2013 Ford F350 trailer braking issue

BenK wrote:

Learjet wrote:
I have the same issue, I blame both my new trailer and I would like more power from the IBC...running on 10 with not enough brakes. I have adjusted my brakes twice now om my trailer with no change.

Subscribing.

That is the nature of TV MC PSI based trailer brake controllers (also
IBC's) and why the preset is so important. Though also important to
inertia based trailer brake controllers

When the TV brake pedal is pressed...it travels a bit (varies from OEM
to OEM) BEFORE it develops any MC PSI...but most do get the brake lights
turned on BEFORE the MC develops PSI

The preset determines the starting level of voltage sent to the
trailer brakes. Or the minimum voltage sent, once told to turn on

Below is my opinion from reading up on IBC's when they first came out
and do not know if they have changed


Then the MC PSI takes over and the hysteresis is preset by the OEM
for the IBC's voltage to the trailer brakes

The amount of voltage sent is determined by the MC's PSI. Press hardere
and the IBC will send more voltage

With an inertia based trailer brake controller, once there is *ANY*
deceleration, the inertial sensor will take over with the preset
as the LOWEST starting point.

The MC PSI only manages this via the more you press & brake the TV,
the more the inertia sensor will tell the trailer brake controller
to brake more (more voltage sent to the trailer)

Thats old news.

Many changes HAVE occurred from when Ford introduced the first IBC, older IBCs may have depended on a MC pressure transducer only but newer IBCs use much more than the MC.

2011 and up also use direct computer inputs from the speed sensor, what gear it is in, throttle position ect. All the inputs are used to allow for the smoothest brakes possible.

It truly is "integrated" to the vehicle.

Max output also is a function of speed, slower speeds the IBC will apply less than max, the higher speeds the more the IBC can apply up to the max setting.

On some trailers one run of 10 ga wire MAY NOT BE GOOD ENOUGH. Longer trailers will NEED a larger ga of wire since the runs are longer.

We are not worried about what or how much current is flowing through the wire, instead we are concerned about the voltage DROP at the end of the line.

To fully check the voltage drop, you can simply pull the break away pin. Measure the battery voltage at the battery, then compare that to the voltage at each magnet.. If you have more than .1V drop then you have too light of wire..

Like I mentioned before, I ran TWO PAIRS of 10 ga wire..

Other things to consider, I am using the largest cord I could get between the vehicle and trailer. Has 8 ga wire for the ground connection..

I would start checking the ground wire and any connections front to back. Make sure they are solidly connected and the wire at the connection points are not tarnished.