'14 Ram 2500 Axle Seals Leaking
My '14 2500 has 120,000 miles. This summer before a big trip pulling my 5th wheel out west I found both outer axle seals leaking. I replaced them along with the parking brake shoes and have pulled o...
Forum Discussion
Herre is my opinions, take them for what they are worth. if nothing disregard them. I've replace a ton of seals in full floaters and clipped axles as well...
First off, fill the fluid to where you can touch it with your second finger in the fill hole. Don't have to be at the fill hole edge, the axles, as you drive, will convey the lubricant to the ends. Not a big deal to fill to the bottom edge of the fill hole.
Secondly, remove the vent hose entirely (from the axle fitting) and probe the fitting to make sure it's not blocked. Use a small screwdriver that fits in the hole. If it's clear, take the hose and the end breather fitting (if it has one) and clean it out with solvent and compressed air and reinstall it but make sure the end is facing to the rear of the truck and is mounted up as high as possible, preferably in a sheltered spot. If the hose isn't long enough, rep-lace it. It's ordinary vacuum hose.
Third, when the hubs are off, check the journals on the axle housing for gouges and use fine emery paper to polish the journal surface all around and remove any rust or gunk. OEM and aftermarket seals won't cut into the journal surface as a rule, so a sleeve seal like a Chicago rawhide CR seals is rarely needed.
In as much as you've done this before I don't have to tell you to set the preload correctly and fill the hub cavity with lube when reinstalling, I presume you already know that (and the correct pre load torque spec as well as the number of clicks to back the prevailing torque nut off, once you pre load and spin the hub...
Other than a worn seal ( they do wear out and don't last forever) the only other thing that can cause lubricant to get by the seal lip is an pressure condition in the housing, brought about bu the axle warming up in use.
A very remote possibility would be too little prevailing torque on the bearing pack, causing the hub assembly to wobble in use but I presume you are competent enough to pre load properly. If you aren't let a shop replace the seals and check the vent line. Too much prevailing torque will destroy the bearings and possible the ring and pinion, too little will cause seal failure and a noisy rear end.
That pressure condition can only be brought about by a blocked vent.
First off, fill the fluid to where you can touch it with your second finger in the fill hole. Don't have to be at the fill hole edge, the axles, as you drive, will convey the lubricant to the ends. Not a big deal to fill to the bottom edge of the fill hole.
Secondly, remove the vent hose entirely (from the axle fitting) and probe the fitting to make sure it's not blocked. Use a small screwdriver that fits in the hole. If it's clear, take the hose and the end breather fitting (if it has one) and clean it out with solvent and compressed air and reinstall it but make sure the end is facing to the rear of the truck and is mounted up as high as possible, preferably in a sheltered spot. If the hose isn't long enough, rep-lace it. It's ordinary vacuum hose.
Third, when the hubs are off, check the journals on the axle housing for gouges and use fine emery paper to polish the journal surface all around and remove any rust or gunk. OEM and aftermarket seals won't cut into the journal surface as a rule, so a sleeve seal like a Chicago rawhide CR seals is rarely needed.
In as much as you've done this before I don't have to tell you to set the preload correctly and fill the hub cavity with lube when reinstalling, I presume you already know that (and the correct pre load torque spec as well as the number of clicks to back the prevailing torque nut off, once you pre load and spin the hub...
Other than a worn seal ( they do wear out and don't last forever) the only other thing that can cause lubricant to get by the seal lip is an pressure condition in the housing, brought about bu the axle warming up in use.
A very remote possibility would be too little prevailing torque on the bearing pack, causing the hub assembly to wobble in use but I presume you are competent enough to pre load properly. If you aren't let a shop replace the seals and check the vent line. Too much prevailing torque will destroy the bearings and possible the ring and pinion, too little will cause seal failure and a noisy rear end.
That pressure condition can only be brought about by a blocked vent.
