Forum Discussion
I wouldn't see an issue. you shoot for 10% hitch weight on a travel trailer so that would be 900lbs as for how well it will pull it I can't answer that, but Grit Dog did
10% is bare minimum. 12-15% is a better goal. Higher is even better but quickly becomes impractical.
- StirCrazyApr 11, 2025Moderator
I would beg to differ, the real only reason for the 10% is to stop instability issues that are usually sway. a light nose will sway but at less than 10% that is gone, that's why the recommended load is 10% for a travel trailer. do we usually end up with more, because we love to throw extra batteries on the front. probably for the last 41 years I have been shooting for 10% got there a few times but I am normally at 11 %. is there any harm in going for more, nope but its not needed, once your over 10% the stability issues are generally done, unless you have something else going on.
- valhalla360Apr 11, 2025Navigator
I've known people who are right around 10% and have sway issues. At 10% it's hit and miss. I see this as the cause of a lot of folks buying a lot of extra anti-sway equipment.
Also, if right on the edge, if you have a full rear tank or otherwise shift some weight to the rear, it's easy to drop below. Shooting for 12-15% if some weight gets moved back, you should still be fine.
- StirCrazyApr 12, 2025Moderator
I've known people who are right around 10% and have sway issues. At 10% it's hit and miss. I see this as the cause of a lot of folks buying a lot of extra anti-sway equipment.
at that point it becomes mechanical issues not loading. alignment, tow vehicle just to light for the rv, towing with the front of the rv to high, and so on, or its cross wind and now sway at all. yes shooting a little over is fine also, but weight moving is really a small change unless its a large weight from one end to the other. we can make hypotheticals all day, the recommended trailer loading by every manufacture has always been 10% front, yes as a minimum. exceeding that if you don't have any sway is pointless and even if you do encounter sway at 10% it will be very, very minor and most won't even notice it.. the sway we are talking about removing is from a 0% to -% hitch weight.
I had to move a small trailer once that I had to push the hitch down to hook it up that was a ugly slow ride.
then my first camper in the early 80's was a old chalet style tent trailer, it was pretty much a neutral weight and the first trip with my 77 Camaro tow vehicle (haha) was pretty ugly but I added weight by putting an extra propane tank and moving the batteries from inside to the a frame and it calmed it down at about 8% weight. 10% is generally considered the "safe %" but yes if you have other issues going on you may need more. but stating to go to 15% right off the bat isn't realistic as a lot of units will never get there unless you buy a 400 lb generator and put it up front. most water tanks are right beside the axels so weather they are full or empty is a minimal change. my 5th for example the fresh water tank is a little more forward the black and main grey are right at the axel and the second grey is just a little behind it so the fresh is the only one that changes anything and it isn't that much, I think I get about a 1 or 2% change from all front tanks full and rear empty to the other way around.
also it may cause some one to have to buy a new truck they didn't have to. I agree if you are buying a new truck anyways buy the biggest that will work for you, but if you already have the truck if you stay in that 10% hitch weight then you should be fine. if not and you have a slight sway then it could be wind like I mentioned, an alignment issue, a leveling issue or such.. yes a sway control will take care of these issues but aside from he wind the others can be fixed. I have never used sway control myself.. I think people jump off the deep end and get it when most of the time it is the gusting side winds or uneven roads causing the feeling of sway.
- Grit_dogApr 10, 2025Navigator
Yet the tongue weight is not highly adjustable, short of loading some more crap in the front of the camper if that makes sense.
That’s why wdhs become so popular imo.
Some are light and need sway control. Some are heavy and need weight distribution. And some are just fine without towing aids.
The bigger factor is many don’t understand this and assume they need wdh and sway control automatically.
OP with the capability of your truck, unless it’s light and prone to sway, you don’t need any towing crutches for the trucks sake.- valhalla360Apr 10, 2025Navigator
To get 2-5% more, it's very much adjustable on most trailers. A 100lb generator on the rack on the rear bumper moved to a rack on the A frame, will add about 200lb to the hitch weight...or about 2% more.
With a little planning, put canned goods and other heavy items toward the front and light stuff like comforters in rear storage cabinets. You can also, look at where the tanks are. A full tank can easily be 300-400lb. Keep the ones behind the axles empty or minimally filled and if the fresh tank is at the front, consider running with a bit more water.