07 F-150 trans fault

Indeed, and let's you monitor most engine parameters in real time. I use mine daily!

gijoecam wrote:
Get yourself an ELM-27 OBD-2 bluetooth adapter off NewEgg or Amazon and spend the $6 for the Torque app for a smart-phone or tablet (assuming you have one, of course...) You can monitor the trans temps and check the code yourself when the light comes on and know with confidence what's triggering it. You can also monitor the torque converter slippage to help determine if that's happening/getting worse with time. (My guess is that it is) I've been watching mine for this issue for a while now (and I'm happy to report I've not experienced it thus far)

That looks very interesting! So, I plug it into the truck and it reads computer parameters via bluetooth to my Android phone? Do I have that correct? Sounds pretty sweet!

Mosseater, I posted earlier on this thread about the trans codes not being stored. That is what the Ford dealer told me. However, last Friday my Ford left me on the side of the road, and I had it towed to a really good small private transmission shop in the area. They were able to read the codes. I guess my Ford dealer was not on the ball. Sorry about the incorrect information.

Get yourself an ELM-27 OBD-2 bluetooth adapter off NewEgg or Amazon and spend the $6 for the Torque app for a smart-phone or tablet (assuming you have one, of course...) You can monitor the trans temps and check the code yourself when the light comes on and know with confidence what's triggering it. You can also monitor the torque converter slippage to help determine if that's happening/getting worse with time. (My guess is that it is) I've been watching mine for this issue for a while now (and I'm happy to report I've not experienced it thus far)

If it only does it when towing hot n heavy then it IS a heat issue, not a random short. Sounds like the TC is not locking up when it should or completely.
Have you marked the rpms at particular speeds driving empty to compare to rpms when you're pulling hot uphill?

Bump to the top for those who wanted to know.

Took it to the trans shop today and they checked it out. Talked to the owner, who was at least 70, been in trans business probably since auto trans was "new". He was explaining things in detail way over my head, but the summation was that unless we can get it to go into fault and stay there, and unless we can drop the pan with certainty as to what we're looking for, I need to keep driving it until either something definitive happens, or my wallet gets to fat. At this point, there's nothing wrong that they can see and it's probably pointless to tear it apart until there is.

He did bring up the same code my other mechanic found and said he's seen solenoid wires crack or break which might cause the intermittant issue I'm seeing. I was curious to know why, if that was the case, doesn't it do it at other times during normal driving? Only when I'm pulling the trailer up a hill and running it hard. He said hard to know. Could be the solenoid isn't flowing enough of a leak during normal driving to show a code. He claims it won't hurt anything by driving it the way it is even if the code comes on.

For now, if the code comes up and stays up, then bring it in. Otherwise, don't worry about it. AND, the visit today was FOC! Even though I'd like to find the problem and get it fixed, this at least gave me a level of peace of mind. Maybe it'll never come up again. Maybe it'll puke parts all over the pavement next week. I'm done worrying about it in any case, for now.

Quick up date. I took the truck to my buddy's garage and he was able to bring up a code #P1744 "torque converter clutch system performance". When I Googled that code it shows that the converter clutch solenoid valve may be hanging up not allowing the converter to lock in fully, which created more heat. Im not going to type in the entire text, but if you folks want to know, just Google the code. It wasn't hard to find.

Tomorrow I'm taking it to a local reputable trans shop and he's going to take a look. Hopefully this problem won't be too devastating to the pocketbook. I towed locally this weekend and the alarm didn't come up so I have a feeling it's intermittant. When I spoke to the guy at the trans shop he seemed to feel the flush fluid changes can be detrimental because it can distribute magnetic wear particles through the trans to places they wouldn't normally be,(like clutch solenoid valves?) so maybe I've been doing myself an injustice by trying to keep up with more regular fluid changes.

I'll post tomorrow's results later.

Mark Kovalsky wrote:

mosseater wrote:
OH, great! Not too convenient to reroute my camping trip to the nearest Ford dealer and let it idle while they find time to help.

Why would you have to leave it idle? When the light is on a code is stored in the computer. It will stay in memory for about a month after the last time it flashed. If they tell you they can't read it when the light isn't on, they are right, they can't. A competent tech can, but they can't.

mosseater wrote:
On a brighter note, I found several references to the same fault display and one guy who had his fixed. Turned out to be a temp sensor in the pan. Unfortunately, they dropped my pan and changed the filter when they did the last trans service. Hate to go back in just for a sensor. If I can find out which one and where, I might give it a go myself. After that spark plug fiasco, this should be a breeze.

You're going to start changing parts based on what was wrong with somebody else's vehicle? Good luck. There are at least 50 different reasons that the light could be on. You could spend thousands in replacing good parts before you get lucky and change the right one. Get the codes read and then I can help you find out EXACTLY what's wrong.

Actually, no, though I can see why you thought that by my wording. I've been in maintenance and repair for most of my career, so conspiciously absent in my response was the inference that I would need to know with at least probable certainty, which sensor and where before I go about changing it. That was the "if I can find out which one and where" portion of the sentence. I'm not a parts replacer. Never have been. Now, OTOH, if the probable cause points to a particular part with relative certainty, and the cost of absoulute confirmation will outweigh the cost of the part, then yes, maybe I'll be a "parts changer" in that scenario. Depends on the part and difficulty of replacement. I have worked with parts changers. Am not one. That's not trouble shooting and many times does not define the root cause of the problem. That is a road to expensive disappointment. Sorry for the confusion.

mosseater wrote:
OH, great! Not too convenient to reroute my camping trip to the nearest Ford dealer and let it idle while they find time to help.

Why would you have to leave it idle? When the light is on a code is stored in the computer. It will stay in memory for about a month after the last time it flashed. If they tell you they can't read it when the light isn't on, they are right, they can't. A competent tech can, but they can't.

mosseater wrote:
On a brighter note, I found several references to the same fault display and one guy who had his fixed. Turned out to be a temp sensor in the pan. Unfortunately, they dropped my pan and changed the filter when they did the last trans service. Hate to go back in just for a sensor. If I can find out which one and where, I might give it a go myself. After that spark plug fiasco, this should be a breeze.

You're going to start changing parts based on what was wrong with somebody else's vehicle? Good luck. There are at least 50 different reasons that the light could be on. You could spend thousands in replacing good parts before you get lucky and change the right one. Get the codes read and then I can help you find out EXACTLY what's wrong.

First, congrats on the 8.2K half ton...a very rare truck

7 lugs to differentiate from a 'normal half ton' (6 lugs) and a 3/4 ton (8 lugs)

You do need to find the root cause and fix that

250*F at the side of the pan says inside the tranny has the ATF much higher and
most likely why it set the code.

Again, suggest you find the root cause.

Maybe partial blockage of the run to the main radiator, or to the external ATF
cooler (they should be series)

Gotta find these things based on this indicator of potential failure out in the
boonies...