yet another door look bites the dust

Mine broke too. They build these things with cheap plastic inside to make sure they can keep selling locks. I just bought a keyless. Haven't replaced it yet.

pianotuna wrote:
Hi,

Does anyone have a source for a trimark all steel lock?

As far as I know Tri-mark does not make one

Seneca Engineering, A Machinist shop in Seneca, SC. made me a handful of Solid and I mean SOLID steel striker bolts for my Tri-Mark Basement locks.. Door locks are the same design but smaller bolts.

He can duplicate if you an send him the pieces. 40 bucks then likely 50-60 now.

Anyone who hasn’t had a RV door lock break likely doesn’t understand how flawed of a design in general they are when it comes to being able to disassemble when the door and screen are shut.
Got a funny story about that, that if not for a couple guys who are adept at fixing most anything, would have just resulted in smashing it open and dealing with the aftermath.

Deleted

I got mine from General RV. but.....

What breaks normally is the striker bolt. the highest stress point on the bolt is also the weakest and they make 'em out of ... **** metal (Pot metal). I took the pieces to a metal smith (Machinest) and had him carve me a new one out of steel. 40 bucks. did a fantastic job.. soak it in oil (or boil in oil) for a bit then install... That did NOT break. Note DOOR and "Basement" are same design but different sizes... I can point you to a repair tech with a few basement bolts. (4 or 5 I forget which)( but she's in Florida this time of year.

Ed_Gee wrote:


I wish you had specified what Trimark lock. If its the T507 common to so many class C RVs, like mine, Did your latch bolt break? Its cheap pot metal. There's a guy who sells repair kit, easy to do, with a beautifully crafted stainless steel latch bolt replacement. I can vouch for this.

Yeah I remembered that repair kit,got it saved somewhere..Ahh here it is.

https://www.latchfix.com/

I have replaced mine twice over the years when they broke and the third time, I made a steel backing plate to join the two pieces of the zinc alloy striker bar that broke. It has held up well. Someone posted on here a while back about a new lock that he thought was steel but could not verify that it was. This alloy which some call pot metal is brittle and soft, it is cast and not forged or drawn like steel making it much weaker. You need to take it part to see what is actually broken. It could also be the plastic cam inside that moves the sticker bar.

pianotuna wrote:
Hi,

Does anyone have a source for a trimark all steel lock?

It's a good thing I'm in a class C. Being locked in is not much fun.

I wish you had specified what Trimark lock. If its the T507 common to so many class C RVs, like mine, Did your latch bolt break? Its cheap pot metal. There's a guy who sells repair kit, easy to do, with a beautifully crafted stainless steel latch bolt replacement. I can vouch for this.

Hi,

As we get to -40 I do not want an electric lock of any kind.

ronharmless wrote:
Clicky

Good idea. But a screw driver bit and a 1/4" wrench fits in smaller areas.

Richard