1968 Travel Queen Resto Mod - 12. Waste Water
Part 12. Waste Water is pretty much self-explanatory. Is it black? Is it grey? And how is it done in this vintage resto-mod so that advantage is gained in such a limited space? These are issues both p...
Forum Discussion
Waste Water - Drain Waste Vent (DWV) Routing and Planning - Galley
Today I'm still on waste water. After setting up a system for the bathroom, I turned to the galley. There's nothing like placing the furniture and partition walls and cabinets to learn pretty darn quick just how limited I've made extra space. Hey - that's all part of the challenge huh? And that becomes fun.
They said we couldn't go to the moon!
Seriously, planning out and engineering an RV's systems is quite a mental process. There was a day when I couldn't do a thing until it was all laid out on paper (I exaggerate but you get my drift).
But these days it seems I subconsciously fight too much paper planning and I'm better at planning as I do it. I think we all have varied levels of some similar thing in how we go about what we do.
So cutting test pieces to size, and temporarily locating pieces that must be moved again, maybe several times, is all part of my process.
Let's start here for example.
And covered up, here's the same space.
Those are two group 24 batteries by the way. This area will even fit two group 31s now. Not yet sure what I'll use.
But why the plumbing loop? Good question. As you already know about me, I like to make things removable as modules. Let's say the grey tank needs to come out. It won't unless the cabinet around it is removed. Therefore I have to design the installation of the front cabinet around the fresh water tank so as to swing forward JUST enough that the grey tank cabinet can be removed without having to disturb the fresh water tank. So that is accommodated (I tested it.) ;)
Now with the fresh water tank area undisturbed except for a slight cabinet move, the grey tank can come out. Oh but NO - because of the drain plumbing. So in those above photos there is space to cut both horizontal runs and remove just a little material and re-install with two glued couplers. And there's enough length to do so multiple times if you plan for it as you do it. That was the first idea. Now the plan is to do so with just a couple of no-hub couplers. Those are the rubber type with worm-gear clamps. That spot will take two. And why not come straight up and elbow out? It has to do with both a 2x2 slightly in the way for the size of the fittings and no space for threading or sliding glued parts.
I decided to use numerous no-hub couplers in the grey water system. In the galley sink run there will be three-four alone - to accommodate the same modular design for accessing specific areas with minimal disruption to the rest. Maybe one or more around the shower drain. I don't think any will be needed at the dump gate because the nature of a valve gives the separation needed already.
Let's move forward.
The galley double basin sink will drain from where you see, to behind the range, and elbow to alongside the range between it and the fridge cabinet. There's space, and the tag on the range requires 0" side spacing from combustibles. Even so I think I'm doing copper behind and along the range just because it is simpler than adapting PVC and copper.
The run requires copper here.
At this spot the run alongside the range comes into the room through a hole I'll drill in the wood face. The copper fitting's outside diameter allows for not damaging the chrome frame around the range face. From the hole it will immediately elbow down and then just as immediately elbow again under the fridge cabinet face to where it extends 5-8" and ends. At that point it uses a no-hub coupler to connect to PVC which then elbows quickly to the right and across this area of the fresh water tank cabinet.
The run will be located just aft of the board shown. So the no-hub coupler mentioned will be accessible by removing the waste can. At the far right side of the tank the run will elbow to the rear and immediately downward between the tank and cabinet wall where it will run a short distance to the next no-hub coupler. From there another PVC module will connect and then elbow rearward into the under dinette floor area and no-hub couple to a run into the tank. This piece in fact.
I might mention something here. The tank materials are soft. They are made out of milk jugs. It took a lot of paper machete type assembly, but I was finally successful. Of course I'm kidding but the threads are soft.
I've tried in past to Teflon tape these types of joints and haven't been happy with the results. I much prefer the feel and result of brush on pipe dope for these tank fittings. Of course everything else gets Teflon tape, except of course propane which is a no-no. Use a good gas pipe dope on those - when any is needed - you know because many of those are compression/flare and you don't use anything extra on those.
Today I have to run to the third home center and get some materials. Then I'll have them on hand for the jobs over the next week or so as things start to really come together in here. That is to say - in the Galley and Greatroom thread, probably.
I took advantage yesterday of reorganizing all the spare parts and stuff. Now is the time to again look at exactly what I have and how it will be used. I separated like objects into individual plastic bags. The grey ones on the left are electrical, the white on the right are plumbing, etc. There's propane and fixtures some new, some original, some on the UPS truck as we speak.
Lil' Willy has recently been making some stirring sounds from time to time, but seems to still be in a deep hibernation state.
Trim pieces and extra length stuff.
Today I'm still on waste water. After setting up a system for the bathroom, I turned to the galley. There's nothing like placing the furniture and partition walls and cabinets to learn pretty darn quick just how limited I've made extra space. Hey - that's all part of the challenge huh? And that becomes fun.
They said we couldn't go to the moon!
Seriously, planning out and engineering an RV's systems is quite a mental process. There was a day when I couldn't do a thing until it was all laid out on paper (I exaggerate but you get my drift).
But these days it seems I subconsciously fight too much paper planning and I'm better at planning as I do it. I think we all have varied levels of some similar thing in how we go about what we do.
So cutting test pieces to size, and temporarily locating pieces that must be moved again, maybe several times, is all part of my process.
Let's start here for example.
And covered up, here's the same space.
Those are two group 24 batteries by the way. This area will even fit two group 31s now. Not yet sure what I'll use.
But why the plumbing loop? Good question. As you already know about me, I like to make things removable as modules. Let's say the grey tank needs to come out. It won't unless the cabinet around it is removed. Therefore I have to design the installation of the front cabinet around the fresh water tank so as to swing forward JUST enough that the grey tank cabinet can be removed without having to disturb the fresh water tank. So that is accommodated (I tested it.) ;)
Now with the fresh water tank area undisturbed except for a slight cabinet move, the grey tank can come out. Oh but NO - because of the drain plumbing. So in those above photos there is space to cut both horizontal runs and remove just a little material and re-install with two glued couplers. And there's enough length to do so multiple times if you plan for it as you do it. That was the first idea. Now the plan is to do so with just a couple of no-hub couplers. Those are the rubber type with worm-gear clamps. That spot will take two. And why not come straight up and elbow out? It has to do with both a 2x2 slightly in the way for the size of the fittings and no space for threading or sliding glued parts.
I decided to use numerous no-hub couplers in the grey water system. In the galley sink run there will be three-four alone - to accommodate the same modular design for accessing specific areas with minimal disruption to the rest. Maybe one or more around the shower drain. I don't think any will be needed at the dump gate because the nature of a valve gives the separation needed already.
Let's move forward.
The galley double basin sink will drain from where you see, to behind the range, and elbow to alongside the range between it and the fridge cabinet. There's space, and the tag on the range requires 0" side spacing from combustibles. Even so I think I'm doing copper behind and along the range just because it is simpler than adapting PVC and copper.
The run requires copper here.
At this spot the run alongside the range comes into the room through a hole I'll drill in the wood face. The copper fitting's outside diameter allows for not damaging the chrome frame around the range face. From the hole it will immediately elbow down and then just as immediately elbow again under the fridge cabinet face to where it extends 5-8" and ends. At that point it uses a no-hub coupler to connect to PVC which then elbows quickly to the right and across this area of the fresh water tank cabinet.
The run will be located just aft of the board shown. So the no-hub coupler mentioned will be accessible by removing the waste can. At the far right side of the tank the run will elbow to the rear and immediately downward between the tank and cabinet wall where it will run a short distance to the next no-hub coupler. From there another PVC module will connect and then elbow rearward into the under dinette floor area and no-hub couple to a run into the tank. This piece in fact.
I might mention something here. The tank materials are soft. They are made out of milk jugs. It took a lot of paper machete type assembly, but I was finally successful. Of course I'm kidding but the threads are soft.
I've tried in past to Teflon tape these types of joints and haven't been happy with the results. I much prefer the feel and result of brush on pipe dope for these tank fittings. Of course everything else gets Teflon tape, except of course propane which is a no-no. Use a good gas pipe dope on those - when any is needed - you know because many of those are compression/flare and you don't use anything extra on those.
Today I have to run to the third home center and get some materials. Then I'll have them on hand for the jobs over the next week or so as things start to really come together in here. That is to say - in the Galley and Greatroom thread, probably.
I took advantage yesterday of reorganizing all the spare parts and stuff. Now is the time to again look at exactly what I have and how it will be used. I separated like objects into individual plastic bags. The grey ones on the left are electrical, the white on the right are plumbing, etc. There's propane and fixtures some new, some original, some on the UPS truck as we speak.
Lil' Willy has recently been making some stirring sounds from time to time, but seems to still be in a deep hibernation state.
Trim pieces and extra length stuff.
