2013 GMC 2500 HD 6.0/gas - Breaking questions

Lynnmor wrote:

old guy wrote:
I was taught to push on the brakes and slow down fast then let up for the brakes to cool.

Sure, stomp the brakes really, really hard, that'll work great!

I think that was much more true with drum brakes and old materials that were more subject to glazing. You probably don't want to drag your brakes for a mile or two but there is no need to really get on them unless you are afraid of losing control.

7,000lbs is such a light load for a 2500 I don't think that the op is going to have much trouble regardless, especially if he keeps his trailer brakes working well and keeps his speed under control from the top. Of course, the trailer brakes most likely are drums.

I have the exact truck and similar trailer weight. Last year I pulled through southern Colorado going over 10,000 feet a couple of times.

Going out I just left it in tow / haul and tapped the brakes to downshift and as mentioned above, if speed picked up too much, I'd step on the brakes pretty hard and get below my comfort speed and start all over.

Coming back, I put my transmission in manual shift and used the toggle to shift up and down and it worked a lot better. It was easier to control speed down and my trans temp was 20 - 30 degrees cooler going up compared to using the automatic setting.

I got up to ~4800 rpm going both up and down. It sounded too high but I figured they make 'em to do it.

I kept my foot in it when needed.....

old guy wrote:
I was taught to push on the brakes and slow down fast then let up for the brakes to cool.

Sure, stomp the brakes really, really hard, that'll work great!

My 15 Silverado in tow haul mode will do some transmission braking and also has a feature called grade braking. After applying the brakes on the downhill the truck will try to keep the speed. I have found cruise on the downhill will also try to maintain the speed set using transmission braking. I tried the cruise feature on my trip to CO this summer after using to much brake on the big passes and it worked well on the "smaller" hills.

Being from WI i dont get to test this often so keep that in mind.

ArcticFox&Cats wrote:
Anyone with experience towing with the '13 GMC 2500HD with the 6.0 gas engine? Specifically breaking, engine compression, help with slowing vehicle and rig down on steeper terrain. Trailer is GVWR 7,000.

I have a 2015 GMC 2500 WITH 6.0, trailer is A Rockwood Roo with a GVWR of 6400.

Yesterday I returned from a state park we camp at frequently about 30 miles from home. We have to cross the first two ridges of the alleghenies, west side. On the way home we descend one grade, Laurel Ridge on state rt 31. That is 5 miles long, 7% or better in most places with two sections @ 13%. The second is Chestnut ridge on rt 711, 3 miles @ 6%.

I may have used the brake a dozen times and most of those were at intersections or for other vehicles making a turn. The trick with the 6.0 4-10 is to not barrel over the top of the mountain at 70 mph. Use 2nd gear or 3rd in manual shift, and do not be afraid to let the tach go up into 5K rpm territory.

Dont worry about the pissed off idiots behind you because youre doing 40 mph down. They can not understand why you are doing so as they think since your going down a mountain you should be doing 90mph and riding your brake the entire way. Theyll most likely be about a foot from your back bumper. They missed those large yellow signs limiting commercial trucks to low gear and 20 mph that say warning...steep grades, sharp curves, do not know what those gravel ramps are for that shoot off uphill, and probably run their daily driver until they have metal to metal contact, then go to the dealer wondering what the weird noise is.

my 6.0 is an 02 with 4.10 gears and I start out slow going down steep grades and keep into lower gears. I was taught to push on the brakes and slow down fast then let up for the brakes to cool. if you keep gaining speed after this tactic drop down another gear.