My gal has got herself a 2010 Jayco x17z hybrid RV. From what I could find, it comes with an IOTA 45 amp converter/charger. We will be doing some dry camping and running the generator (2000w inverter style) for a short period of time during the day to recharge the battery. The battery that was on the RV had a broken case (I think maybe it froze and split) so I am replacing it with a Group 31 to get the most aH out of a single battery. What I'd like to know is what is the charging like from a 45 amp IOTA converter charger from 2010? Is it based on time? Does it sense voltage of the battery and adjust the charge accordingly? I went to the IOTA website, but all they have is info on their current products, and I don't know how much they have changed (if at all). What I want to avoid is an undercharged or overcharged (boiled) battery.

Look for a phone type jack socket. If it has one, you can plug in the jack that comes with that IOTA to make it go to a higher charging voltage (but still in the low 14s) To go back to 13.6, remove the jack. Or you can get the IQ4 to plug in there, which makes it a typical three-stage converter. (Recommended)Without the jack, it is just a single stage 13.6v converter and will be very slow to do a recharge (which is not good when using a generator)Some Jayco RVs with IOTAs back when, did not have the jack at all and were straight 13.6v.

Phone jack? Get the IQ controller. Excellent converter.No phone jack as many OEM's are? :( just a 13.6v fixed power supply. Actually I have read where these can be modified to add the jack. Need to contact IOTA and have some electronics skill.

I think the set voltage is 14.4 You are unlikely to boil the batteryRecharge time will depend on how much power you use When the generator is offOne of the $30 eBay amp meters is a good idea, to install to monitor the recharge amps

No matter what is said...No matter what is read...The end result is not predictable. To do whatever it takes to get charging voltage as high as is limited, is to do all that you can.Go camping.Note deficiencies. Return then deal with your style of camping.Do this. Buy a GOOD hand held digital multi meter and take it along. As things happen, takes notes. Voltage readings. Forget everything else except generator run time.You leave with a full battery.You rise and shine the first boondock morning. What is the battery voltage? Write it down.You run the generator for whatever time you think is best then shut it off. What is the battery voltage at point of generator shutdown?Resume camping.An hour later take another battery voltage reading. Write it down.The next morning, take another voltage reading after breakfast.If the battery gets too discharged, you'll be the first to know. You will be starting the generator to recharge. Note the voltage and the total run time to do your best guess to recharge.Return home with all the notes. Post them. They are vital meaning indispensable clues. They reveal exactly any weak points in system design and configuration (and generator operation).I refer to this as basis system status. From this point you can plan and build. Or not.

I have some concern because I know that the RV forced air furnace takes ~11 to 13 amps to run, and I imagine when camping in a HTT in the Canadian Rockies, where it can get to the single digit temps (Celcius) or into the 30s F, the furnace will run quite a bit. I'll check for the phone jack hole on it, and if it has that I will buy the gizmo that allows for better charging. Other than that, I will take along my multi-meter and take a few readings. In my previous RVs, I could usually tell the condition of the battery when I woke up and heard the speed of the furnace fan LOL.

What can you tell me about my converter/charger?

15 Replies

thestoloffs
Explorer
Apr 22, 2017
But, even the DLS-45/IQ4 can still boil out and literally blow up a pair of 12VDC batteries, if you don't perform proper maintenance. (Hard-earned experience, while staying at the same park for 9 months)
ib516
Explorer II
Apr 21, 2017
Thanks Dick
dclark1946
Explorer
Apr 21, 2017
If you have not already purchased your battery consider a Trojan SCS Gr 31. That series batteries are heavier, better quality and have more capacity compared to generic 12V deep cycles. We do fine with a single SCS 200 Gr 27 and run our vent fan all night when dry camping. Do daily morning charges and monitor voltage and charge current. Been doing this for years.
ib516
Explorer II
Apr 19, 2017
wa8yxm wrote:
First the IOTA with IQ-4 is a top tier converter.. The only one better, and this is ONLY if you know how to take advantage of it is the Progressive Dyanmics with dongle.. And as I said that is ONLY if you know how to use the dongle.

A single Group 31 is about 130 AH at the C/20 rate. proper maximum charge is thus about 40 amnps (39 to be precise) so your 45 Amp is ideal

A better battery choice if you can fit them.. BIG IF THERE, is a pair of GC-2 Golf car batteries in sereies 220 AH at 12 volt (C20 rate) give or take a bit.

But right now you are as good as it gets with a single easily installed battery.

Excellent info. Thank you.
ib516
Explorer II
Apr 19, 2017
theoldwizard1 wrote:

Well, start with finding the exact model number on the charger !

I will be doing that as soon as we actually get our hands on the unit. Right now all I have is model number and year. I've seen it once to evaluate it's overall condition.
theoldwizard1
Explorer II
Apr 18, 2017
ib516 wrote:
What I'd like to know is what is the charging like from a 45 amp IOTA converter charger from 2010? Is it based on time? Does it sense voltage of the battery and adjust the charge accordingly? I went to the IOTA website, but all they have is info on their current products, and I don't know how much they have changed (if at all). What I want to avoid is an undercharged or overcharged (boiled) battery.

Well, start with finding the exact model number on the charger !

From the website, only the "DLS-45/IQ4 features an internal IQ4 Smart Charge Controller which automatically provides four-stage battery charging for safer charging and longer life for your system's battery." Whether this can be retrofitted or not is a different question.

Second, make sure you a buying a true deep cycle battery ! Not a car/truck battery and not a dual purpose marine battery. The reason many people use 6V golf cart batteries is they ARE true deep cycle batteries and they are relatively easy to find.
wa8yxm
Explorer III
Apr 18, 2017
First the IOTA with IQ-4 is a top tier converter.. The only one better, and this is ONLY if you know how to take advantage of it is the Progressive Dyanmics with dongle.. And as I said that is ONLY if you know how to use the dongle.

A single Group 31 is about 130 AH at the C/20 rate. proper maximum charge is thus about 40 amnps (39 to be precise) so your 45 Amp is ideal

A better battery choice if you can fit them.. BIG IF THERE, is a pair of GC-2 Golf car batteries in sereies 220 AH at 12 volt (C20 rate) give or take a bit.

But right now you are as good as it gets with a single easily installed battery.
azrving
Explorer
Apr 18, 2017
In those temps you may not make it through the night. If you are noticing things like fan speed dropping off you may be running the battery too low. Many people will recharge and stay above 12 volts or so. Although it's a 12 volt battery your operating voltage range is about 12 to 12.6 or 12.7. When it goes into float it will be about 13.2. You may do well by using a hydrometer to verify your battery condition until you get the hang of things. An hydrometer is the final word.
RedRocket204
Explorer
Apr 18, 2017
Also, don't forget your generator is also going to be down on power dependent on what altitude you are at when you're in the Canadian Rockies. This will negatively impact the time required for the gen to be on charging your batteries. So any guessing by those at sea level will be quite off.
ib516
Explorer II
Apr 18, 2017
Oh, and I'm also swapping all the bulbs to LEDs with a 20 pack from Amazon.