Looking for some advice. I just bought a used 26‑ft travel trailer. I’m an experienced tower and previously had a 30‑ft trailer with no issues. This smaller trailer sways on the highway, even after I adjusted the hitch. The hitch that came with the camper uses chains, and I’ve already checked the usual things like tongue weight. What are your opinions on switching to a Husky hitch with stabilizer bars?
Also make sure the trailer is level to very slightly nose down when running down the road. Nose up will also cause sway.
Even if the tires are fully inflated, some are softer side walled than other, this can cause issues. OR they may even be overloaded for capacity. Or heaven forbid, someone put P=Metric tires on it vs ST or LT rated tires.
Since you said it was bought used......if the axels are V'd, that will cause sway as the axles with try to turn on you.
Look at the weights side to side. Too big of a difference in weight on one side will cause those tires to have a smaller loaded diam, also cause a trailer to want to turn similar to the v's axles. My states laws say no more than 500 lbs side to side difference when loaded or you are overweight, finable and they can make you move items from one side to the other to make it so there is less than 500 lbs per side difference.
Movement side to side IIRC is 12 or 18", you will get a red tag no more driving down the road until the sway part is stopped.
I am of the opinion; ANY trailer should be able to be towed without sway bars at legal driving speeds. Which to me is 60-65 mph. Granted some states, not many allow up to 70+, most are 60 or below towing speed limited. Then put the antisway bars on for added protection. Don't do JUST the bars, Hensley hitch etc to stop the sway, your trailer still wants to sway, so solve the reason(s) that have been mentioned which is the root cause of the symptom, ie sway is the symptom! not the cause.
My 02 for what it is worth.
Marty
I’ve never heard of a hitch with stabilizer bars, a link to what you are describing would be helpful. Anyways, for a 26-foot trailer, a weight distribution hitch and sway control would be highly recommended (maybe less so if you are pulling with a F350/3500 truck). As previously pointed out, the percentage of hitch weight and total loaded trailer weight is critical. That along with info about the tow vehicle would be absolutely necessary for us to know in order to help you out.
Hi, the tow vehicle is a 2015 GMC Yukon.
stabalizer or equalizer bars? equalizer bars don't do anything for sway, maybe make it a little less just because of the added tension, but they are generaly the solution for porposing.
generaly, sway comes from improper loading of the trailer, hitch to light. when you say you checked the hitch weight, what percentage of it is of the total rv weight, and was the trailer loaded for camping? you want it to be a minimum of 10% and preferably up to 15%. so that means if your rv is 8000lbs ( loaded full of water) you want that hitch weight to be a minimum of 800lbs and up to 1200lbs idealy. if you measured when you were empty the hitch weight most likely changed when you got it loaded up. there are other things that can cause it also, suspension worn out, very strong winds, tires underinflated, hitch not adjusted properly, excessive speed and vehicle wheelbase to short to control the rv. the hitch weight and tire inflation are the easiest ones to start with.
