WFCO 8875 converter
It seems my converter has decided to die. Anyone know if it has internal breakers or fuses? I just found the problem a few minutes ago and can't trouble shoot for a couple of days. If I have to r...
Forum Discussion
The failure to go into Boost is not the same kind of failure as a board component burning out when it shouldn't of course.
Nevertheless, that Boost issue is a major complaint from people using WFCOs. The Boost issue is all about the WFCO's design using that 13.2v "trigger".
The WFCO needs to "see" 13.2 or less at its own terminals (not at the battery) when its 120v power is turned on in order to go into Boost.
A battery will "spike" in voltage as soon as the charger starts up and that spike will be higher with a higher initial current from the charger. You also have voltage drop between the battery bank and the charger, amount depending on the wire length, gauge, and the current amps in relation to the battery bank in AH.
Problem is, a 55 amp charger on say 220AH of battery at 50% SOC 12.2v will spike the voltage seen at the charger to above 13.2v in the usual RV set-ups.
time2roll has often suggested swapping your 55 amp for a 35 amp if you have 220AH so the spike will be less, with a chance of getting under the 13.2v trigger on start-up. Or add two more batteries.
Another way is to move the 55 amper closer to the battery bank to reduce voltage drop on the wires, and use fatter wires, so the converter will see under 13.2 at its end of the wires perhaps.
The OP's older WFCO has that jack for a booster pendant so if it all worked he would be better off for getting Boost than with a newer WFCO model when they stopped offering the pendant and just have the 13.2v trigger.
Nevertheless, that Boost issue is a major complaint from people using WFCOs. The Boost issue is all about the WFCO's design using that 13.2v "trigger".
The WFCO needs to "see" 13.2 or less at its own terminals (not at the battery) when its 120v power is turned on in order to go into Boost.
A battery will "spike" in voltage as soon as the charger starts up and that spike will be higher with a higher initial current from the charger. You also have voltage drop between the battery bank and the charger, amount depending on the wire length, gauge, and the current amps in relation to the battery bank in AH.
Problem is, a 55 amp charger on say 220AH of battery at 50% SOC 12.2v will spike the voltage seen at the charger to above 13.2v in the usual RV set-ups.
time2roll has often suggested swapping your 55 amp for a 35 amp if you have 220AH so the spike will be less, with a chance of getting under the 13.2v trigger on start-up. Or add two more batteries.
Another way is to move the 55 amper closer to the battery bank to reduce voltage drop on the wires, and use fatter wires, so the converter will see under 13.2 at its end of the wires perhaps.
The OP's older WFCO has that jack for a booster pendant so if it all worked he would be better off for getting Boost than with a newer WFCO model when they stopped offering the pendant and just have the 13.2v trigger.
