Even though I had looked the camper over pretty good before putting up insulation, I had forgotten something - a backing board above the bathroom basin for installation of something we'll discuss later when we get back into that thread.
The exterior location is here, above the propane compartment so out came the poly-cyan board; yes, it was one of the areas where I used adhesive. Removal destroyed the pieces.
I didn't want nail heads on the interior surface. I guess I could have used staples - like above the stove (but I didn't think about that until just now). I didn't necessarily want to use glue and the surfaces didn't mate the best anyway due to a 45+ year bulge in the paneling away from true flat, and I don't have clamps with that kind of reach. Hey - why not try that original method used in so many places on the camper. I still have that unused roll of aluminum flashing! Might as well test drive it SOMEWHERE.
But this side needs the belt sander first, at least toward the top.
A little primer on the surface (that whole condensation thing). A couple of new poly-cyan boards.
And I rolled the first width of Reflectix back down over the repair.
Then it was on to covering the remainder of the roof/sidewall surfaces, cutting out openings, and stapling where needed to prevent shifting as the metal goes on.
I'm leaving those two last pieces off (for the front corners) until after I get the wooden end-caps in place for the cab-curve - which will be done in conjunction with the under-bunk roof metal.
I think this is the closest Lil' Queeny will get to being an Avion, almost like a Halloween costume.
"Yeah, I'm going as an Avion"
With this next photo, I could probably express my reasoning on the day of that piecing episode at the back wall, but I talked enough yesterday - and as Bill Murray once said, "It Just Doesn't Matter!" Just get into a Duct-Tape Prom Dress mindset and you'll be okay.
Here on the top you'll note how the Reflectix edge is cut to butt against the 1/4" re-enforcement frames around the vent openings, lending a nice flush surface for the roof metal to rest on.
The distance between vents is about 4.5' and has at least three potential mounting methods for something like a solar panel. I'm not sure I'll do that, but it is available and would be cool.
Here's a short (I know, with me that's a subjective concept) summary of my insulation. Not a lot of wall/roof thickness, so impossible to get a lot of R-value. The poly-cyan board has the highest R-value of the materials I found readily available. My R-value target was "as much as possible without sweating it" (pun intended). Reducing drafts is paramount. Appropriate placement of foil-faced reflectivity (infra-red bounce back).
Because we're using a catalytic heater (radiant heat) as opposed to a forced air furnace (heated air exchange/movement) reflectivity becomes arguably more important than r-value. In that method, surfaces are heated and then in turn heat the air and/or objects around them (objects like human bodies).
So the next step for the exterior is metal installation, and there's an order for that, the big piece being last. And with this post, we've caught up to my present. I might not see you for a few days, but rest assured, I'll be working on new material (okay - old material).
