Would Mercury Quicksilver grease work in my wheel bearings?

time2roll wrote:

albow wrote:
Wait, be careful with the zerk? Why? What do you mean?

Very easy to push grease past the grease seal onto the brake shoes.

You want to jack up each wheel so it can be slowly spun by hand as you are adding grease. This distributes the grease so it doesn't just push past the grease seal.

I'm not sure on this question. IT looks like wheel bearing grease is a higher temp grease than those containing lithium. However, it seems marine grease contains lithium. My question is, What about the wheel bearings on the boat trailer? Seems like it would need lithium.

down home wrote:
I don't have the nae handy but it's about 10.00 a tube. Kinda green color Lithium complex two and you cannot wash the stuff off.
I've used a variety of greases all seemed to do ok.
Only thing I have to grease ow are zero turn mowers.
The Dixie Chopper has blade spindles the size of trailer axles even fans to cool them.
The Snapper uses the same grease and now is 13 years old and blade speed is tremendous. No bearing failures.
We had a 24 ft boat trailer, that we had to replace the bearing once. Not sure the grease was the problem bad Chinese bearings. I used the then new Mobil One synthetic grease.
I would just buy the best available, at the parts store. I have read probably most of what they put on the net about greases and which is best, which they never seem able to reveal.
Lithium is put in grease to adsorb some bit of moisture rather than have drops of it running around in bearings.
Pain in the .... to repack bearings by hand every so often. Most don't need it except recommended time is same time of brake service.
Our Fifth Wheel had no lube axles, thank goodness.
I use a laser aimed remote heat gun all the time whenever we stop for fuel on tires and axle bearing areas, just in case.

I did that this last time. What temps are you supposed to see?

Whatever kind of grease you use, stay away from clay based cheap grease. Clay base greases tend to harden over time and fail to provide adequate lubrication.

If the Mercury grease meets the requirements listed by Dexter Axlefor hub bearing service you are good to go.
Dexter grease specs and approved list is at the link:
http://www.dexteraxle.com/docs/default-source/default-document-library/light-duty-hubs-drums-and-bearings0b9b809d2ba463c18d7aff64007a4014.pdf?sfvrsn=0

Personally, I use Lucas Red-n-Tacky for wheel bearings and chassis lube, plus other general uses. Lucas Xtra grease is also a good multiple application grease.

I don't have the nae handy but it's about 10.00 a tube. Kinda green color Lithium complex two and you cannot wash the stuff off.
I've used a variety of greases all seemed to do ok.
Only thing I have to grease ow are zero turn mowers.
The Dixie Chopper has blade spindles the size of trailer axles even fans to cool them.
The Snapper uses the same grease and now is 13 years old and blade speed is tremendous. No bearing failures.
We had a 24 ft boat trailer, that we had to replace the bearing once. Not sure the grease was the problem bad Chinese bearings. I used the then new Mobil One synthetic grease.
I would just buy the best available, at the parts store. I have read probably most of what they put on the net about greases and which is best, which they never seem able to reveal.
Lithium is put in grease to adsorb some bit of moisture rather than have drops of it running around in bearings.
Pain in the .... to repack bearings by hand every so often. Most don't need it except recommended time is same time of brake service.
Our Fifth Wheel had no lube axles, thank goodness.
I use a laser aimed remote heat gun all the time whenever we stop for fuel on tires and axle bearing areas, just in case.

I grease everything with the same grease, from the lawnmower to my pickup (yes, it has numerous grease fittings) to the farm tractors to the implements to the roller nose on my chainsaws and everything in between, except wheel bearings. Those get packed and repacked with wheel bearing grease. I buy my grease in 150 pound open headed barrels and pump it with a Lincoln air driven grease pump with a 100 foot grease hose. I use synthetic grease exclusively. It's expensive but worth it and I use a lot of grease annually. About one drum a year.

I have 1 MH 1 boat trailer 1 ATV trailer 1 utility trailer, and it all gets 1 hi temp grease out of 1 grease gun. If you think you need anything else, keep fooling yourself,.....I'm sure this isn't the only thing you have wasted money on.

fj12ryder wrote:

hypoxia wrote:

bob213 wrote:
I have multiple grease guns for boat, cars and trailer. I use this cheap engraver for the ones that I know will remain constant.
Engraver

The engraver is also useful for removing studs and bolts that are frozen or with the head broke off. Use it before resorting to an easy out.

Please elaborate on that, I certainly don't see how it would do anything. That little vibrating tip wouldn't do much to a bolt that was really stuck.

You sure about that? Give it a try the next time. It's not a cure all but works and is worth a try. It's easier than a punch or chisel to work it out.

I keep several grease guns in a plastic bucket, it can be difficult to keep track of them.

albow wrote:
IT's what is currently in my grease gun and we know what a mess it is to change a non-empty cartridge. I don't know my axle brand. I have electric brakes. I assume about any type would be suitable for a short time frame if you then pushed it on out with the proper grease, but is the grease I'm considering appropriate for the long term? I have zerk fittings, not re-doing the bearings.

Buy yourself a tub of wheel bearing grease at Autozone... Issue solved