05 Arctic Fox Cold weather capabilities?

We have used our Lance 4-season camper in subfreezing weather for weeks at a time and the only freezing we have encountered was in the fresh water line where the water froze in the water pump after several days of 10 degree weather (day highs in the teens and low 20's). We might have avoided the freezing of the water in the pump by having a trickle of water in the bathroom sink so the pump would kick on periodically and bring in warmer water from the freshwater tank.

Camped last November for 5 days in 0 at night to 20 above during the day. I had to run the Honda2000 on the fourth day to recharge batteries, and burned just over 1 tank of propane. No issues other than some condensation after cooking.
I did push the slide in while we were away to reduce the heated area.

kerry/insp, I now realize no ducting into the basement. I was skeptical of that claim since the furnace is in the slider. Makes sense now. Seems like adding a fan and powering it up separate from the furnace is the ticket.
Looks like I got a few things to do.
Have had a blast snow camping in the past with friends in their campers. Of course it was really cold and we ran the campers dry only, but definatley want to have some water use capabilites with the family.
Thanks again for the tips.

Grit dog wrote:
Thanks for all the replies.
I heard the heater vents into the basement. Will verify that and look at provisions for any lines that seem like they may be unprotected or not receive any heat.
So no problem driving with the furnace and water heater on? I know the fridge will stay lit so presume the rest will.
Good points about insulation around the slider too.
Thanks, ill start diggin into it this fall.

Furnace does not actually vent into the basement in any AF. Some of the different manufacturers do run a direct heat duct into the basement. Thats still the better system. AF uses a small computer fan to draw warm cabin air into and thru the basement. Fan only comes on when the furnace is running, although I as well as a few others have installed a double pole switch so the fan can be turned on with or without the furnace running. If Im parked and have full hookups I use an electric baseboard heater and I can still run the basement fan to keep heat circulated around the tanks.

A few years back someone documented extensive winter mod to his 1140/1150, I'll try and find it as I'd like to see it again myself. Any way there were lots of photos and not surprising lots of room for improvement. Would love to have the time to do some of those things, in the meantime come freezing temps I do spend the time to meticulously seal all the windows and skylights with the shrink on window film...poor mans insulated windows! Just about eliminates the condensation issues which we all know too well.

Thanks for all the replies.
I heard the heater vents into the basement. Will verify that and look at provisions for any lines that seem like they may be unprotected or not receive any heat.
So no problem driving with the furnace and water heater on? I know the fridge will stay lit so presume the rest will.
Good points about insulation around the slider too.
Thanks, ill start diggin into it this fall.

I was getting ready to recommend some of the mods I did to my AF 1150 but bobndot beat me to posting my link.

A couple real easy and inexpensive things you could do is add another basement fan in the front and plug any skylight and AC holes in the roof. You'll need a fan to remove moisture so don't plug everything but a lot of heat is lost through all the roof holes.

With the mods I did I was able to use it last winter with my onboard water systems at -20 F and didn't have any freeze ups. You should be fine down to 0 without much effort, you'll just need to start out with full propane tanks and run your furnace while driving or else you'll end up like the people Super_Dave mentioned.

I always travelled in the winter with the heater set to low and the extra basement fans turned on. Here is a trip I did 2 winters ago to Grand Teton Park in February. About a 120 mile drive there and nothing froze but the cap to the sewer drain. Jackson Lake

GD , my 05 AF worked ok with water to single digits but did not push it to zero. Keep a hair dryer handy to thaw a dump valve or line.
Wrap the change-over valve to prevent it from freezing, if it does...you loose your heat. The diaphram can freeze and possibly crack.
I had the thermostat up high and it ran 24/7, only to reach an interior warmth of 65F at best.

If you have the slide "out" and it snows, you need to clear it before you close it . Those slideouts have very little insulation if any at all, therefore you'll be warmer keeping it closed at night.

Every tc made can be a little different so i would follow the water lines throughout the tc and make sure none are touching an outside or uninsulated wall, be careful to protect the water pump, if its mounted to an outside wall in an uninsulated cabinet.

There is a bathroom/basement fan modification to pull heated room air down into the basement, it makes the fan more efficient by moving it an inch or so , so it makes a better seal to move air.

MY AF slideout did not seal well on the inside. I noticed it when i pet my dog in the morning. He was sleeping on the floor and his fur was COLD ! (that explains why i got dirty looks from him)
I bent down and looked under the slide bottom (from inside the camper) and i could see a large gap that revealed the underside of the slide. I filled the gap with foam and a towel and that helped a lot. After that i would pull the slide in at night and that helped keep things a bit warmer.
I would use storm windows and also drape the door with an insulated drape panel. Those rv doors leak air. I hang the drape on a rod above my door.
I made an insulated storm window for the emergency window. I made it out of solid foam, two layers with a cut out , to see out. The port hole to see outside was heat shrink insulation used for covering windows. Its just held in place by pressure between the handles.
window insulation mod.


My AF used a lot of gas. 30# gas bottle in 3 days in -25F temps (i camped with it dry,no water).
My personal experience with the AF as i took it apart to make various repairs....they could use some insulation upgrades. To be honest, i was a little shocked to find what i saw.

Here is some VG AF info. by one of our members.
http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/24714539.cfm

Have fun, Bob

As other posts have said, good batteries, full propane, access to electric and or generator.The heater will run...a lot, a small electric heater helps out here if you can plug in. We've traveled watered up at 10 degrees +\- without trouble but you need to be vigilant, set the thermostat for adequate heat, water heater on and go. I do carry RV antifreeze and am ready to winterize whenever. Colder than 0 and I'm leaving our camper dry, yet still comfortably warm. Enjoy your Arctic Fox, we love ours

It takes a pretty special camper to be able to handle sustained freezing temps like that and I don't think that an Arctic Fox will be that special. At some point, tanks, lines or both will likely freeze. I've talked to folks that have driven from Colorado to New Mexico in winter and everything froze solid while in transit.