Winterizing Questions

Don't forget the outside shower and black tank flush lines if equipped.

Good questions! I worried about each one of them my first time.

I use the pink antifreeze with a Tee on the inlet to the pump. I turn the T valve to suck antifreeze out of the jug (used to have to prime that short length of tubing with a syrup bottle filled with antifreeze but a new pump membrane draws it right out of the jug).

After pumping pink through all the taps, and toilet, I very carefully open the city water inlet cap a wee bit until pink stuff begins to come out. Opening it wide with the pump on blows the check valve.

I shut off the pump, then open a pipe joint to let air into the tube going down to the tank underneath, which makes the water fall down into the tank under the floor.

The freshwater drain is another concern for me, as it is the point most vulnerable to freezing on my RV. I have a plastic tube on the tap which makes a very reliable indicator of water level. With the tank empty as I can get it by draining, I fill that tube with antifreeze and open the tap so it flows into the tap and low point inside the tank. I try to put about a cup full in. There may be a little ice in the tank but the tap has never cracked.

I actually thought a winterizing kit was pretty much standard now. Every RV I've owned 2007, 2010 and 2013 model years has had a factory installed winterizing valve.

RLS7201 wrote:

GordonThree wrote:
if you don't put any in the fresh tank, how do you get AF into the pump and strainer?

You install a winterizing kit.

+1 on the winterizing kit. Winnebago installed one on my rig at the factory, but it would be simple to retrofit if your manufacturer did not. Well worth the expense and effort.

Cut the water line between the fresh water tank and the water pump. Install a water heater bypass valve, with a 3 foot(ish) long water line attached. Put the new water line down into the antifreeze bottle, and the water pump will draw from the bottle rather than from the water tank.

Any water left in the water line between the fresh water tank and the water pump will be inconsequential.

GordonThree wrote:
if you don't put any in the fresh tank, how do you get AF into the pump and strainer?

You install a winterizing kit.

if you don't put any in the fresh tank, how do you get AF into the pump and strainer?

don't put antifreeze in the fresh tank, not necessary (assuming you have a winterizing kit)

- the line from fresh tank to pump will drain back into the fresh tank
- to get antifreeze into the city water inlet you need to release the one way valve, there's a little button there behind the screen. Make sure you do it without pressure. ie crack a tap, then hold button while someone turns pump on... it will shoot a/f out so watch for that.

you can always go to a harbor freight store and buy a hand pump to back pump anti freeze into the water system through the kitchen sink

If you can't blow out, gravity drain as best you can, then a gallon or two of the pink/red non-toxic antifreeze (ethanol or PROPYLENE not ethylene glycol based) in the fresh tank, and run the pump until it comes out the various taps (hot and cold). Run enough to fill the traps in the sink/tub, and don't forget the toilet. Next, remove the drain on your hot water heater and you're done.

Antifreeze does freeze (or at least turn to slush) but it doesn't expand like water, so it won't bust your fittings.

When I drain my system, the city water to the water heater will gravity out. After gravity draining my fresh water tank (on an angle), I will turn on the pump until no more water spits out a tap.