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Shacklaw's avatar
Shacklaw
Explorer
Jan 24, 2017

Weird Electrical Issue/ Need experience of RV.net

If you recall the scene from Indiana Jones where he looks into the pit and says "SNAKES, it had to be snakes"...that's me right now.

I'll try to condense-I've had this poor ol' coach for years. Last time I actually used it as a coach, I was having an issue of draining batteries and a small "shock" from the frame if you were sweaty and touched it, but it was manageable. It thereafter became the building office for our house, was taken to the lake to be the building office for the lakehouse, was brought back home and allowed to sit for a couple of years. About 5 years total. I have now decided to restore it.

I attempted to start it. No go. Fresh battery, jump box, nothing.
Changed starter. Rolled over several times, spuddered. Nada.
Check the battery drain with multimeter on amps on negative post,
23.4 amp draw with everything off. It would go to 34, then down to 10.5, then 0, then back up. Never stayed constant.

I isolated the chassis side from the coach side (as far as I can tell) Coach Batteries out, bird disconnected, etc.

All that is left is: Power cable from chassis battery to on/off solenoid, (power equal on both sides), cable to bird, bird to starter. If you don't connect the 2 cables at the bird (battery and starter) no power loss. As soon as you hook the 2 cables together (that's their normal config.) you get a 23.4 amp draw. Alternator completely disconnected. Seems to be from the cable to starter.

New Starter (same results with old, so it was good) a main cable to the solenoid, a small wire to the start pole, and a light purple heavy wire from the main cable lug up into the loom towards the dash. Best I can tell that's ALL that's hooked to the battery.

I'm stumped!!!! The light purple wire goes somewhere. I see it go into the loom, but I have yet to find it on the other side. Does it go to the ignition switch? Fuse panel? Where?

This is a lot of draw for NO FUSES being blown. I've check all fuses under the hood, nada. Out of ideas on where to look. Ignition switch? Fuel pump? What could draw that much amperage and not be easy to find? IDEAS?
  • turbojimmy wrote:
    westend wrote:
    One thing that will draw that much current is a partly shorted wire or device. The BIRD would be high on my list of suspects.


    Someone throw me a bone. What's BIRD?
    BIdirectional Relay Device
  • westend wrote:
    One thing that will draw that much current is a partly shorted wire or device. The BIRD would be high on my list of suspects.


    Someone throw me a bone. What's BIRD?

    EDIT: I looked it up. If the BIRD is still in play, then the house isn't completely isolated. I'd get to a point where you have nothing but chassis hooked up to a known good battery.
  • One thing that will draw that much current is a partly shorted wire or device. The BIRD would be high on my list of suspects.
  • Shacklaw wrote:
    This is a lot of draw for NO FUSES being blown. I've check all fuses under the hood, nada. Out of ideas on where to look. Ignition switch? Fuel pump? What could draw that much amperage and not be easy to find? IDEAS?


    That's a big draw. I would guess that there aren't many circuits protected with fuses bigger then 20A. Unless that mysterious purple wire is really big I doubt it's carrying that current.

    So where does that leave you? I don't know. What do you mean by "bird"? Are you sure the house is completely isolated? I can't think of anything on the chassis side that would draw that much. Maybe a blower motor would approach that, or old school exterior lighting. How old is the battery?
  • In almost forty years of being an electrician, unless you have a clip on ammeter, I don't think I have ever seen a multimeter than can measure that kind of amperage.

    If you have a set of jumper cables, connect the negative on the battery to a negative near the starter. If it works, you know you have to look at the negative side of things.
    If it doesn't work, take off the negative jumper and connect the positive battery post to the positive start lead on the starter. If it works, you know you have to look at the positive feed.

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