Truck trailering packages

If you're stuck on a 1/2 ton, you're going to be pushing it for a 30' trailer. 3/4T is better for that trailer. Diesel is more better than gas, but that's an expensive option that won't be necessary until you get into larger 5th wheels.

On a 1/2 get the max tow package, and make sure the truck has towing mirrors and towing brake controller. you will want a wt distributing hitch and sway control of some sort.

Buying the truck first is usually not a good idea. You may get to the RV dealer's lot and fall in love with a TT that your new truck is not up for. If you decide you want a 30 footer, you may find that the truck has too little payload capacity to carry the hitch weight of the trailer AND you, your family, and whatever cargo you wish to put in the truck. Pay no attention to the towing capacity on a half ton truck, you will run out of payload before ever reaching it.

That said, get the most heavy duty towing package they offer.

"The truck sales person said it was better to get a truck that has a receiver hitch from the factory versus an after market hitch"

It also makes sense for the sales person...you'll pay more to the dealer for the the hitch instead of paying an aftermarket installer.

My Tahoe is similar to a Chevy 1500. I have a rated payload of 1595 and tow capacity of 8500 but I wouldn't (and don't) go over 6000 pounds.

Since your brand new to towing, take your time and do plenty of research before you put your money into something that isn't what you needed. A good place to start that research is here(clicky)
This is not a matter of buy a truck and then just go out and buy a trailer.

1/2 ton is good for a 22 foot trailer. But you would be better off with a 3/4 ton truck for a 30 foot trailer. You definitely want a towing package which should include a receiver and wiring, upgraded cooling including an external transmission cooler, towing mirrors and hopefully an integrated brake controller.

As far as your concern on the hitch, your 1/2 ton will probably not have the payload capacity (think about trailer tongue weight as well as weight of the gear in the bed here) to worry about which hitch you buy. Both the factory and the aftermarket will work fine for what you are going to tow.

I would ask about the rear axle gear ratio on the truck and stay away from things in the 3.5x or 3.4x or lower range. I would think you want at a minimum a 3.7x or even into the 4.x's to allow you to upgrade in the future.

Now go online and research a few trailer weights both for 22 foot and maybe 30 foot trailers. Take the advertised dry weights and add 1,000 pounds (Just a Wild A** Guess here). Now take 15 percent of that total. This represents the tongue weight of the trailer you are considering. Write these numbers down and take the list with you to the truck dealer.

At the dealer mostly ignore the huge towing capacity numbers in the brochure and just open the drivers door and look at the yellow sticker on the door jamb. This will give you the true capacity for that particular truck. Pay attention to the payload here as it will likely be surprisingly low. That payload number is based on a single 150 pound driver. Now add in your passengers weights. If you have kids they will get heavier as they get older. Maybe figure 200 lbs for every additional male and 125 lbs for every additional female. Subtract that number from the payload capacity. What about the weight distribution hitch, bicycles, firewood, extra water. Maybe go conservative and subtract an additional 150 pounds from the capacity.

Now you're left with the true capacity of the truck you are considering. This is where the size and therefore weight of the trailer comes in. Look at the list you brought with you and subtract the tongue weight from what just you calculated as the trucks payload number above. Does the truck you are considering have enough payload capacity to carry that tongue weight or are you hitting negative numbers?


Oh also, you are correct that the weight distribution hitch is an add on part and not part of the new truck.

The salesman is BSing you about aftermarket hitches being welded on. They are bolted on the same as the factory hitches. Another vote for a 3/4 ton if you are planning on upgrading to a 30' TT unless you are a guy who can easily buy a new truck again to fit the bigger trailer

Things to keep in mind, for your truck / trailer shopping.

1. The RV sales person has no idea what you're going to load in the trailer. Only thing they know for sure, is unloaded weight of the trailer, and advertised "max tow" weights for various truck models. They may try to sell you something that puts a stretch on your truck's capabilities, before you load it with camping gear. They'll tell you the trailer has XXX lbs of hitch / tongue weight. Don't count on that number for your calculations. Most likely, when the trailer is loaded up for camping, it's actual tongue weight will be a couple hundred pounds heavier. Tongue weight is not a constant number, it fluctuates during every trip.

2. Advertised "max tow" weights are an "UP TO" number, and they are calculated without passengers or cargo. Depending on suspension, cab configuration (single cab, extended, crew cab), drive train, power train, installed options, etc, every truck has it's own payload and true "max tow" weight. You need to check the numbers on each and every 1500, 2500, F150, F250, etc.

3. There is a tire / loading sticker (drivers door jamb) on every truck. On that sticker, there is a number for "max occupant / cargo weight" (AKA payload). That number is that particular truck's capacity to carry the combined weight of aftermarket accessories (bed liners / covers, bed caps, etc), people, pets, car seats, luggage, entertainment systems, a weight distributing hitch / anti sway equipment, and tongue weight from a trailer.

4. Part of the manufacturers calculation of max tow weight, is payload used to carry hitch equipment and tongue weight. When you use some of the payload for people and stuff, you no longer have the payload to support that max tow weight. It's very common to run out of payload, long before you get close to towing that max weight.

5. The closer you get to being at or over your weight ratings, the more unpleasant your towing experience will be.

6. Average trailer load (dishes, pots and pans, camp chairs, BBQ equipment, bedding, groceries, water, etc) is 800 to 1000 lbs. Depending on how close these things are loaded to front of the trailer, the more they add to tongue weight.

7. Tongue weight should be at minimum of ten percent of loaded trailer weight. Average is about 12.5 percent. Not enough tongue weight can cause trailer sway.

8. If you know the payload on a particular truck, you can subtract the combined weight of your passengers, cargo, and 100 lbs for a distribution hitch, and what is left over is available for carrying tongue weight. You can then divide that available payload by .13, and that will give you a ball park number for LOADED trailer weight that would put that truck near its max capacity.

9. When you go trailer shopping, look at the GVWR of the trailer, not the UVW the sales person is talking about. Multiply the GVWR by .13 to get an approximate loaded tongue weight.

Here is a great video for you to watch.
https://youtu.be/qwFLOBrADBs

IF you are stuck on a 1/2 ton, you want the GM Max Trailering package. The truck should come with the bigger mirrors (as the first clue) and the code NHT on the sticker in the glovebox. I would not try to tow a 30' with a non-NHT GM half ton.

For my 2015 GMC with the above, I have a payload of 2,015 lbs (per the sticker on the door jam) and a max trailer weight of 10,800 (meaningless number from a brochure).

I tow a 33''4" 2010 Cougar 30RKS that has a GVW of 8,200 lbs (and I've scaled it at that loaded). This put me at my maximum payload. I also use a Equal-i-zer 4 pt hitch that does both weight distribution and sway control. I'd recommend this hitch or one like it.

Any more weight and I'd need a 3/4 ton. Interesting that the current version of the trailer has a GVW of 9,500 lbs. I would not tow that with my truck.

Right now, I'd be inclined to wait until the new 3/4 tons come out. the 2020 Sierra/Silverado 2500HD will come with a 6.6L gas motor and close to double the payload of mine. If you don't like them (and I really do like the looks of the GMC) then the price on the 2019's should come down as dealers try to clear them out. Should be mid-June by everything I've read.

Tons of great information, thanks so much to everyone. Much more math than I anticipated, but best for me to figure it all out now so I don't run into any problems later on.