Forum Discussion
Dave_Pete
Jun 18, 2017Explorer II
You're welcome. I'm so glad you're enjoying it.
Today - City Fresh Water test, Grey Water plumbing completion and test.
I'm starting to keep a small list of subjects still needing posts. As you've probably seen, I might get several areas worked on in one day, just to post at a later date. That's good, because it offers a little continuity, in that I might start something one day, and finish it several days later, but when posting I can cover it all in one day.
On the other hand, sometimes pictures will reveal stuff that hasn't yet been talked about, or I might have difficulty organizing the pictures and narrative. But that's an enjoyable challenge too!
So we'll see more of of it done either way. Like I said, it's best if I can simply work on what holds my interest that day, at that moment, but then comes a day when I HAVE to get back onto something I've let slide. Like today (real world time) for instance, Father's Day and I'll be applying second applications of epoxy - and mowing the lawn. Don't get any better than that huh? ;)
But today (forum time) let's kind of finish up the subject of yesterday's city fresh-water tap and the grey water drain and vent system under the galley sink.
And keep in mind, I don't know how you're supposed to do any of this. I'm just guessing, based on years of involvement with portions and aspects of home ownership, and familiarity with old RVs. So DON'T try any of this at home, unless you're willing to use your own brain to evaluate both what you try yourself, and what you might learn from me.
If, on the other hand, you simply enjoy the read, well enjoy away. I'll try not to get too "Dave Berry" on you! Although he is one of my favorite writers. Oh and Pat McManus - :)
Throughout a rebuild like this, I'm constantly evaluating the benefits of choosing to re-use and restore the old, existing parts, or replacing with new, or modifying with things I have around in all my little storage spots. Here's a perfect example.
The sink stopper, flange and basin nut parts. New stuff on the left, old on the right.
One side.
Other side.
What we don't want in the bottom of the sink is plastic, cheap looking, etc. Need that "old time" heavier, quality look, for the visual areas, just like outside, at the drain and vent.
But I needed a rubber gasket for the flange, as you can tell from the pictures, and I thought I might need a new stopper, as the old stopper was broken. I fixed it though, by re-attaching the center handle to the main stopper part, like a rivet hammered (peened) to reattach it. But note the differences in quality of some parts.
Still new on left and old on right.
This one also shows the really short original tailpiece (typically attaches between the basin flange and the trap). In this case, that short tailpiece was to accommodate plumbing with an elbow to cross over the top of the ice box, and get the pipes ready to discharge to a relatively high drain exit, and low vent opening in the wall.
Look how thin the new metal is.
Compared to the heft of the old.
I chose the old.
Behind the scenes though, I wanted a little better dependability when it comes to leaks and such. While doing Lil' Queeny I came across a thing called a "Fernco" adapter or trap, introduced to me by a fella who used to follow that thread.
Also, in my plans for a future fridge install, I'd need to raise the base cabinet 3.5" and angle the sink drain quickly to clear the fridge top. That's all based on one size fridge chosen for these plans.
So I built this PVC manifold, to offset the tail-piece to the side by the wall exit.
Incidentally, I just noticed, I could remove the basin nut and just use the tub elbow as the nut. Whoops! But it's working as is (no leaks) so I may leave well enough alone.
So yeah, I used a tub elbow right there under the sink, 1.5". Then it is a normal 1.5" male pipe thread to the new (still short) PVC tailpiece, but with a heavy rubber washer as opposed to the less preferable, small plastic washers, in a moving (vibrating) vehicle.
I also used a rubber beveled washer (as opposed to the plastic one) where the trap piece extends into the drain/vent diverter at the wall. Still need to cut the metal piece to size. I'm using metal because I found the worm-gear Fernco trap didn't fasten leak free to a PVC trap piece on Lil' Queeny. The ends are a little different and the plastic is thin walled and easily distorted where it elbows due to the odd cone shape of the connection.
Fits this bevel.
And cut to proper length.
And all in.
Now that provides the clearance needed for a future fridge install, with little disruption. Of course we'll need to re-route the city water pipe (as well as the hand pump plumbing - probably go to a 12 Volt pump system by then anyway), but that would be a good time to make a wall mount inlet for the city water, with modern check valve styling.
Outside I removed the drain cap (still need to fix its missing retention chain), and screwed on a newly purchase hose adapter for a grey water jug of some sort.
After attaching a pressured up garden hose to the camper and finding no leaks, it was back inside to operate the faucet. Check.
The original metal beveled sink stopper worked just fine, especially with a little water volume pressing weight down on it.
And let it flow!
Amazing! First try and no leaks!
I think that's a first.
Today - City Fresh Water test, Grey Water plumbing completion and test.
I'm starting to keep a small list of subjects still needing posts. As you've probably seen, I might get several areas worked on in one day, just to post at a later date. That's good, because it offers a little continuity, in that I might start something one day, and finish it several days later, but when posting I can cover it all in one day.
On the other hand, sometimes pictures will reveal stuff that hasn't yet been talked about, or I might have difficulty organizing the pictures and narrative. But that's an enjoyable challenge too!
So we'll see more of of it done either way. Like I said, it's best if I can simply work on what holds my interest that day, at that moment, but then comes a day when I HAVE to get back onto something I've let slide. Like today (real world time) for instance, Father's Day and I'll be applying second applications of epoxy - and mowing the lawn. Don't get any better than that huh? ;)
But today (forum time) let's kind of finish up the subject of yesterday's city fresh-water tap and the grey water drain and vent system under the galley sink.
And keep in mind, I don't know how you're supposed to do any of this. I'm just guessing, based on years of involvement with portions and aspects of home ownership, and familiarity with old RVs. So DON'T try any of this at home, unless you're willing to use your own brain to evaluate both what you try yourself, and what you might learn from me.
If, on the other hand, you simply enjoy the read, well enjoy away. I'll try not to get too "Dave Berry" on you! Although he is one of my favorite writers. Oh and Pat McManus - :)
Throughout a rebuild like this, I'm constantly evaluating the benefits of choosing to re-use and restore the old, existing parts, or replacing with new, or modifying with things I have around in all my little storage spots. Here's a perfect example.
The sink stopper, flange and basin nut parts. New stuff on the left, old on the right.
One side.
Other side.
What we don't want in the bottom of the sink is plastic, cheap looking, etc. Need that "old time" heavier, quality look, for the visual areas, just like outside, at the drain and vent.
But I needed a rubber gasket for the flange, as you can tell from the pictures, and I thought I might need a new stopper, as the old stopper was broken. I fixed it though, by re-attaching the center handle to the main stopper part, like a rivet hammered (peened) to reattach it. But note the differences in quality of some parts.
Still new on left and old on right.
This one also shows the really short original tailpiece (typically attaches between the basin flange and the trap). In this case, that short tailpiece was to accommodate plumbing with an elbow to cross over the top of the ice box, and get the pipes ready to discharge to a relatively high drain exit, and low vent opening in the wall.
Look how thin the new metal is.
Compared to the heft of the old.
I chose the old.
Behind the scenes though, I wanted a little better dependability when it comes to leaks and such. While doing Lil' Queeny I came across a thing called a "Fernco" adapter or trap, introduced to me by a fella who used to follow that thread.
Also, in my plans for a future fridge install, I'd need to raise the base cabinet 3.5" and angle the sink drain quickly to clear the fridge top. That's all based on one size fridge chosen for these plans.
So I built this PVC manifold, to offset the tail-piece to the side by the wall exit.
Incidentally, I just noticed, I could remove the basin nut and just use the tub elbow as the nut. Whoops! But it's working as is (no leaks) so I may leave well enough alone.
So yeah, I used a tub elbow right there under the sink, 1.5". Then it is a normal 1.5" male pipe thread to the new (still short) PVC tailpiece, but with a heavy rubber washer as opposed to the less preferable, small plastic washers, in a moving (vibrating) vehicle.
I also used a rubber beveled washer (as opposed to the plastic one) where the trap piece extends into the drain/vent diverter at the wall. Still need to cut the metal piece to size. I'm using metal because I found the worm-gear Fernco trap didn't fasten leak free to a PVC trap piece on Lil' Queeny. The ends are a little different and the plastic is thin walled and easily distorted where it elbows due to the odd cone shape of the connection.
Fits this bevel.
And cut to proper length.
And all in.
Now that provides the clearance needed for a future fridge install, with little disruption. Of course we'll need to re-route the city water pipe (as well as the hand pump plumbing - probably go to a 12 Volt pump system by then anyway), but that would be a good time to make a wall mount inlet for the city water, with modern check valve styling.
Outside I removed the drain cap (still need to fix its missing retention chain), and screwed on a newly purchase hose adapter for a grey water jug of some sort.
After attaching a pressured up garden hose to the camper and finding no leaks, it was back inside to operate the faucet. Check.
The original metal beveled sink stopper worked just fine, especially with a little water volume pressing weight down on it.
And let it flow!
Amazing! First try and no leaks!
I think that's a first.
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