that 2x4, that would result in blocking the vent.
CapnCampn
Explorer III
Jun 15, 2016
I think I would lean toward not having a water trap if at all possible. You should have a constant downhill from the hatch to the tank.

I agree that drilling the 2x4 shouldn't hurt anything, the load will generally be spread around by the bed base. If you are concerned, you could reinforce the 2x4 under the hole.

CC
DrewE
Explorer II
Jun 15, 2016
I think either one would work just fine. The only concern with the U bend might be water trapped in the fill line somehow causing problems. I don't think that would actually prove troublesome, as that hose should not be harmed by having water frozen in it (the fittings on the ends are a different matter, but the hose looks plenty flexible).

The 2x4 would not be weakened enough to cause any worry by drilling through its midpoint. The strain on the beam towards the middle is lower than near an edge, of course. Most if not all commercially produced RVs us much less stout framing and they hold up well enough, so you also have a lot of margin to work with.
evy
Explorer
Jun 15, 2016
Quick question, concerning the gravity water fill, I have a 2x4 in the way, I have two options,
No.1 = go under it sort of like a P trap (easiest)
No.2 = go through it, making a 1-1/2" diam hole in the middle and weaken the 2x4
I can't go over it because this is where the bed rests
evy
Explorer
May 07, 2016
Ok so I almost bought all the equipment and tools needed to do the plumbing.

I took a decision about the water supply pipes fittings, after a lot of reading I went with the clamps (not because they are better) but because the crimping tool is small and easy to crimp in tight spaces, low price also, (33$ for the tool and clamps included) And because the clamps are easy to remove and since this is my first time doing this I will probably make a lot of errors...
This is a test I did and I was impressed, by the strength of the clamp, you can see that I removed the clamp and you can see the marks left outside and inside the pipe.

Also I'm not sure about a couple of things.

I can't seem to find the fittings to hook up the water tank, would this work? if I removed the compression nut? I need three of them.

http://www.homehardware.ca/en/rec/index.htm/Plomberie-et-%C3%A9lectricit%C3%A9/Plomberie/Aqueduc/Raccords/Laiton/Adaptateur-droit-en-laiton-plaqu%C3%A9-de-1-2-po-PEX-%C3%A0-ins%C3%A9rer-x-3-8-po-droit-%C3%A0-compression/_/N-2pqfZ67l/Ne-67n/Ntk-All_FR/R-I3298363?Ntt=1%2F2+3%2F8

Can I use a crimped clamp on a barb end?
for example : the pump barb ends

Last question, I planned on using clear vinyl tubing (before the pump) with hose clamps and crimped clamps on barb ends, and white 1/2" pex (after the pump). I'm guessing where the pipes will be pressured by the city water inlet I absolutely need pex pipes and fittings.
time2roll
Nomad
Apr 27, 2016
evy wrote:
And what's this I hear about an Accumulator tank right after the pump? Do I need one?
I recommend a small expansion tank on all closed water systems.

BTW I prefer Shark-Bite style fittings.
evy
Explorer
Apr 27, 2016
Great I will start buying the equipment.
Thanks everyone!
CapnCampn
Explorer III
Apr 27, 2016
You could certainly open the valve part way, or just watch it fill fully a couple of times to get a feel for how long it takes - then set your alarm accordingly.

I still like the idea of opening the gravity fill for insurance.

The winterizing valve is a nice touch also, I put one in my trailer for convenience.

Looks good from here!

CC
evy
Explorer
Apr 26, 2016
What if I open the by-pass valve only half way? not completely open, the pressure will be less and if it over fills it will gently make its way to vent over-spilling on the ground (if that happens) I would also have my timer buzzing every 5 minutes.

I've added a winterizing inlet, even if I have a heated garage and all the plumbing is in the heated area of the camper (above floor).
It's not like I'm adding it, I haven't started to build it yet so, it will cost 3$ more, if you guys say I might need it one day, that's good enough for me, I won't argue for 3$.

I also added two hose connections on the lowest points at the end of the plumbing lines (hot and cold), I needed to add valves anyway to drain the lines, I might as well add hose valves.