04-05 Ford Excursion diesel towing?
Anyone tow with a 04-05 Excursion diesel? Have you had any problems with the 6.0 engine, front end, brakes, electrical, trans, 4x4 system or any other issues? I am looking into buying a low mileage Ex...
Forum Discussion
To the OP while I have only owned a 00 Ex and a 03 Ex from my experience and the forums some of the areas that might need attention and are known to wear/need attention/checking
Non engine: ball joints, shocks, steering box (wandering), leaking EFOF systems (4x4), stuck front hubs (non use), maybe front u joints, axle seals, drive shaft clunk from lack of lube, door lock actuators (can stick), rear hatch lock mechanism (can stick), rear hatch struts (weak upgrade with longer ones), etc.
Some complain about the stock soft suspension (hits bump stops) and do a V/modified B spring swap or a X/modified B spring swap off of F250/350 or some just use longer shackles to gain suspension height and preserve stock ride.
6.0L engine wise: dirty/wrong coolant (clogged oil cooler leading to EGR cooler failure then HG failure), also sand casting left from block formation that can clog oil cooler(mult flushes and/or coolant filters). Most recommend either using Ford Gold (w/distilled H20) and religiously check and flush at scheduled intervals or flush several times with water and use an approved ELC coolant w/distilled H20 that last 300K+ miles.
Cold start issues from bad injectors (dirty fuel, low lubricity) or stiction (oil quality, newer FICM flash addresses problem), EGR valve coking up or stuck, VGT vanes sticking (too much idling), glow plugs/modules, FICM failures from weak solder joints that can fail under heat/vibration and/or weak batteries/alt, underperforming FICM also gives cold start/drivability problems and leads to premature injector failure.
HPOP failures (03-04 poor design), hot start issues caused by high pressure oil leaks on because of STC fitting, stand pipes and dummy plugs used on 05 and up
Fan clutch (expensive), various harnesses (chaffing or oil contamination), IPR and ICP sensors (cause no start/drivability problems), ruptured or missing oil screen (allowing junk to go into HPOP/inj) intercooler boots, radiators (leak at seams), degas bottle (weak cap and/or cracked bottle).
As one said earlier not the best vehicle to buy "as is" then jump on an across country trip. Will cost $$$ to upgrade but is an efficient/strong/quieter engine, strong stock trans (5/6 sp auto) and only diesel suv unless you go with a Duraburb (Suburban 2500 with Duramax/Allison combo).
https://sites.google.com/a/duraburb.com/duraburb/
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UCmONI_sanE
but might have problems with local emission inspectors explaining why the gas engine sounds like a diesel :-)
Non engine: ball joints, shocks, steering box (wandering), leaking EFOF systems (4x4), stuck front hubs (non use), maybe front u joints, axle seals, drive shaft clunk from lack of lube, door lock actuators (can stick), rear hatch lock mechanism (can stick), rear hatch struts (weak upgrade with longer ones), etc.
Some complain about the stock soft suspension (hits bump stops) and do a V/modified B spring swap or a X/modified B spring swap off of F250/350 or some just use longer shackles to gain suspension height and preserve stock ride.
6.0L engine wise: dirty/wrong coolant (clogged oil cooler leading to EGR cooler failure then HG failure), also sand casting left from block formation that can clog oil cooler(mult flushes and/or coolant filters). Most recommend either using Ford Gold (w/distilled H20) and religiously check and flush at scheduled intervals or flush several times with water and use an approved ELC coolant w/distilled H20 that last 300K+ miles.
Cold start issues from bad injectors (dirty fuel, low lubricity) or stiction (oil quality, newer FICM flash addresses problem), EGR valve coking up or stuck, VGT vanes sticking (too much idling), glow plugs/modules, FICM failures from weak solder joints that can fail under heat/vibration and/or weak batteries/alt, underperforming FICM also gives cold start/drivability problems and leads to premature injector failure.
HPOP failures (03-04 poor design), hot start issues caused by high pressure oil leaks on because of STC fitting, stand pipes and dummy plugs used on 05 and up
Fan clutch (expensive), various harnesses (chaffing or oil contamination), IPR and ICP sensors (cause no start/drivability problems), ruptured or missing oil screen (allowing junk to go into HPOP/inj) intercooler boots, radiators (leak at seams), degas bottle (weak cap and/or cracked bottle).
As one said earlier not the best vehicle to buy "as is" then jump on an across country trip. Will cost $$$ to upgrade but is an efficient/strong/quieter engine, strong stock trans (5/6 sp auto) and only diesel suv unless you go with a Duraburb (Suburban 2500 with Duramax/Allison combo).
https://sites.google.com/a/duraburb.com/duraburb/
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UCmONI_sanE
but might have problems with local emission inspectors explaining why the gas engine sounds like a diesel :-)
