(EDIT -- as you will see below, silicone is wrong. But keep reading for other great suggestions!!)DW and I just finished re-installing our new front window, using butyl tape. Everything went fine -- no problems.My searches of the archives show that most folks recommend sealing with silicone caulk around the top and 5 inches on the sides, after trimming off the excess butyl. They say don't go too far down the sides with the silicone -- better to let the water drain. That makes sense to me.So this is my question - exactly which of the many silicone caulks will do the best job? Also, I have a caulking gun, but I am thinking that a big tube of caulk would be overkill.Thanks in advance for your recommendations!

I would give the tape a couple of days to squeeze out fully before caulking. If the design allows a white caulk, you might consider Geocel Proflex (RV), which is well respected, and preferred by many over silicone. If you want a clear silicone, then I've always had good success with GE Silicon II Window and Door.

Sika Flex 505 with UV protectant works very well. Available at camping world or online. It's a high quality sealant and don't mildew like cheaper caulk.Tip: Use windex or soapy water, dip finger and smooth the bead. It's a very tacky caulk and takes a little finess at first but is extremely durable.

Proflex RV clear is what we used on a replacement window.

Good advice above...from wrgrs50s and Nutinelse2do .I sure would not use silicone..

The putty turns black and ugly around the exposed edges. So does the usual silicone get ugly after a while, and it can't be cleaned back to white with anything.I agree with waiting till the putty settles, then scrape it back and use that stuff mentioned above that supposedly (many claims for that--not always correct "depending") it does not turn black after a while. We get a lot of mould here over the wet winter, but other places it might not be so bad. Bleach is the usual cure, but it has no effect on silicone where the mould is underneath it.

Which type of NON-silicone for caulking after installing window?

19 Replies

MEXICOWANDERER
Explorer
Jul 18, 2017
profdant139 wrote:
After a fair amount of fumbling around on the web and the forum archives, I think I am going to go with Lexel. I just talked to one of their techs, read the product brochure carefully, did some checking of the reviews, google blah blah blah etc., and it looks promising. It dries clear (not very important to me), it remains flexible (good), it is UV resistant (very good), and it does not peel off (really good, if it is true).

I will report back in a few days, maybe in a new thread.

Please do :)

This is of substantial interest to me. Thank you.
Bobbo
Explorer II
Jul 18, 2017
I just use Dicor. Either self-leveling or non self-leveling as needed. I sleep better at night.
profdant139
Explorer II
Jul 17, 2017
After a fair amount of fumbling around on the web and the forum archives, I think I am going to go with Lexel. I just talked to one of their techs, read the product brochure carefully, did some checking of the reviews, google blah blah blah etc., and it looks promising. It dries clear (not very important to me), it remains flexible (good), it is UV resistant (very good), and it does not peel off (really good, if it is true).

I will report back in a few days, maybe in a new thread.
profdant139
Explorer II
Jul 17, 2017
Well, I was all set to use the Kwik Seal, but the online reviews are really bad. (Most of them from contractors, and there are a lot of bad reviews, not just a few random grumps.) I will re-think.
BFL13
Explorer II
Jul 17, 2017
BFL13 wrote:
dougrainer wrote:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/DAP-Kwik-Seal-Plus-10-1-oz-Kitchen-and-Bath-Adhesive-Caulk-with-Microban-18516/100163430

We use this.
1. It comes out white to verify you have all cracks and nooks covered.
2. Dries so clear you cannot believe it is installed
3. Adheres to Glass/Fiberglass/ Plastic, almost all things except EPDM roofs.
4. Like others we NEVER use silicone. Doug

It says there it is siliconized. What does that mean?

OK it means silicone is added to whatever. In this link they even call their siliconized product silicone.

http://www.tecspecialty.com/products/caulks/siliconized-caulk/?lang=English

Doug says they stuff he uses is a good product, but it seems that it must still count as silicone of some sort.
mike-s
Explorer
Jul 17, 2017
Dave H M wrote:
What i would do also. Don't knock the GE stuff if you have not tried it. SILICON - now I feel better.
LOL. I guess I get an "E" for spelling.
BFL13
Explorer II
Jul 17, 2017
dougrainer wrote:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/DAP-Kwik-Seal-Plus-10-1-oz-Kitchen-and-Bath-Adhesive-Caulk-with-Microban-18516/100163430

We use this.
1. It comes out white to verify you have all cracks and nooks covered.
2. Dries so clear you cannot believe it is installed
3. Adheres to Glass/Fiberglass/ Plastic, almost all things except EPDM roofs.
4. Like others we NEVER use silicone. Doug

It says there it is siliconized. What does that mean?
Dave_H_M
Explorer II
Jul 17, 2017
mike-s wrote:
I would give the tape a couple of days to squeeze out fully before caulking.

If the design allows a white caulk, you might consider Geocel Proflex (RV), which is well respected, and preferred by many over silicone. If you want a clear silicone, then I've always had good success with GE Silicon II Window and Door.

What i would do also. Don't knock the GE stuff if you have not tried it. SILICON - now I feel better.

However i highly recommend that you don't use it as you will sleep better that way. :W
profdant139
Explorer II
Jul 17, 2017
Great tips, and really fast!! Thanks.
dougrainer
Nomad
Jul 17, 2017
http://www.homedepot.com/p/DAP-Kwik-Seal-Plus-10-1-oz-Kitchen-and-Bath-Adhesive-Caulk-with-Microban-18516/100163430

We use this.
1. It comes out white to verify you have all cracks and nooks covered.
2. Dries so clear you cannot believe it is installed
3. Adheres to Glass/Fiberglass/ Plastic, almost all things except EPDM roofs.
4. Like others we NEVER use silicone. Doug