which inverter and why? 3000 watt pure sine wave
Hi, I'm considering upgrading the MSW 2500 watt inverter. Which 3000 watt (12 volt input) inverter would you pick and why?
Forum Discussion
Hi mytime,
I had (when new) 875 amp-hours of 12 volt marine batteries to draw on. I can recharge at (observed numbers) 60 amps via alternator, 35 via converter, and 16 amps via solar. My air conditioner draws about 1200 watts (transliterates into 120 dc amps). If I drop out the converter, that still allows me a lot of run time before the battery bank is depleted. I do have manual control over the alternator charging circuits so I can turn them off should they start exceeding 60 amps.
I have been experimenting with the water heater which happens to draw the same amount of energy as the roof air. So far I have not exceeded 60 amps from the alternator which is rated at 130 amps.
I can successfully run the roof air from the existing system--but I'm not "happy" with running it from an MSW inverter.
The air conditioner will cycle when the dash air is operating, but the dash air eventually "looses the battle" to keep the living quarters of the RV at a comfortable temperature. I want to arrive at camping (boondocking) locations with the rear at about 23 C (73 F).
On my most recent trip I had to run the genny for 25 hours at a cost of $59.00 for fuel and $7.00 for oil. Over 1/2 the time I was rolling down the road so I think I can save about 50% of the genny run time.
If I stop where there is modest shore power I can still run the converter full blast to replace the energy from the battery bank, and if not I can run the genny to replace the amp-hours used.
I had (when new) 875 amp-hours of 12 volt marine batteries to draw on. I can recharge at (observed numbers) 60 amps via alternator, 35 via converter, and 16 amps via solar. My air conditioner draws about 1200 watts (transliterates into 120 dc amps). If I drop out the converter, that still allows me a lot of run time before the battery bank is depleted. I do have manual control over the alternator charging circuits so I can turn them off should they start exceeding 60 amps.
I have been experimenting with the water heater which happens to draw the same amount of energy as the roof air. So far I have not exceeded 60 amps from the alternator which is rated at 130 amps.
I can successfully run the roof air from the existing system--but I'm not "happy" with running it from an MSW inverter.
The air conditioner will cycle when the dash air is operating, but the dash air eventually "looses the battle" to keep the living quarters of the RV at a comfortable temperature. I want to arrive at camping (boondocking) locations with the rear at about 23 C (73 F).
On my most recent trip I had to run the genny for 25 hours at a cost of $59.00 for fuel and $7.00 for oil. Over 1/2 the time I was rolling down the road so I think I can save about 50% of the genny run time.
If I stop where there is modest shore power I can still run the converter full blast to replace the energy from the battery bank, and if not I can run the genny to replace the amp-hours used.
mytime wrote:
I think the first answer would be how many and what type bstteties you plan to use., don't think you willget much AC use on 2 batteries.
