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holliwood's avatar
holliwood
Explorer
Jan 06, 2017

08 Rockwood Roo Hot Water Heater Question.....

Ok guys, those of you that have Roos; I just got ours and was told you should drain the water heater during winter, so I took a look at it, but I'm not sure what plug is the drain. I don't know if the previous owner has ever done this, so with possible 20 degree weather hitting us this weekend, I figured this would be a good idea. Anyone know what plug it is? I assume its the big rusty one at the bottom middle?

https://www.dropbox.com/s/7xsuymxfvv7rfn5/Photo%20Jan%2005%2C%205%2008%2044%20PM.jpg?dl=0
  • garyemunson's avatar
    garyemunson
    Explorer II
    Jan 06, 2017
    Yup, that's the one. I'd suggest you replace it with a new nylon one like used on newer water heaters. Have fun breaking that one loose. You might want to carefully heat it with a propane torch to help break it free.
  • enblethen's avatar
    enblethen
    Nomad
    Jan 06, 2017
    That appears to be a Suburban water heater.
    The bottom rusty thing is an anode/plug assembly.
    It could be hard to remove with out proper sized socket, breaker bar and a six foot cheater.
  • Old-Biscuit's avatar
    Old-Biscuit
    Explorer III
    Jan 06, 2017
    You have a SUBURBAN water heater

    It uses an 3/4" NPT 'anode rod' that screws into the drain hole (Atwood uses the 1/2" Nylon plug)

    Tank is Steel GLASS-LINED tank
    DO NOT use external heat or go hammering on tank.

    Drain anode rod hex head requires a 1 1/16" socket (6 point best)
    Along with a 6 1/2" extension
    1/2" drive and breaker bar

    Try to tighten plug a bit at first then unscrew

    (Water supply off....pressure relieved !!)
  • llowllms's avatar
    llowllms
    Explorer
    Jan 06, 2017
    Old-Biscuit wrote:
    You have a SUBURBAN water heater

    It uses an 3/4" NPT 'anode rod' that screws into the drain hole (Atwood uses the 1/2" Nylon plug)

    Tank is Steel GLASS-LINED tank
    DO NOT use external heat or go hammering on tank.

    Drain anode rod hex head requires a 1 1/16" socket (6 point best)
    Along with a 6 1/2" extension
    1/2" drive and breaker bar

    Try to tighten plug a bit at first then unscrew

    (Water supply off....pressure relieved !!)


    That's the trick all right. Relieve the pressure through the relief valve but leave all faucets closed. Once loosened it would be a good idea to stand to stand to one side while removing.
  • PenMan's avatar
    PenMan
    Explorer
    Jan 06, 2017
    llowllms wrote:
    Old-Biscuit wrote:
    You have a SUBURBAN water heater

    It uses an 3/4" NPT 'anode rod' that screws into the drain hole (Atwood uses the 1/2" Nylon plug)

    Tank is Steel GLASS-LINED tank
    DO NOT use external heat or go hammering on tank.

    Drain anode rod hex head requires a 1 1/16" socket (6 point best)
    Along with a 6 1/2" extension
    1/2" drive and breaker bar

    Try to tighten plug a bit at first then unscrew

    (Water supply off....pressure relieved !!)


    That's the trick all right. Relieve the pressure through the relief valve but leave all faucets closed. Once loosened it would be a good idea to stand to stand to one side while removing.


    You will definitely want to stand to the side as you remove the anode rod. ;)
  • holliwood's avatar
    holliwood
    Explorer
    Jan 26, 2017
    Thanks everyone. I ended up bringing it home a couple weekends ago and going through somethings. I got the anode out with the socket. It was hard to break loose, but I got it. And, as I expected, it was eaten completely down to the little center rod. So, a couple clicks on Amazon and I had a new one 2 days later for $9 (free shipping) :) Thanks AMAZON PRIME! ;)
  • Chuck_S's avatar
    Chuck_S
    Explorer
    Feb 12, 2017
    Don't wait until spring to put the anode back in the tank. The bung is iron and will rust over the winter and it will be very difficult in the sprig.

    -- Chuck

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