2000 Bigfoot 10.6 Electrical Upgrade/Solar Advice
I currently own a 1988 Bigfoot C-11.5 that I upgraded the electrical system in about 7 years ago with much help from this forum. RedDog was VERY helpful as were others and I greatly appreciate it.
I will be picking up a new to me 2000 Bigfoot 10.6B in a week or two. I've been in this camper a few times but I'm not very familiar with what electrical components are located where. The original battery boiler converter is still there and works when it wants to. It currently has an Onan 2500 that I plan to keep for now.
A new converter is mandatory. A Parallax converter from Best Converter is the rough draft. In reading other posts I've seen suggestions for a high amp converter to allow fast charging the batteries from the generator. That's appealing. I'm interested in input as I know technology has probably improved in 7 years. Clean voltage for electronics is a must but I think all the quality converters meet that.
I am hoping to stick with Lifeline AGM Group 31XT 125a/h batteries. A single one has served me well in the 88 Bigfoot. I'm hoping someone has the dimensions on the 10.6B battery compartment. I believe the E model came out in 2002 and I'm not sure if the compartment/opening is the same. 2000 was the first year of the radius corner doors. It seems that 2000 and 2001 models would be identical and 2002-up is unknown. My understanding is that 2 Group 27 batteries were standard. The Group 31XT is slightly taller so I'm not 100% sure they will fit. It is 12.9" x 6.75" x 9.27" per Lifeline. I picked a random Group 27 Interstate Deep Cycle and they show 12.75" x 6.75" x 9.5". Unless the height is super critical it seems this will work.
I looked at lithium batteries but at $1300 each I've ruled that out.
Solar is very much on the wish list. I have basic solar knowledge. My preference is two thin stick on panels about 100w each. My reasoning is they can conform to the curvature of the roof, some appear to be shade tolerant, they do not stick up to A)trip me, B) add more air drag/turbulence, C) less holes in the roof is always better. My understanding is they may not last as long as other types. My current thought is that is acceptable. Has anyone used the panels from Sunflare Solar? At least one RV company, Vistabule, is using that as a factory option. I have not tried to source them yet but they seem interesting.
I'm not clear on what electronics I need to process the solar. I believe an inverter is required as is a controller from someone like Zamp. Does the controller also duplicate the functions of a TriMetric? I have one on the current camper and it was nice to have until some uninvited electric gremlin fried it.
I guess I should mention how I use my camper if that changes opinions on the design. It is used 30-40 days/year for vacation/activities. When traveling in cool months we will often overnight or camp with no hookups. With the family along the limiting factor (2-3 days) has been holding tanks not electricity. With the new camper we should double time between dump stations. In warmer weather we use hookups. The most limiting thing for us right now is not being to stay out 4-5 days without hookups. We'd like to be able to stay in the Hayden Valley area campgrounds at Yellowstone in the future rather than being tethered to Fishing Bridge. Some years the camper may also be used on job sites or at trade shows but that almost always involves full hookups.
I'm sure there are some questions I either don't know to ask or have forgotten. My friend who will help with the install is an electrical engineer but he does no know much about solar either.
Thanks for any advice!
I will be picking up a new to me 2000 Bigfoot 10.6B in a week or two. I've been in this camper a few times but I'm not very familiar with what electrical components are located where. The original battery boiler converter is still there and works when it wants to. It currently has an Onan 2500 that I plan to keep for now.
A new converter is mandatory. A Parallax converter from Best Converter is the rough draft. In reading other posts I've seen suggestions for a high amp converter to allow fast charging the batteries from the generator. That's appealing. I'm interested in input as I know technology has probably improved in 7 years. Clean voltage for electronics is a must but I think all the quality converters meet that.
I am hoping to stick with Lifeline AGM Group 31XT 125a/h batteries. A single one has served me well in the 88 Bigfoot. I'm hoping someone has the dimensions on the 10.6B battery compartment. I believe the E model came out in 2002 and I'm not sure if the compartment/opening is the same. 2000 was the first year of the radius corner doors. It seems that 2000 and 2001 models would be identical and 2002-up is unknown. My understanding is that 2 Group 27 batteries were standard. The Group 31XT is slightly taller so I'm not 100% sure they will fit. It is 12.9" x 6.75" x 9.27" per Lifeline. I picked a random Group 27 Interstate Deep Cycle and they show 12.75" x 6.75" x 9.5". Unless the height is super critical it seems this will work.
I looked at lithium batteries but at $1300 each I've ruled that out.
Solar is very much on the wish list. I have basic solar knowledge. My preference is two thin stick on panels about 100w each. My reasoning is they can conform to the curvature of the roof, some appear to be shade tolerant, they do not stick up to A)trip me, B) add more air drag/turbulence, C) less holes in the roof is always better. My understanding is they may not last as long as other types. My current thought is that is acceptable. Has anyone used the panels from Sunflare Solar? At least one RV company, Vistabule, is using that as a factory option. I have not tried to source them yet but they seem interesting.
I'm not clear on what electronics I need to process the solar. I believe an inverter is required as is a controller from someone like Zamp. Does the controller also duplicate the functions of a TriMetric? I have one on the current camper and it was nice to have until some uninvited electric gremlin fried it.
I guess I should mention how I use my camper if that changes opinions on the design. It is used 30-40 days/year for vacation/activities. When traveling in cool months we will often overnight or camp with no hookups. With the family along the limiting factor (2-3 days) has been holding tanks not electricity. With the new camper we should double time between dump stations. In warmer weather we use hookups. The most limiting thing for us right now is not being to stay out 4-5 days without hookups. We'd like to be able to stay in the Hayden Valley area campgrounds at Yellowstone in the future rather than being tethered to Fishing Bridge. Some years the camper may also be used on job sites or at trade shows but that almost always involves full hookups.
I'm sure there are some questions I either don't know to ask or have forgotten. My friend who will help with the install is an electrical engineer but he does no know much about solar either.
Thanks for any advice!
