trailer brake issue

Update.
Crawled under this morning to take a look. Sure enough, a broken wire in the rear axle hub driver side . A quick fix with a crimp and tape to work for the trip until I make a better permanent fix. the other 3 were in tact and looked good although the cheap wire job went to one axle and pigtailed over ....... junk!!!!

With covid and a bad fractured ankle 16 months ago I did not use trailer a lot for past 2 years and did not notice things but knew braking was not right....... my fault for sure. I figure I was running with only braking on my front axle!!!!!


While getting started this morning I notice my front tire on passenger side of trailer has 2 good size pieces of the rib missing . These are Sailun 3607 good tires I put on 6 years ago. Glad I saw it!!!!!! Dropped the spare and looked at that piece of junk and thought no way!!!

Called a local reputable shop and they had 4 sailuns left and had me installed 2 hours later . Great shout out to Kal tire!!!!!
I did have about 35,000 k on the first sailuns so no complaints there.
Thanks to all you who helped out.
Safe travels!!!!

Fisherman wrote:

Geo*Boy wrote:

WNYBob wrote:
Don't use dielectric grease!
Use contact cleaner / lube.

Why no dielectric grease?

Dielectric grease is actually an "insulator" for lack of better words, do not use it between points of contact.

The point of the grease is to prevent corrosion of the terminals. Corrosion is a much more effective insulator than the grease is.

The downfall of grease is that it catches and holds dirt so some effort to prevent contamination when the connectors are not plugged in is beneficial.

Below link might help some understand HOW2 us dielectric grease on electrical contacts.

https://www.thedrive.com/maintenance-repair/39173/dielectric-grease


Or lookup "electrical contact wiping", which has the mating contacts "wipe" against themselved.

This wipes off oxidation to get metal to metal.

Dielectric Grease gets wiped off during that mating and whatever grease is left will seal the connection.

Geo*Boy wrote:

WNYBob wrote:
Don't use dielectric grease!
Use contact cleaner / lube.

Why no dielectric grease?

Dielectric grease is actually an "insulator" for lack of better words, do not use it between points of contact.

Etrailer recommends the use of dielectric grease...checkout their HOW2 on the link below

https://www.etrailer.com/faq-dielectric-grease.aspx

WNYBob wrote:
Don't use dielectric grease!
Use contact cleaner / lube.

Why no dielectric grease?

This was happening to me and I simply cleaned and re-bent the contacts from trailer to truck connection and problem fixed

Most all of the similar problems helped others with…ended up with the trailer wiring.

Most common was the harness to the drum brake.

2nd most is the routing and some trailer OEMs uses daisy-chain.

After unplugging & cleaning contacts & applying dia electric grease most were better.

Best has been to retire the trailer with dedicated runs from each wheel brake directly to a central point by the coupler.

If you go that route, increase the wire gauge and only use ringlugs…NEVER tap connectors (they were invented for telephone use…a static application)

Picked trailer up to tow home for a trip in a few days. Blew air through pig tails and cleaned them up and did add some grease.
Read about choosing electric over the electric over hydraulic option through the settings screen. Tried that and still see trailer disconnected?????
Then I switch to electric over hydraulic and it shows connected and gain setting at 10 and there is braking but it is poor.

Looking that I need to check the wires at the wheels under trailer. All original and probably dirty and corroded.
38 degrees C here
Don't feel like getting under trailer at all right now!!!
Have a few days prior to trip so will check tomorrow when it is cooler in the AM.

Sometimes the connector gets a little wore out. You have to expand the connections a little so they are tighter (or replace the ends).