THANK YOU for even more great info.! I will address in Red below
AnEv942 wrote:
The solar, unless its factory installed and someone may know more definitively how its wired (though no telling what PO might have done)
no need to pull battery(s) to check. No idea what your controller has, meter or just lights. Disconnect shore, check battery voltage. Run a fan some lights etc for a while. Solar should go to charge mode. I would check voltage out put of controller, then check at battery-should see same voltage, turn off battery cut-off, voltage should drop to standing battery voltage (not show charge input) if solar is wired thru cut off. As most controllers have an off switch-I dont know why panels would be thru main cut off though. Sounds like a plan! I'll check it out. P.S. the sales invoice for the unit says "Pre-wired" for solar. and the dealer installed the panel at purchase. So it sounds like the solar goes into it's own "controller" / voltage regulator deal and then is hard wired straight into the batteries, right? So even with the shut off switch in OFF, the solar would still keep the batteries topped off?
As to the 3way refer, and the inverter Im not quite clear. It sounds as though the inverter (12v DC to 110 AC) is wired to run the refer AC receptacle? Not common but some folks do. If thats the case the refer would be set to AC. Also, if refer is plugged into receptacle thats powered by inverter means even on shore or generator, the inverter needs to be on, unless theres another actual AC receptacle.
I think I screwed up on this. What I "thought" was an inverter now appears to be my "master power box"? It is called "Inteli Power 9100" model PD9140A I don't see any on/off switch on it though? So now I think I realize I don't have an inverter at all! I'm either shore power, 12V DC or generator? Is this pretty standard?
To use on directly on 12v DC the inverter wouldn't be used. If refer is set to DC it would be drawing directly off the battery(s) not thru inverter. Your 3663 will draw a little over 17amps in DC mode. Most trucks wont supply that and still charge batteries, So even driving its slowly drawing down batteries. You have solar input helping-but it takes a lot of diligence to use the DC mode in factory (truck charge) configuration. IE turning OFF refer when stopped-period even a few minutes. Turning off least an hour or so before arriving destination allowing battery(s) to charge etc. That said, assuming you precool the refer before a trip as already mentioned it will stay cold(ish) minimum for several hours.
All good points and makes total sense, thank you! Yes I do "pre-cool" so as long as it's a short trip (no stops) and I'm going to a place with shore power, looks like I can just put on DC til I get there, or run the LP or just close it up and leave it off. Good options, thanks!
Because of your curiosity and 'want to know' I recommend buying (or find a Harbor Freight "free" coupon for their $5 one) an inexpensive digital multi meter if you dont have one. Set to 20+ on the DC volt scale it will tell you exactly what you want to know on the 12v circuits. Test light would only tell you power present not if 12.2v and dropping or 13.6 & rising.
Set to 200+ on the ACv scale you can test the receptacles/inverter output-though for most all you want to know if power present and not looking at actual voltage so a AC test light (or portable power tool etc) would be sufficient on the AC stuff.
Hahaha, I JUST got that exact one, FOR FREE, from Harbor freight! Thanks again, I will run through some of these checks!
THANKS!
