Today - Galley wall and base cabinets install. Gas line routing.
The cabinets were installed originally with a Phillips drive standard wood screw. State of the art in 1964. Fasteners have come a long way since then, and I for one - resist it!
Don't give me these fantastical things for all sorts of purposes and differing threads and drives - unless I need them of course, then it's different. But generally speaking, they're expensive! Yeah, well some can be. What I have on my shelves are already bought! That's as cheap as they come.
Every so often I have to breeze on in to a home center and pick up a new box or three of fasteners, but I like to limit it. So let's see, what do we have, and what did we have?
Here are my cabinets screws, basic black construction screws with a flat washer. To replace the (some rusted) original wood screws.
Here's the problem. The originals, upon original installation, got their heads buried in the cabinet framework. And like a barbed arrow, when you try and take them out, they get stuck in their hole. And since the cabinet is still fastened tight with adjacent screws, the cabinet forces the removing screw thread to strip out the already potentially rotted or rusted or otherwise weakened screw hole thread in the wall! Finally after you get the cabinet out, you have to hammer the screw out like a nail from it's back side. So to use existing holes, I threw on a slightly courser thread and a flat washer to keep the screw from burrowing in, like a darn tick!
Here's a picture showing one buried screw that didn't grab (because it was a hollow cavity here) and a new screw location into a place where I KNEW put a staple backer inside the wall cabinet ceiling area.
Also, the flat washer (on inside cabinetry) as compared to a decorative washer (out in the main hall) is a signal to a future owner (or to me in my old age as I continue to forget stuff), that these with the flat washer are the ones to remove, if you need the cabinet out, or whatever object is being removed. So that's the method - and the madness.
Here are the cabinets in place.
And the closer views.
Rearward.
Middle.
Forward.
I got all the screws ready in the base.
Made certain it was in tight, and where it belonged, and found the original holes in the floor segments. Zip it in!
Don't forget the one at the back wall of the small drawer. A nice clean cabinet, sealed fairly good with this screw, up against the new back wall.
And look at the quality of the drawer!
Eventually I'll probably make dividers for this drawer
like I did for Lil' Queeny.The lower drawer, on the other hand, is not enclosed, and sits directly below the range, so will contain things less needful of cleanliness, like maybe pans or something.
But I put the drawer in place to make sure the rear drawer support was being screwed to the wall in the correct place. That's what helps the drawer front sit flat against the cabinet face. Important stuff!
This is the stage where the cabinet contents get put in and taken out multiple times, like the range.
In fact it was time to fit it, with the propane line runs. First I ran the line through the floor and re-connected to the tee underneath which connects one leg to the furnace...
And the other leg to the propane supply.
Today I might buzz over to the RV Parts store and get the hook-ups for tank connection. Once that's done, I can leak test and appliance check. For now we continue to route gas lines.
First I gave the range a general cleaning with hot soapy water.
And the counter rim, as bad of condition as it is in (we'll fix it later).
Because of the location for the range/lamp tee behind the range, I routed the gas-line through the top RIGHT of the range back. That's a mistake, but we'll fix it later, when I tell you why.
But installed like this, I could get a visual on the joint, by simply removing the lower drawer, and opening the cabinet door below that for arms. That's important, so as to get future routine leak checks and maintenance access, especially for interior gas connections!
The last interior spot of connection is at the lamp, up here in the wall cabinet. I mis-judged when routing the line in the new wall cavity. A bit short I believe. When I get the propane lamp installed, I'll see how bad it is and work it out one way or another.
Tomorrow we'll work on water copper lines and faucets, and drain components. Then we'll see why I rerouted part of the range line.
