Will my WFCO 55 amp over charge?

The parasitic load in most RV's is enough to keep the WFCO from going into float. I have swapped several WFCO's over the years. They are most times difficult to make them go into Boost mode. When I put one on my boat batteries with no parasitic load, it goes into float (13.2V) after a day or 2. the difference float (13.2) and bulk (13.6) is huge! At 13.6, you need to be checking your water levels monthly.

philh wrote:

Grit dog wrote:
And I haven't really pulled it apart and looked at what it would take to replace. I know it's not just a standalone unit like in our old campers.

I replaced just the convertor charger unit. Drop in repleacement

Good to know, thanks

My WFCO charger boiled my battery dry. To keep batteries charged during storage I use a BatteryMINDer charger-maintainer-desulfator. That has worked well for years.

Grit dog wrote:
And I haven't really pulled it apart and looked at what it would take to replace. I know it's not just a standalone unit like in our old campers.

I replaced just the convertor charger unit. Drop in repleacement

Gdetrailer wrote:

philh wrote:

Gdetrailer wrote:
WFCO converters use a voltage and current sense along with timers, if too much current is being drawn during storage and the voltage is low enough over a specified time limit it will never go into storage mode (13.2V)

And yet when I replaced the POS WFCO, my problems went away.

They are well known for never going into bulk charge and not cycling storage. They are cheap junk POS.

:R

And yet, I did mention different converters handle some conditions better than others and some not as good.

I am merely telling you what the problem is and how you can adjust or correct the issue.

You could have saved yourself a lot of expense just by increasing the wire size (which is what others with same WFCO converters have reported on this forum). New wire is far, far cheaper than replacing a converter.

While I have a PD I would not be afraid of WFCO if I had one, just takes a WILLINGNESS to learn what the reasons are as to why it does or does not do and how to correct. You sir, most definitely are unwilling to learn :h

I'll trade you your PD for my WFCO then!
FWIW, after 2 campers with PD converters, I was surprised with our new camper with a WFCO that it never seemed to fully charge the batteries.
Although I have left it plugged in 24-7 and now after most of a year, still haven't needed to add water.
Last year camping I was ready to yard the wfco out and replace it, but I think it's a whole integrated fuse panel/converter. And I haven't really pulled it apart and looked at what it would take to replace. I know it's not just a standalone unit like in our old campers.

If you are not checking the Battery/s weekly or cannot, using the standard Power Converter will boil batteries dry within a few months. Of course AGM's do not have that problem, but standard PC's are not the best to use with AGM's or Lithium. The BEST way is to fully charge the battery bank and disconnect the Negative cable, leaving the RV NOT connected to 120. A LOT of battery disconnects do NOT completely remove all 12 volt appliances from the battery. So, it is better to disconnect the neg cables from the batteries. Also, if subfreezing temps are expected, better to have the batteries in a garage and not subjected to those temps. If for some reason the batteries go dead, freezing will crack the battery case. Doug

PS, YES, WFCO ARE JUNK. I WOULD NEVER UTILIZE A WFCO. I WOULD REPLACE WITH A GOOD POWER CONVERTER. Wfco products are all knock offs of USA built and designed products, all built in China.

philh wrote:
wfco chargers are POS and known for boiling batteries dry and/or never going into bulk charge mode.

According to the history in our Victron 712, our WFCO decided to charge our AGM batteries at 21 volts. After much surfing I found a couple of others who also had their WFCO charge at high voltage. When I replaced the batteries they were bulged at the sides. I replaced that WFCO with a free one from another camper who had his sitting after replacing it with a LiFePO4 charger.

I now have both reverse polarity fuses pulled, since we have no problem keeping our SiO2 batteries full with our solar and have been charging solar only since last February. How did I know to pull the reverse polarity fuses? Answer: because our batteries are not the only batteries a WFCO has ruined, and those other owners don't trust their WFCO either.

Enjoy,

Perry

Duplicate Post. Sorry!

philh wrote:

Gdetrailer wrote:
WFCO converters use a voltage and current sense along with timers, if too much current is being drawn during storage and the voltage is low enough over a specified time limit it will never go into storage mode (13.2V)

And yet when I replaced the POS WFCO, my problems went away.

They are well known for never going into bulk charge and not cycling storage. They are cheap junk POS.

:R

And yet, I did mention different converters handle some conditions better than others and some not as good.

I am merely telling you what the problem is and how you can adjust or correct the issue.

You could have saved yourself a lot of expense just by increasing the wire size (which is what others with same WFCO converters have reported on this forum). New wire is far, far cheaper than replacing a converter.

While I have a PD I would not be afraid of WFCO if I had one, just takes a WILLINGNESS to learn what the reasons are as to why it does or does not do and how to correct. You sir, most definitely are unwilling to learn :h

Gdetrailer wrote:
WFCO converters use a voltage and current sense along with timers, if too much current is being drawn during storage and the voltage is low enough over a specified time limit it will never go into storage mode (13.2V)

And yet when I replaced the POS WFCO, my problems went away.

They are well known for never going into bulk charge and not cycling storage. They are cheap junk POS.