LarryJM wrote:
Based on my non techincal assessment of the Equal-i-zer vs Reese dual cam I can see one actual real difference and that is the Equal-i-zer produces an even "friction force" for all 'YAW ANGLES" where as the Reese Dual Cam "friction force" is larger the greater the "YAW ANGLE". Not sure if there is much advantage of one over the other except it seems that the Dual Cam would allow a trailer to "wiggle" slightly back and forth off the center line position since the friction force would be less for these very small "YAW ANGLES" than the Equal-i-zer which would have a larger "fricton force" for very small "YAW ANGLES". Also, it seems from all the posts by users of the Dual Cam is that it needs to be adjusted much more accurately to ensure the bar notches are on the cams correctly than the Equal-i-zer which doesn't have that concern.
Larry
ScottG wrote:LarryJM wrote:
It appears you really do not understand these sway systems since the Reese DOES NOT RESIST SWAY and DOES NOT PUSH the combination back in line nor is it what could be called "ACTIVE SWAY CONTROL". The friction type sway bar sytems and the Reese and Equal-i-zer all are "FRICTION TYPE" sway systems .... they just perform the same function in slightly different ways.
Larry
No Larry, it's you that doesn't understand and I've seen you argue this way in the past.
In Reese's own literature it explains that friction plays no part in its function. And it IS active. The more sideways the trailer gets, the stronger the spring bar pushes back because the cam is climbing the bar and making it stiffer. Friction doesn't limit movement like on the system your familiar with. In fact, you can lubricate every part of it without having any impact on its function.
But this has already been explained in detail to you but you either refuse to learn or simply cannot understand it. If you had the system you would probably understand it better.
But for now, you and I and Reese will just have to have different opinions.
Ron Gratz wrote:jerem0621 wrote:
However, my preference is for an integrated sway control system, specifically, Reese Dual Cam sway control.
What this system does is work to force the trailer into a straight line with your tow vehicle and takes a proactive approach to preventing trailer sway.
Equal-i-zer also has integrated sway control, but I have no experience with this hitch. My minds eye says it is reactive like a friction sway control and not proactive, but I may be speaking out of turn.
I have no idea what you mean by "proactive" and "reactive" as regards sway control.
However, you do seem to imply that a Dual Cam is better than an Equal-i-zer because the DC is "proactive" and the EQ is "reactive".
Both the DC and EQ utilize friction forces to "stiffen" the yaw-axis connection between TV and TT.
Both generate a yaw-axis torque which opposes changes in the yaw angle between TV and TT. That is how they work to resist sway.
The effective difference between the DC and the EQ is that the EQ produces basically the same yaw-resisting torque
regardless of whether the TT is swinging away from centered or back toward centered,
while the DC produces more when swinging away and less when swinging back.
You could say that the DC "turns on" its sway control when the TT tries to swing away from centered,
and "turns off" its sway control when the TT tries to swing back.
IMO, that is not necessarily a good thing as regards sway control.
The DC does not work to force the TT into a straight line with the TV.
It simply decreases its yaw-resisting torque when the TT is swinging back toward centered.
The DC and the EQ both rely on friction forces to resist sway. IMO, neither is more "reactive" or "proactive" than the other.
Ron
Ron Gratz wrote:Skipnchar wrote:stephs2125 wrote:
The centerline uses a different technology to prevent trailer sway but both types will do the job about equally well. My personal opinion is that the centerline is slightly better because it is proactive rather than reactive as the Equalizer is but in use there will be very little difference in how they perform.
Does anyone know of a good site where I can research the differences in how a reactive vs. proactive system functions?
I doubt such a site exists.
I don't know how Skip defines "proactive" and "reactive". My understading of the two terms would lead me to characterize the two hitches opposite to how Skip does.
IMO, the Equal-i-zer is proactive because it uses friction forces to stiffen the yaw-axis connection between TV and trailer. The yaw-resisting torque is present even when there is zero yaw angle between TV and TT.
IMO, the Center Line is reactive because it relies on spring compression to generate a yaw-resisting torque. When there is zero yaw angle, there is zero yaw-resisting torque. The trailer must develope a non-zero yaw angle before the yaw-resisting torque begins to build.
Ron
jerem0621 wrote:Huntindog wrote:ScottG wrote:Some years back, Ron Gratz did the calculations. The cams really did not add a lot to what is a friction based system.LarryJM wrote:ScottG wrote:
You would be better off making some adjustments to try and reduce the effect. More spring rate or more weight at front of trailer.
Also, a better hitch like the Reese Dual Cam with active sway control will both resist sway and push the combination back in line.
There are other brands that offer active sway control but I've not used them.
It appears you really do not understand these sway systems since the Reese DOES NOT RESIST SWAY and DOES NOT PUSH the combination back in line nor is it what could be called "ACTIVE SWAY CONTROL". The friction type sway bar sytems and the Reese and Equal-i-zer all are "FRICTION TYPE" sway systems .... they just perform the same function in slightly different ways.
Larry
No Larry, it's you that doesn't understand and I've seen you argue this way in the past.
In Reese's own literature it explains that friction plays no part in its function. And it IS active. The more sideways the trailer gets, the stronger the spring bar pushes back because the cam is climbing the bar and making it stiffer. Friction doesn't limit movement like on the system your familiar with. In fact, you can lubricate every part of it without having any impact on its function.
But this has already been explained in detail to you but you either refuse to learn or simply cannot understand it. If you had the system you would probably understand it better.
But for now, you and I and Reese will just have to have different opinions.
In fact, Ron did the calculations for all three hitches and they were very close as to their anti sway measurements.
My own experience bears this out. I started with a single, then a dual friction sway control. I now am on my third Equalizer.
IMO, a dual sway control works just as well as the EQUALIZER, just as Rons calculations said it should. Now there are some other reasons why one may want to go away from a friction sway bar to an integrated friction control, but performance shouldn't be one of them.
If you really believe that the cams are strong enough to force the tt into a straight line.... Then you better not tow on a muddy road, or in any adverse conditions at all.... That would not be a good situation.
Facts are, there is no issues with towing with a DC under those conditions,,,,So the cams cannot be as strong as you believe.
Yep, I have use DC and dual friction bars and there was ZERO difference once both were dialed in. Both were very comfy tows.
DC seems to break when they get in a bind though. One reason I like friction bars. If i break a sway bar its cheap to replace (I usually have a spare anyway)
One negative about the DC sway control is that if the spring bars are a lighter weight bar (600 or 800) then the bars themselves are narrower than the cam's and can move side to side allowing some of that wiggle people get twitchy about when towing.
Dual friction bars don't care about the weight distribution part, they are independent. I used 1 bar with my PUP and 2 with my TT. Both combos were locked in solid with the TV's and were very comfortable and relaxing tows.
This is another reason I like my TV's to be able to handle the tongue weight 100% without weight distribution. I carry a back up stinger in case my weight distribution hitch breaks (it happens) and having a regular draw bar can let you continue towing without the WD hitch and still be safe. Oh, you can add the sway bar mounts to the regular draw bar so now I still have my sway control even if I lose my WD. Being stuck at the campground with no way to tow is not a good feeling.
OP.. Please weigh your rig and KNOW what you are looking at. Too light of a tongue weight will make things sketchy too.
1,000 plus posts on how to weigh your rig, please search. and then post back with your actual weights, that will help a bunch.
Sway control should be something added AFTER dialing in the combo (truck, trailer, and hitch) . it is insurance and should not be used as a band-aid.
All the second bar did for my combo is take the little bit of wiggle out from passing vehicles. My truck, trailer, and hitch were dialed in. The sway bars were just the icing on the cake.
Thanks!
Jeremiah
Huntindog wrote:ScottG wrote:Some years back, Ron Gratz did the calculations. The cams really did not add a lot to what is a friction based system.LarryJM wrote:ScottG wrote:
You would be better off making some adjustments to try and reduce the effect. More spring rate or more weight at front of trailer.
Also, a better hitch like the Reese Dual Cam with active sway control will both resist sway and push the combination back in line.
There are other brands that offer active sway control but I've not used them.
It appears you really do not understand these sway systems since the Reese DOES NOT RESIST SWAY and DOES NOT PUSH the combination back in line nor is it what could be called "ACTIVE SWAY CONTROL". The friction type sway bar sytems and the Reese and Equal-i-zer all are "FRICTION TYPE" sway systems .... they just perform the same function in slightly different ways.
Larry
No Larry, it's you that doesn't understand and I've seen you argue this way in the past.
In Reese's own literature it explains that friction plays no part in its function. And it IS active. The more sideways the trailer gets, the stronger the spring bar pushes back because the cam is climbing the bar and making it stiffer. Friction doesn't limit movement like on the system your familiar with. In fact, you can lubricate every part of it without having any impact on its function.
But this has already been explained in detail to you but you either refuse to learn or simply cannot understand it. If you had the system you would probably understand it better.
But for now, you and I and Reese will just have to have different opinions.
In fact, Ron did the calculations for all three hitches and they were very close as to their anti sway measurements.
My own experience bears this out. I started with a single, then a dual friction sway control. I now am on my third Equalizer.
IMO, a dual sway control works just as well as the EQUALIZER, just as Rons calculations said it should. Now there are some other reasons why one may want to go away from a friction sway bar to an integrated friction control, but performance shouldn't be one of them.
If you really believe that the cams are strong enough to force the tt into a straight line.... Then you better not tow on a muddy road, or in any adverse conditions at all.... That would not be a good situation.
Facts are, there is no issues with towing with a DC under those conditions,,,,So the cams cannot be as strong as you believe.
ScottG wrote:Some years back, Ron Gratz did the calculations. The cams really did not add a lot to what is a friction based system.LarryJM wrote:ScottG wrote:
You would be better off making some adjustments to try and reduce the effect. More spring rate or more weight at front of trailer.
Also, a better hitch like the Reese Dual Cam with active sway control will both resist sway and push the combination back in line.
There are other brands that offer active sway control but I've not used them.
It appears you really do not understand these sway systems since the Reese DOES NOT RESIST SWAY and DOES NOT PUSH the combination back in line nor is it what could be called "ACTIVE SWAY CONTROL". The friction type sway bar sytems and the Reese and Equal-i-zer all are "FRICTION TYPE" sway systems .... they just perform the same function in slightly different ways.
Larry
No Larry, it's you that doesn't understand and I've seen you argue this way in the past.
In Reese's own literature it explains that friction plays no part in its function. And it IS active. The more sideways the trailer gets, the stronger the spring bar pushes back because the cam is climbing the bar and making it stiffer. Friction doesn't limit movement like on the system your familiar with. In fact, you can lubricate every part of it without having any impact on its function.
But this has already been explained in detail to you but you either refuse to learn or simply cannot understand it. If you had the system you would probably understand it better.
But for now, you and I and Reese will just have to have different opinions.
DutchmenSport wrote:The wing can be easily welded to the hitch head.
If your hitch head does not have a wing on the top on both sides where the little ball fits, you are going to have to get a new hitch head so you can get a friction bar on both sides. You'll also have to add the second ball mounted to the trailer frame on the opposite side. Then, you'll have to find a left sided sway bar, as everything will be turned opposite from the right side set up. By the time you purchase a new hitch head, install all the parts for the second sway bar, and re-install your hitch ball, you'll be much better off to just toss the entire system and purchase a new weight distribution system that is much simpler and does it all. Systems like the 4 point Equal-i-zer and the Reese Dual Cam systems come to mind immediately.
Now, if your hitch head already has the second wing with the hole for the ball, then adding a second friction bar should be pretty simple, but you'll still need to mount the left side ball on the trailer A-frame.
More info, click here.
tewitt1949 wrote:
I should have mentioned I have a 2018 Chevy 2500hd duromax. The sway problem didn't just start with this truck. I've been pulling the trailer since 96 when new. I think the tongue weight is 800 lbs. I always have put max pressure (80 lb) in all 8 tires on the truck and trailer and that does help a lot. The last time I pulled (a couple weeks ago) I did tighten the pressure on the sway bar (tighter) and that did help and took a lot of sway out of it. It don't go back and forth while just driving, but wiggles a little when big rigs pass and some other vehicles. My trailer weighs 8500 empty. I know tongue weight is important. The reason I'm thinking 2 bars would be better is after tightening the one sway bar did help quite a bit and now seems to be more stable, I assume 2 bars would would be even better. It would put even pressure on each side of the tongue and not excessive pressure on just one side. Maybe the whole problem is I just didn't have enough swaybar pressure all along. When it sways or wiggles it makes for a white knuckle drive.
