Brettmm92 wrote:
Are you saying that welders used to run off batteries? And because batteries ran welders there's a potential risk of batteries malfunctioning and expelling that much energy? Is there an easy fuse or breaker setup that won't take any cutting up a wire? Like one that goes from the end of the charge controller wire and bolts to the battery? I'm wanting to not splice or cut up wires if theres another way.
And I was thinking having a setup of panels that lay flat on the roof but could be adjusted to around 45 degrees when no longer traveling to get better direct hit of sunlight would be superior even though it adds an extra thing to set up.
And would the batteries I plan to buy between 300 and 400$ for two high quality GC 6 volts be worth all that money? They are still lead acid and need to have maintenance but I could get three 12 volt 27DC batteries from wally world for cheaper than that (slightly over 300 with core charge). But everything I read seems to point out GC batteries being superior.
Walmart Battery
It IS possible to arc weld using nothing but "car" batteries, however, not a safe or recommended thing to do. Basically takes about 24V-36V open circuit voltage to get enough current to make a half decent field repair welding bead. Would I bet my life on it? No. But in a pinch it could be done..

Welding from battery comes with some inherent risks which could cause your battery to explode.. After all stick welding is nothing more than SHORTING the battery posts together if you think about it.
As far as the battery you linked, that is a "combo" RV/Marine battery, while it could be made to work, ONE pair of 6V GC batteries will supply the SAME capacity as three of those group 27 batteries.
You also DO NOT NEED to pay a premium price for supposed "HIGH QUALITY" GC2 batteries. That is plain foolish to spend anywhere near $400 for ONE PAIR of GC2 batteries. You get only 10Ahr-15Ahr more in the $400 set vs a $200 set. That is very little "gain" for a whole lot more money. That will net you maybe an additional 1 or 2 hrs of use.
The more expensive batteries you are typically prepaying for the additional warranty period and nothing more.
The other thing is since this is your first time camping and camping without commercial power, $400 is a lot of money on the line to waste if you kill the batteries on the first time out.. You may want to go with the lower cost GC2 batteries and see how well that works for you.
For $400 I would rather buy two sets of lower priced GC2 batteries and get a lot more capacity than one set of "high PRICED" GC2s.
In other words, the $90 Sams batteries I linked give about 215Ar, two pairs of those gives 430Ahr.
The $400 pair of "high quality" GC2s gives you 235Ahr..
Which setup do you think will last longer?
My bet is on the two sets of lower cost GC2s since you get more capacity which means you will draw down the batteries much less..
A lot of folks here push the expensive brands by saying they are better and will last longer. That is not always the case especially if you constantly over discharge and undercharge them.
I have been able to get 10yrs out of a set of low priced GC2 batteries, they could have gone another several yrs but I depend on them to power my home fridge conversion.
Well taken care of batteries typically can offer 9-12 yrs of service provided you do not deeply discharge and you immediately recharge them as soon as possible. Never leave them fully or partially discharged state.
On edit..
Have you considered trying a "test" camping experience in your backyard without power for the weekend or the time you expect to camp?
That would be best in order to see just how long you can camp without power before committing a large sum of money.. Your trailer should have come with a battery of some sort, it is required in order to have a working emergency breakaway brake system.. Or you could pull a battery out of your car for the weekend (provided it isn't your only form of transportation).