1968 Travel Queen Resto Mod - 3. Structure and New Wood

Dave Pete wrote:
What I did on my summer vacation...

Yep, it's going by pretty quick. And it isn't as if Lil' Queeny hasn't been getting any attention - she has! But so has Lil' Willy, and the yard and garden, and the garage and house projects, and the (extra) work on the new travel trailer because you get what you pay for and apparently, a few tens of thousands of dollars is not enough to get you basic build and materials to last longer than the one year warranty period for such things. But we'll fix it and use it and after we get Lil' Queeny out for her first year, we'll see about keeping or unloading the travel trailer.

" Ain't it funny how time slips away "

DP...I have been watching and reading with interest in this rebuild. You are a great technician and artisan. The woodwork details are very informative and I have learned a few things and reminded of others. Your shop seem so organized compared to mine, but we get the job done.
My 1161 rebuild is a different creature compared to this vintage TC...I think it is a work of art what you are doing and making it better then new and suitable for your use. Thank you for being so diligent in posting...I know the effort it takes. Will be watching for the first outing.

What I did on my summer vacation...

Yep, it's going by pretty quick. And it isn't as if Lil' Queeny hasn't been getting any attention - she has! But so has Lil' Willy, and the yard and garden, and the garage and house projects, and the (extra) work on the new travel trailer because you get what you pay for and apparently, a few tens of thousands of dollars is not enough to get you basic build and materials to last longer than the one year warranty period for such things. But we'll fix it and use it and after we get Lil' Queeny out for her first year, we'll see about keeping or unloading the travel trailer.

But as I was sitting here pondering just now, it dawned on me, this Part 3. Structure & New Wood is done! Really! Any few odds and ends about structure can be dealt with in other categories.

So this closes out one of the lengthier, and I believe one of the more followed categories. The structure is now replaced or restored, and the new wood has included every exterior surface except the rounded sidewall/roof assembly.

Nice!

See you for Part Deux of the Lil' Queeny Resto-Mod this winter! Coming to a forum near you. For now, don't be surprised if I throw in a status or project post before then. See you down the road.

A couple of days ago, I got down to some serious buttoning-up on the front cap wall of the cab-over bunk. Having already screwed in place the bottom row, and the ends of the roof/sidewall lengthwise ribs, it was time to custom fit the individual spacer boards to complete the round front edge.

As on the rear wall, these were originally a combination of 1x2s and 3/4" plywood. It seemed to me during disassembly, the choice between the two were either, what was available during that particular stage of the camper build, or the plywood was chosen for the pieces fit to the more rounded spots.

I kind of duplicated that in the back, but up front, I settled on just 1 by material all the way around, because there will be a lot of fasteners: staples for the sheet aluminum and small screws for the trim molding (like gutter trim), and I don't know that one method is that much better than another, but I'm always willing to do it a new or different way if I feel it is a benefit, not JUST stick with a previous method for standardization - necessarily.

Additionally, each of these pieces were cut to length using an angle different from 90 degrees, based on where they fit in the radius of the wall. And each is beveled back to fit the slope of the front wall. And each was pre-drilled to fit the same angle. It was a lot of work!

Here is an example of one piece.







Each piece was pre-drilled 1/8" for the full depth of the screw to prevent splitting in the plywood edge. Then each piece was pre-drilled to the diameter of the screw threads to allow the threads to pull that piece in tight to the plywood without stressing the plywood edge, or splitting the small piece. Then each piece was counter-sunk to allow the screw head to sit low enough on its unique angle, and to prevent splitting of the piece.

I used a protractor to find the degree of angle off 90, for both ends of each piece. Then I split the difference, if any, and stuck the result in my head. Then I measured the length of the piece for span, not for longest/shortest angle length.







Then I set the angles and span lengths on the table saw. I'll mention here my table saw rule-of-thumb, as opposed to my table saw rule-of-missing-thumb. If I have to get my fingers within 3" of the blade, I use a push stick, or two push-sticks when the piece is especially small. I wear safety glasses, I stand to the side slightly so a small piece of wood thrown will not strike me in the face. I keep the surface clear of things not being cut. I keep the blade no higher than needed for the current cut.

During home remodeling some years ago, I cut into my thumb nail and learned a valuable lesson.



Note the blade here is too high. Bad move on my part.



With all the pieces cut and in their own place. I marked the bevel profile needed. Then took them down and finished up a pencil mark and took them over to the bench sander.







Then I pre-drilled and counter-sunk as earlier described, and sank them all in place.







Finally I went over all the joints as a unit with the belt sander and flushed everything up good, even starting down the side of the camper and around back until I wore out or gummed up my last belts. There's still more work to do on that chore, but it's bringing the exterior that much closer to some other final work in preparation for covering it all up!

And cover-up is not necessarily that soon. I may finish a great deal of the interior before I choose to remove my exterior access.

Well today is the day, the final installment of the exterior plywood! It feels almost as good as the final installment of a car loan or a house mortgage.

And actually this isn't the final installment of the installation because there are still parts to cut and fit and install on this last installation. But it is the last exterior plywood board being installed, so theoretically it could be called a last installment of the final exterior plywood. I just like saying installment. ;)

I stapled on the gimp and set the staples with a hammer.



And here's our last look of the open ventilation design once considered. I had also thought the "hood-scoop look" might make her look cooler and perhaps faster, but there are drawbacks and we decided upon enclosure as the best option.



It took more effort than I thought it might, and I struggled with it for quite some time, but eventually, and after trying a couple of different approaches, I got it inserted into position. It was tight! The extra gimp/staple thickness had added to it's dimensions. I'm glad I had considered that when originally sizing the board; I couldn't have made it 1/16" larger!

I had again placed the board stopper at top with the clamps. As it turned out, that was unnecessary.



Here's how the centers lined up, top and bottom.





Regarding screw placement, I wasn't placing screws along a line 3/8" from the plywood edge here at the bottom, because I had that unique floor design. To locate screw placement, first I marked along the front every three inches. Then I drew a diagram to determine how far from the edge, which ended up being 1.25".

Here's what I chose. Note the screw first goes through the front 3/4" plywood and the head seats squarely into that surface. Next the screw enters the 1x4 sandwiched in the bunk between the two layers of 1/4" plywood making up the interior and exterior surfaces.



As opposed to this sort of style which would not give me a smooth screw head on the surface.



Down below there was this sort of bow out, due in part to the steamed bend not being quite far enough, and to the natural bow of the plywood sheet.





The bow was easily pulled in with hand pressure and body weight while driving a screw with the other hand.





After making all my screw placement marks, and halfway across one side pre-drilling, I remembered I had marked - on the bottom of the bunk - the ends of the 1x4 lengthwise runners, the joists - for want of a better term. I wanted to place two screws into the ends of each and had forgotten to this point. That's why on subsequent pictures, you'll see where I missed my pencil marks as I pre-drilled, so as to accommodate that original intent.



I pre-drilled across the bottom edge, with a small bit, then a larger bit in the first material so as to let the screw suck it into the second material. In this case I didn't need to countersink.









Then it was move up top. Also you'll see in the next pictures, I had cut off the remaining rib lengths, and along the way used the belt sander to fine tune the angle on the ribs and roof boards that needed it.

And in this case I did countersink the holes, as I was drawing into weaker plywood edge material, again at the 3/8" from the edge, which started out as measured marks, but became "eye-balling it" by the end. You'll also note I had to drive the screws at an angle to match the front wall, and that alone required the countersink.







I still need to size and cut the bridging pieces, and I'm thinking I'll use a little wider than the normal 1.5" of a 1x2, but haven't yet fully examined that course of action.

From the inside.





I crawled up on the bunk and laid down, both on the inside edge and then rolled over to the outside, even in spite of the bridge pieces not yet installed, or the added strength of the sheet metal folded, stapled and screwed in place. I was favorably impressed - no creaks, no sag. It just felt firm and secure!

And then, when standing again on the outside, just looking at the result, I though I heard in a sweet, little, female voice, "I am Batman", but maybe it was just in my head, that happens sometimes.

For the past couple of days, I've been over in "Exterior, Skin & Openings", describing and showing pictures about how I shuffled up the garage.

Today's post doesn't really belong anywhere in specific, but has aspects that could go into at least of couple of threads. I chose here, as the current target is still moving toward getting the last of the exterior wood replacement pieces finished up and installed on the front of the cab-over, the sloped and v-shape front wall cap. Over these past two days I got 2 coats of bronze on it, in between other actions.

Yesterday I further cleaned and organized the re-shuffled garage. Including the most recent re-org of the shelf stuff. It now has the windows and the exterior door and the extra wood pieces here, mostly out of the way, as well as the appliances. That's the fridge under wraps there.



And that got the windows off here...



which had lived under the Willys until just two days ago. Now all the camper stuff that was stored on, under and around Lil' Willy is moved over to the Lil' Queeny side of the shop. He's seems much happier. But what a sport he always is.



I also got the second coat of green enamel on the inside fridge cabinet and exterior storage area. I think that first coat has cured now for about seven years!





And - for the first time - I noticed enough to read, this marking, easily seen now on the underside of the expanse of aluminum skin being held fast against the ceiling...



verifying my 1968 Travel Queen is a Model 102T. You can compare that to model numbers used in this 1965-66 Sales Brochure in which the 102 is the "front side dinette".

Note the difference between it and mine is the forward placement of the fridge/icebox on the left, as depicted in floor plan model #108, which we really like, because of how open and inviting the galley feels, giving it two windows!

And the other more obvious difference is the off center exterior door, to make room for a toilet closet (instead of just a wardrobe as shown in the older model 102).

When I took apart the toilet closet, one final bottom board had a center hole cutout the size of a toilet flange. Without a grey tank, and with a low rear wall access door, I suspect there was a small black tank option that Lil' Queeny didn't have because the owners planned use of a portable toilet and just needed the floor space of the option.

And that's what I think the "T" on 102T means - toilet - or expanded floor space for a toilet.

By the way, we just love all aspects of the floor plan, except perhaps the street side placement of the exterior door, but we'll make that work and I already like the expanded space of the exterior wall on the curb side for chair storage.

And also, knowing the build date of 6/28/1968 is too cool! 6/28/68. Two Pair! Now we know Lil' Queeny's lucky numbers, and perhaps by association, ours!

Oh, I also got the first coat of Bombay Mahagony tinted Poly on here too. :)



One more coat and then gimp.

Did I tell you I ordered some more systems parts? ;)

I just want to mention again, in case there are those who don't know. This thread (3. Structure and New Wood) is by far the largest of this project (so far?). But I suspect many are not aware this project is currently running 14 threads! And I'll probably add a future #15 for "Heating and Ventillation". If you aren't watching all of them, you are missing steps. Each thread is linked at the very first post of each thread, like a table of contents. In other words, you can go to page 1 and see the contents. :) Most are quite minimal compared to the length of this one.

dakonthemountain: Thanks for commenting. I can appreciate the "skill variance" statement, because I have felt that way often in my life as I watch others at what they do well. I do want to say however, as I've had the good fortune to work on this very frequently, and in a comfortable work area, those and other facts contribute to a "skill building" condition. I think when one compares what I'm doing now to what went on very early, there's a noticeable difference. Of course that's why I saved this front cap and all it's angles until last. I've been kind of scared of it to be frank!

I've also done major work (incrementally increasing in difficulty) on three homes for close to three decades (because DW and I are both cheap). :) I mean we don't like spending if we can find stuff, and do stuff ourselves. That has contributed to our capabilities too. I guess I'm trying to say, anybody can do this stuff if they are able to put in the time over many years to get there, and if they have enough interest. And even now, I often make simple mistakes.

But thanks, not only for your vote of confidence, but also for saying so. It helps energize me because I'm a closet writer too, and I need positive feedback to keep producing. I think I'd do this project to completion anyway, but there have been times I've considered dropping the reports. Why continue something that is not only unappreciated, but perhaps viewed as "sheesh, here we go again!"? And that's what the mind makes up in the absence of encouragement, recognition, etc. ;)

Yesterday's work was to fine tune the front wall cap dimensions. After the steaming (that's the first time I've ever tried THAT!) and letting the wood fibers dry out overnight, I tried to square things up (another conundrum, what with nothing on this piece being square), but then I ran a pencil around the inside of the roof round to make some final marks on the new board. Once down on the bench all I could see were several old pencil marks, now with the new marks too and I couldn't tell the difference.

So I found a good size pencil eraser and went to work. Once the pencil marks were gone, back up went the board, a fresh re-squaring (re-rounding?), another few pencil marks - and back down on the bench it came.

Now I could see where to cut. But I noticed the passenger side was very few and very minor cuts, and the driver side had up to maybe 1/4" to remove on most of it! Visually the camper front looked right, but I wanted to make sure I was keeping the board symmetrical because the rounded roof could be slightly pressed one way or another to fit the wall cap.

There's nothing much to see in this next picture, but I just wanted to break up the narrative a bit.



So I measured up from each bottom corner and made a mark every six inches around the wall and roof line to about the mid width of the window cut outs. Then I verified the exact center-line of the bottom edge of the board. From that center-line point, I stretched a string from it to each side, at each same height (6" both sides, 12 inch both sides, etc.) and compared the distances left and right to where the cut marks were indicated in pencil. These distances were close enough (no more than 3/16" in a couple places and often lesser) so I went with the marks as shown, cutting on one side of the line for one side and the other side of the line for the other side to compensate slightly back toward symetrical.

While the board had been up on the camper, I had also mentally noted how my graduated angle cut looked, board to camper, and made a couple of notes for a different angle to use on the fine tune cut (again about 8 degrees on the vertical sides, increasing and rounding into 17 degrees along the top).

Again using the saber saw, I fine tune cut the board and then raised it back up for test fit. With slight manipulation it slid right into place, tight enough, but with slight space for gimp and manipulation. Down it came.



ticki2 mentioned yesterday about the roof reshaping and new escape hatch opening. As with anything, there are a number of ways to do things. His idea is good, but I think the only way I could have made that work was to sort of build a tower to mount the cover on, keeping the exact roof shape and dimension as original, but building a framing for the new opening that had enough height to create a flat upper framing, and that short tower would then need metal flashing of some sort. I just couldn't figure out a good way to do that without opening up a new potential water leak source on the roof, so I chose to flatten. As he said, there may be aluminum skin issues as I try to fit the different shaped roofs.

But upon further reflection afterward, I got thinking, maybe he was referring to the "front wall cap" aluminum skin? I located the piece and laid it out. And doing so, I discovered a previously un-mentioned consideration, that of the clearance light holes. They now appear to be right along the new roof line!



But it's kind of hard to see exact fit at this time as the aluminum spans the whole front cap surface, including the ends of the roof ribs. Then the rounded roof metal wraps around the roof and wall surface and FOLDS OVER the corner, thereafter covered by aluminum corner trim. It looks like it'll work at this time, but again, we shall see, and we'll just have to be flexible and adapt to whatever comes our way. :)

Then I got two coats of primer on both sides, including the fold cut. To help retain the board fold angle, there are support boards underneath.

I don't comment much on this, as your skills are WAY over my head and ability, but I do want to say I just love following this thread! I can't wait to see the final result after all your sweat, hard work and time!!! Kudos to you!

Dak

Also, keeping the shape of the original arch, and raising the escape hatch on the sides to a flattened state, would still raise the height of the sheet metal, so as to seal on top of the new framing. I had taken your suggestion at the time and thought it through, but couldn't seem to make it work out right in my head. This is a good example of a square plug in a round hole, eh?