Yes it's my own D***N fault
First part of this was posted Sunday on the "What Did You Do to Your Class A MH Today" Forum. Not really asking for help. Sympathy maybe. Just really a comment. Perhaps someone will learn something...
Forum Discussion
It's like a prize fight where one boxer takes it on the chin and falls flat on his face.
"Well, the fight's over" you think.
However the bell sounds, and the woozy boxer wobbles to his corner and the trainer and cut doctor go to work...
The boxer arises, hobbles across the ring, and knocks the opponent through the ropes.
I agree with niner. Then, do a full hydrometer test, and if the batteries pass that, connect the 12 cells in series and apply a 500 ampere load test for twenty seconds (5-more seconds than the standard 15-second load test).
If the batteries pass it serves to prove the point that golf car batteries are not just a fad or buzz fashion. The fat plates and extra acid do things for a living.
Take another dip a month before you come down and if the cells are happy campers, then you can rely on the batteries for full-duty for a long Mexico sojourn.
Be vigilant to detect the presence of cloudy gray or red tinted electrolyte while dipping. The electrolyte must be crystal clear. But give the batteries 15-minutes to settle the sediment if you really rock them with a mega charge. Electrolyte can gas saturate after hard charging which makes it look white cloudy. Not a bad sign. But smoky or red tinted electrolyte is a death knell.
My weak-sister cell (A) recovered after 630 amp hours of top-charging. .330" plates are awesome. I could not disconnect cell A to cell B strap, so cell B got a whipping even though it was innocent.
You paid a premium for GC batteries. And now, you may find out how deep runs your wisdom.
"Well, the fight's over" you think.
However the bell sounds, and the woozy boxer wobbles to his corner and the trainer and cut doctor go to work...
The boxer arises, hobbles across the ring, and knocks the opponent through the ropes.
I agree with niner. Then, do a full hydrometer test, and if the batteries pass that, connect the 12 cells in series and apply a 500 ampere load test for twenty seconds (5-more seconds than the standard 15-second load test).
If the batteries pass it serves to prove the point that golf car batteries are not just a fad or buzz fashion. The fat plates and extra acid do things for a living.
Take another dip a month before you come down and if the cells are happy campers, then you can rely on the batteries for full-duty for a long Mexico sojourn.
Be vigilant to detect the presence of cloudy gray or red tinted electrolyte while dipping. The electrolyte must be crystal clear. But give the batteries 15-minutes to settle the sediment if you really rock them with a mega charge. Electrolyte can gas saturate after hard charging which makes it look white cloudy. Not a bad sign. But smoky or red tinted electrolyte is a death knell.
My weak-sister cell (A) recovered after 630 amp hours of top-charging. .330" plates are awesome. I could not disconnect cell A to cell B strap, so cell B got a whipping even though it was innocent.
You paid a premium for GC batteries. And now, you may find out how deep runs your wisdom.
