Forum Discussion
ScottG
Jul 11, 2015Nomad
Malakie wrote:
Sorry I wrote in wrong area..
Problem appears to be the compressor... Start cap did blow due to way to much power draw from a frozen compressor.
Something else to pass along as well for those not knowing this..
When you buy a new start capacitor, exact model number etc, in some cases your unit REQUIRES a bleed down resistor to be soldered into the cap. You will know if you do if the bad cap you pull has a soldered in resistor between two posts.
Your NEW caps will NOT, repeat NOT come with that resistor. You MUST add one in this case. You can try to use the one on the old cap but I recommend you spend the 5 cents and use a new one to be safe.
One other note.. After all this, I tested out the old cap and the two I bought (one for replacing and an extra just in case). AS I said, the first new one installed smoked and blew through the safety release hole as designed.
But I tested it anyway.. The old cap showed it was shorted, as expected. The new untouched cap shows resistance of about 13.5 ohms.. Now get this.. the new cap that blew ALSO still shows 13.5 ohms.. which means it is still functional and did not burn out even with the smoke and pop.
HOWEVER, you do not want to use a cap even so that has done this. It has been compromised even if it tests good. In short order, it WILL completely fail AND most likely erupt into flame. So if you ever do this, regardless of what your meter shows, if a cap pops and smokes, toss it. DO NOT USE IT.
If you have a capacitor all alone that reads a constant resistance (like 13.5) it is shorted and no good.
Now if you have a resistor across it then your not measuring the cap.
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