Hi all, Tried searching a little bit but never any luck on my exact question.Little background. My wife and I inherited an old travel trailer from her parents. We are wel on the way to having the roof fixed (materials are on the way), and replacement of the four original tires and the spare should be done with today. It’s a 2003 Model Aljo by Skyline. For the last five years it’s been lived in on and off and basically hasn’t moved. So I’m getting it so I can really use it and tow it wherever I want.Firstly, plain and simple, is there any way to repack my old wheel bearings so that I don’t damage them and can reuse them? Secondly, wether or not I can repack the ones that are already on it, how can I tell what wheel bearings it uses? Everything seems old and I have no idea where to find that info, other than to tell you that it’s a five lug axle with 14” wheels. This trailer has two. GVWR is 6,xxx. It’s south of 7000 I believe, but could be wrong (at work and can’t verify).But I’d like to keep a couple extra sets of wheel bearings with me on trips for just in case. Don’t want to be that guy that has to leave his trailer on the side of the road to go to an auto parts store that’s hopefully open.Lastly, what kind of grease do you recommend I use? Just anything general lubricant fine, such as Chevron or Napa brand?Thanks

Your way over thinking this,....repack the bearings and you good to go !

On the bearing itself is usually a number. You should be able to use that number to cross it over to a new bearing part number.Also check the spindle for any damage such as serious grooves or burned areas.Others should chime in soon with more info.

also change the grease seal on the back of the hub assemble , amd buy timken roller bearings.

sounds like you,ve never changed a set of bearings? theres more to it. you have to change the steel race the bearing sits in, or you,ll ruin your new bearings. bearing and race have to match so they wear the same as time goes on. race has to be pressed out .and new pressed in. some people use a hammer and a punch.,,,there called back yard mechanics .

careful on the "Timkens". I bought into them once and it was a timken box and the bearings had made in China stamped on them, just saying.So why replace the bearings if the originals show no need such as wear or peening. You may just be throwing good ones in the scrap and **** shooting new ones in there. :hsurely you tube has a bunch of videos on R&R. also i think etrailer.com may.you also should use grease that is specked for the application.

Wheel bearings | Good Sam Community

time2roll
Nomad
Jul 18, 2019
These bearings are old school basic line work. If you have done them before you will find nothing new today. Any auto parts store should have the bearings if replacement is needed. If the new kid is confused holler back for the old guy to match them up. I use Mobil 1 synthetic grease for the highest dropping point specification.

For parts, video and advice look to etrailer.com
wnjj
Explorer II
Jul 19, 2019
Ron3rd wrote:
You can also tap in the new race using the old race.

I've used the old one but first took the outside of the old one to a grinder to slightly reduce the diameter.
RJsfishin
Explorer
Jul 19, 2019
No one has mentioned the bearing races that CANNOT be removed w/ a punch or any kind of special tool. I'm not sure, but I believe they are disposable hubs that the races were never meant to be removed. But some disagree, and do remove them, using a mig welder, and believe it or not it works very well. I run into that type only 1 time, and took it uptown to a shop, and there is where I learned to "weld" them out,.....which means to weld a continuous bead on the inside serface of the race, and when it even starts to cool, the race falls right out !
JRscooby
Explorer II
Jul 19, 2019
When you get the numbers, buy a extra set to carry. And I keep extra seals on hand. When decide to pack my bearings, I know I can put one wheel back on. If the bearings on the first wheel, I still have parts to do the next. When I am packing bearings for myself, I pack a extra set, and store them in the grease tup in the storage area with tools. If I ever need to change in emergency that time consuming part is done.
BTW, for the cost of a seal, why take a chance the reused one will fail?
ChuckSteed
Explorer
Jul 19, 2019
Yup use a brass drift and hammer to remove the races. I’d pull them, clean
And inspect and if they look good then use them. NAPA will have what you need for parts in most cases.

Block of wood to square races when driving back in and brass drift to fully seat them. All the tools you will need. Old school time tested method that works just fine today

Or you could go spend the bucks and buy a set of bearing drivers but no
Need if care is exercised.
72cougarxr7
Explorer
Jul 20, 2019
I agree with the advice to document the part numbers off the bearings and seals for future reference. If there are no numbers on the seal, a good parts store or bearing house can figure that out by measuring them.
Your bearings are most likely able to be cleaned and repacked as long as the races and rollers arent chipped, gouged or blued from overheating.
My local Napa and Auto Value store have been able to cross reference the numbers off my bearings, to the brand they sell. They are typically going to be pretty standard bearings, if they dont stock them, they can get next day from the reigonal warehouse.

On grease, these trailer axles arent super picky.
I like Amsoil synthetic grease, but any decent name brand wheel bearing grease should give you good service.

Be careful when you are installing the castle nut. You dont want it to tight or it will cause the bearings to overheat and gall. The procedure I have always used is to snug the nut with a wrench while spinning the hub, then back it off and retighten by hand. If you are in between slots for the cotter pin, back the nut off to the next slot.
I usually go for a 5 or 10 mile drive, and jack each wheel up and check for excess play, you should feel just a slight bit of play when you rock the wheel from side to side.

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