2016 Dodge 3500 dually wide fenders
Just picked up our new 2016 Dodge 3500 dually to replace the old reliable 1997. Question is the new trucks bed is very wide from the front all the way to the rear "outside", before I order new mounts ...
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I have a 2015 ram Dually. here is a picture of what my wolf creak looks like on it. (i did it as a link because the picture is big).
big picture I wish I had a picture from the back. I recall you can get the fat part of your fist between the fender and fastgun on the rear.
also keep in mind your camper floor is 9' where mine is 8'-6" so that gives you even more room for your wing back there.
This has Torklift mounts. The rear mounts have pins through holes that allow them to stick out the most. I think when mounted in the inner location they will still not hit, but if camper shifts it might will hit. I think with my rear brackets on the inner holes (maybe even the outer holes) the fast guns are still in closer to the fenders, so you might fit.
I also wrapped pipe isolation around the bodies of the fast guns on the back because they do hit the fender when I open them them if I am not careful.
The dually brackets I used on front jacks are Rieco-Titan E-Z Swing Brackets. they look a whole lot stronger (and cost more), but after shopping around I found them for not much than the cheaper ones.
are both the old and new truck the same length bed? They do sell a rail that allows you to relocate the rear tie down mounts (I think it even says Dodge on the description) , but the guy at tweeties said he has not sold any of them in years because it was the 3rd or 4th gen dodge had the problem of wide fenders in the back.
first I would get the dually brackets, than back the truck under the camper and see how it works out.
I changed my Dually brackets by putting a block and jack under each front corner of the camper as I changed one at a time. my jacks don't all run the same speed, and I have seen the camper on 3 legs before so I figured using a jack and block would give enough support to install the hinge. Than on my jacks I can spin the motors so they fit in nice and tight when jacks are swung in.
big picture I wish I had a picture from the back. I recall you can get the fat part of your fist between the fender and fastgun on the rear.
also keep in mind your camper floor is 9' where mine is 8'-6" so that gives you even more room for your wing back there.
This has Torklift mounts. The rear mounts have pins through holes that allow them to stick out the most. I think when mounted in the inner location they will still not hit, but if camper shifts it might will hit. I think with my rear brackets on the inner holes (maybe even the outer holes) the fast guns are still in closer to the fenders, so you might fit.
I also wrapped pipe isolation around the bodies of the fast guns on the back because they do hit the fender when I open them them if I am not careful.
The dually brackets I used on front jacks are Rieco-Titan E-Z Swing Brackets. they look a whole lot stronger (and cost more), but after shopping around I found them for not much than the cheaper ones.
are both the old and new truck the same length bed? They do sell a rail that allows you to relocate the rear tie down mounts (I think it even says Dodge on the description) , but the guy at tweeties said he has not sold any of them in years because it was the 3rd or 4th gen dodge had the problem of wide fenders in the back.
first I would get the dually brackets, than back the truck under the camper and see how it works out.
I changed my Dually brackets by putting a block and jack under each front corner of the camper as I changed one at a time. my jacks don't all run the same speed, and I have seen the camper on 3 legs before so I figured using a jack and block would give enough support to install the hinge. Than on my jacks I can spin the motors so they fit in nice and tight when jacks are swung in.
