Forum Discussion

desertroad's avatar
desertroad
Explorer
Mar 07, 2018

'16 F250 w/o in-bed 7 pin plug & how to get a camper package

Hi,

I'm replacing my 85 F-250 diesel with a 2016 6.2L F250 gasser extended cab for our Bigfoot camper. However, while this F250 has a tow package, with the plug below the bumper, I didn't see a plug in the driver side bed, for easy connection. Based on reading some other posts, I understand getting a camper package will not include an in-bed 7 pin plugin for a slide-in camper. So is the clunky workaround to get a longer cable, and try to plug it in the bumper plug, or will it be easy for a Ford dealer to put this in as well?

Side question, is the best way to obtain a camper package to get it directly from Ford, and then have a Ford dealer install it, or are there regular mechanics who can do this as well?

Thanks!
Truck Campers
  • desertroad's avatar
    desertroad
    Explorer
    Mar 07, 2018
    scout4trout wrote:
    The 2016 Ford camper package on the F250 includes rear auxiliary springs as well as a sway bar, so you could probably have Ford install those. But I'd opt for the Big Wig sway bar. Another member on this forum had a 2016 F250 with camper package that didn't feel he had sufficient capacity for his new Northern Lite (about 2,750 dry weight) so he upgraded to an F350. I don't know what model Big Foot you have, but the 2500 series are hefty for the F250. We're maxed on our F250. Probably should have listened to those on here that said we should go with the F350 when we were ordering.


    Thanks for the info...Yes, we have a 2500 series Bigfoot, about 2700 Lb wet. My 85 diesel is hauling it fine without any noticable sagging. And I figure if I got a gas instead of diesel F250, it should lighten the truck to make up for the extended cab. You don't really know for sure until it's on the scales. I'm willing to take out the back seats of the extended cab and drive with less in the tanks to shave some more off to get closer to the 2500 Lb limit. Getting an F350 in California may be a lot more pricey with regards to DMV registration fees if I read it correctly.
  • stevenal's avatar
    stevenal
    Nomad II
    Mar 07, 2018
    I had an in-bed receptacle two trucks ago. It was installed by the camper dealer using undersized wire and Scotch-loc connectors ensuring high voltage drop and little charging capability. They punched through the sheet metal leaving raw edges, so that's where the corrosion began. I also had to be careful when loading material to keep from damaging it. Beginning with my last truck, I now connect to the trailer receptacle and leave the bed clean.
  • Kayteg1's avatar
    Kayteg1
    Explorer II
    Mar 07, 2018
    I was considering adding such plug on my new truck, but from what I check factory puts them in rear corner of the bed.
    That require to use cord extension anyway and with tall bed sides on newer trucks, you don't have access to the plug with camper on.
    So what's the point?
    I plug the extension into bumper plug, drive under the camper and plug camper cord into extension, securing the cables hanging on camper side.
    Than lower the camper and I am done.
    For years I've been crawling under the camper to pull bumper plug and in dry weather it is not a big deal, but thinking about my knees getting stiffer and stiffer with age and potential for camping in the rain, , the side cable connection is way better.
  • WyoBull's avatar
    WyoBull
    Explorer
    Mar 07, 2018
    I had my Ford Dealer install the 7-way plug in the bed. The only way you can get it from the factory is if you order the 5th wheel prep package. It was an easy job for them to do and it looks just like it came from the factory.
  • Bedlam's avatar
    Bedlam
    Moderator
    Mar 07, 2018
    Between the bed and cab should be a plug to allow running a connection to the pickup bed. I have always used a long cord from the camper to the back of the truck where I use a Y-cable to enable towing off the same connection.

    If you have access to a junkyard, you may be able pull the perches off the frame rails of a F350 and while on that same truck grab the u-bolts, blocks and upper overload springs.

    I was happy with my OEM rear stabilizer bar, but the BigWig is better choice if don't already have one.

    My truck also had higher rated coils on the front suspension. It my not be needed unless you plan to add a front cargo basket, aftermarket bumper or winch to your truck.
  • Grit_dog's avatar
    Grit_dog
    Navigator
    Mar 07, 2018
    Well congrats on the new rig! That's a heck of a step up. You're getting a great truck. Have had a couple of them as company work trucks....solid.
    I wouldn't go to the dealer for anything. If you're not comfortable doing basic mechanical work yourself, pretty much any mechanic can do basic suspension upgrades or trailer plugs.
    Plus, you can buy plug n play kits for an additional trailer plug. Check out etrailer.com.

    I don't use the camper much so I just made an extension plug from the rear plug by the hitch.
  • scout4trout's avatar
    scout4trout
    Explorer
    Mar 07, 2018
    The 2016 Ford camper package on the F250 includes rear auxiliary springs as well as a sway bar, so you could probably have Ford install those. But I'd opt for the Big Wig sway bar. Another member on this forum had a 2016 F250 with camper package that didn't feel he had sufficient capacity for his new Northern Lite (about 2,750 dry weight) so he upgraded to an F350. I don't know what model Big Foot you have, but the 2500 series are hefty for the F250. We're maxed on our F250. Probably should have listened to those on here that said we should go with the F350 when we were ordering.
  • Ski_Pro_3's avatar
    Ski_Pro_3
    Explorer
    Mar 07, 2018
    If you buy your camper from a dealer, they should wire your truck for you. My Lance dealer did anyways. If you are buying a used camper from a private party, then get the camper first as the pin out between brands can be different. Last thing I would do is let a dealer anywhere near my truck other than warranty work.

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