Well... that did not work as planned!
I have a question.. Front AC compressor was not kicking in.. Thus either the start cap is bad or the compressor died. Went with a start cap to begin with for obvious reasons. Installed it. Turned the ...
Forum Discussion
From the linked page:
"Note: Not all manufacturers use start capacitors in their units."
But they ALL use a Compressor RUN Capacitor. Usually along with a Fan Run Cap as well. Those two are usually metal and may be in a common "can." 370 or 440 VAC and around 45-mfd for compressor, 5-mfd or so for fan. Which did you replace and have explode?
Start (assist) Cap should be around 100-mfd and usually plastic. If you get that in the form of a Kit, like SUPCO SPP6e recommended here, it'll be set up to do its job safely. If you buy an open stock capacitor, not knowing the application or how to wire it, I can see where you might have problems and those are above my pay grade.
But THIS I can say emphatically: IF the RUN Cap has failed, the compressor will sit in LRA (locked rotor amps meaning it can't turn) and that will trip the compressor's internal heat protection after a number of tries.
So, IMO, without seeing it and using a meter that'll read MFD, or swapping to BOTH new RUN and Start Cap's, measuring for LRA, I can still say your compressor may not be bad.
"Note: Not all manufacturers use start capacitors in their units."
But they ALL use a Compressor RUN Capacitor. Usually along with a Fan Run Cap as well. Those two are usually metal and may be in a common "can." 370 or 440 VAC and around 45-mfd for compressor, 5-mfd or so for fan. Which did you replace and have explode?
Start (assist) Cap should be around 100-mfd and usually plastic. If you get that in the form of a Kit, like SUPCO SPP6e recommended here, it'll be set up to do its job safely. If you buy an open stock capacitor, not knowing the application or how to wire it, I can see where you might have problems and those are above my pay grade.
But THIS I can say emphatically: IF the RUN Cap has failed, the compressor will sit in LRA (locked rotor amps meaning it can't turn) and that will trip the compressor's internal heat protection after a number of tries.
So, IMO, without seeing it and using a meter that'll read MFD, or swapping to BOTH new RUN and Start Cap's, measuring for LRA, I can still say your compressor may not be bad.
