2006 Hallmark Ute rotted wood repair
I'm going to start off my first post by saying I've been perusing this site for sometime, and have learned a lot...espcially lubing Happy Jacks. My wife and I have had this Hallmark Ute for a year....
Forum Discussion
More demolitin pictures...
Here is the rear of the camper with the wall removed. It didn't take long to remove, it just crumbled to the floor into a pile of fire tinder.
--------------------------
This next picture is the cab-over fiberglas bunk/bed. The use of a panel lift worked great.
-----------------------------------
This image is taken from the front of the camper with the bunk removed. Because I am replacing the front wall anyway, I just sawed the top of the wall off, to allow the bunk to slide out on the panel lift. The bunk was attached to the top of the front wall and I could not access the screws because the roof raising mechanism was in the way. The lift arm brackets were attached to the side walls and the top wall, so to support the roof, I stood a 2x4 as far forward as I could with a 2x4 and a 2x6 at each end and lowered the roof to rest. With the weight on the 2x4, I was able to remove the screws holding the lead screw assy, and then lowered the roof a little more which raised the assy up off from the front wall.
---------------------------------
I'm getting a little excited that I'm nearing the assembly stage. I still need to deal with these front corners without having to remove all of the cabinets.
I think I'm going to do as was suggested from an earlier poster about just cutting out the bad area of wood and then cut a patch using 1/2" MDO. To secure the patch, I will then get a piece of 3/4"MDO and fasten it to the bottom.(I found 1/2" and 3/4" 2ft x 4ft MDO on Amazon..a little pricey, but cheaper than having a sheet trucked to northern MN).
The following picture is looking at the bottom side of the wing. I did measure my pick-up box height to be sure the additional 3/4" would not hit the top rail...I have room to spare. I do need to keep this 3/4" piece about 2" narrow from the outside edge because the outer fiberglass shell has a small lip on the bottom that must be secured to the original 1/2" material. I'll be sure to seal all of the cuts.
Here is the rear of the camper with the wall removed. It didn't take long to remove, it just crumbled to the floor into a pile of fire tinder.
--------------------------
This next picture is the cab-over fiberglas bunk/bed. The use of a panel lift worked great.
-----------------------------------
This image is taken from the front of the camper with the bunk removed. Because I am replacing the front wall anyway, I just sawed the top of the wall off, to allow the bunk to slide out on the panel lift. The bunk was attached to the top of the front wall and I could not access the screws because the roof raising mechanism was in the way. The lift arm brackets were attached to the side walls and the top wall, so to support the roof, I stood a 2x4 as far forward as I could with a 2x4 and a 2x6 at each end and lowered the roof to rest. With the weight on the 2x4, I was able to remove the screws holding the lead screw assy, and then lowered the roof a little more which raised the assy up off from the front wall.
---------------------------------
I'm getting a little excited that I'm nearing the assembly stage. I still need to deal with these front corners without having to remove all of the cabinets.
I think I'm going to do as was suggested from an earlier poster about just cutting out the bad area of wood and then cut a patch using 1/2" MDO. To secure the patch, I will then get a piece of 3/4"MDO and fasten it to the bottom.(I found 1/2" and 3/4" 2ft x 4ft MDO on Amazon..a little pricey, but cheaper than having a sheet trucked to northern MN).
The following picture is looking at the bottom side of the wing. I did measure my pick-up box height to be sure the additional 3/4" would not hit the top rail...I have room to spare. I do need to keep this 3/4" piece about 2" narrow from the outside edge because the outer fiberglass shell has a small lip on the bottom that must be secured to the original 1/2" material. I'll be sure to seal all of the cuts.
