110V Hookup

2112 wrote:
Let's dig into this a little deeper for future reference. Anyone feel free to correct me.

I recommend a 50ft 12AWG extension. This will ideally produce a 3V drop at 15A. The adapter will produce about a 1V drop. Considering 120V at the outlet, the camper should have 115V while drawing 15A. That's 1725W. I like to try to not exceed 1700W while on this extension chord.

Using conservative numbers to account for the converter:
Furnace = 100W
Fridge on AC = 350W
Water heater on AC = 1500W
Microwave = 1300W
Standard light bulb = 20W each

Using these numbers, you can operate your furnace, some lights and the fridge on AC without coming close to the 1700W allotment. You can operate the furnace, fridge and microwave for a short period of time. You can operate the water heater or the microwave, but not at the same time. It's called power management.

Forget about the air conditioner. I do not recommend operating it on an extension chord.

Generally good analysis...a couple of comments to add:
- Check the voltage at the RV. 120v is a nominal voltage. It's common and within spec for it to vary between 104-127v (and voltage will vary over the course of the day). If you are on the high end, that's fine but at the low end, you have less available power. We have a $10 voltage meter that we leave plugged into an outlet in the trailer that's easy to see from the couch (even better are automated systems that will cut the voltage if it gets too low).
- If you do want to run an electric space heater, look at the wattage. We've never seen 1700w unit (not saying they don't exist). Most we've had have been 1200w or 1500w. If you keep everything else on propane, you can likely get away with running one.
- Air/con (not likely needed in winter) is a different animal. Heaters just pull what they are rated for (in amps). Electric motors (like the one running the compressor) have two requirements. Start up and continuous operation. Start up is often a multiple times as many amps but once started, you are likely looking at 9-12amps continuous for the air/con. As long as it starts quickly without struggle, you can likely run the air/con. Voltage is more critical here. Resistance loads (like heating elements) pull a given amperage. If voltage is low, the only real problem is they put out less heat but otherwise don't really care about the voltage. Electric motors though generally pull a certain wattage. If the voltage goes down, it pulls more amps to keep the wattage up. Amperage is what burns up power cords.

Let's dig into this a little deeper for future reference. Anyone feel free to correct me.

I recommend a 50ft 12AWG extension. This will ideally produce a 3V drop at 15A. The adapter will produce about a 1V drop. Considering 120V at the outlet, the camper should have 115V while drawing 15A. That's 1725W. I like to try to not exceed 1700W while on this extension chord.

Using conservative numbers to account for the converter:
Furnace = 100W
Fridge on AC = 350W
Water heater on AC = 1500W
Microwave = 1300W
Standard light bulb = 20W each

Using these numbers, you can operate your furnace, some lights and the fridge on AC without coming close to the 1700W allotment. You can operate the furnace, fridge and microwave for a short period of time. You can operate the water heater or the microwave, but not at the same time. It's called power management.

Forget about the air conditioner. I do not recommend operating it on an extension chord.

philh wrote:
are you sure the outlet is 20A?

Big power draws will be microwave, AC (during warmer periods), and the propane heater is a lesser item. Can you go with electric heat?

electric heat will add to the problem. use gas heat and gas hot water.

Everything but the AC will run on basically any household outlet that’s not used up. And pretty much any extension cord but 12ga min recommended. Aside from microwave which is like half of the AC , it’s basically running the battery charger.

The heater is propane so not an electric draw other than the fan. 110 should be fine.

If you don't have any Covid symptoms then you don't have Covid. No worries.

Thanks everyone! You all have made me feel better. It will be propane for the heater. I'll make sure the outlet isn't using too much already.

As they said, make sure the outlet you use dosent have 12 things on it allready, garage door opener outlets are usally good as they are supost to be on there own circut. Big guage extention cord. If you dont have one maybe its time to get an extention for your 30 amp camper cord. You can run a lot on a 20 amp outlet. Just not all at once.

Pipsfc wrote:
I'll be visiting my parents this week and keeping the camper in their driveway to sleep in (COVID measure). I plan on running the heater and some interior lights but nothing else. Since I'll be using my adapter to go from the 30A to the 20A 110V household outlets, I was going to use an extension cord of 12-14 AWG if the camper cord doesn't reach on its own. Can anyone see a problem with this?

Sounds good as long as the heater is your propane furnace.
Run the fridge and water heat on propane and all is good.

12 gauge would be the minimum. What is the distance from plugin to RV? Distance is as important as amps. 10 gauge would be better. Are you sure the outlet is 20 amp?

Did this in PNW summer of 2019, water heater & TV w/o issues. Your heater will be 12V as you can run it boon docking. The 110 will keep your batteries up.