3m marine 5200

Not sure if 3M5200 isn't over-kill for this application. It's great for exterior, even under-water applications, but wouldn't a standard construction adhesive be ok for this, assuming it's all interior and the leak has been fixed.

Also 5200 and any construction adhesive that comes in a tube is pretty thick stuff. There are thinner construction adhesives available if necessary.

There are bolts that go into the metal track on the bottom of the wall that went through stud that sits on the floor. but the two studs one top of the floor and one under the floor had been attached to the paneling that was glued (laminated)to the shell. So I want to reattach it similar way.

We always use it. Yup it takes a week to cure but you can usually handle it in 3 days. You don't want to use it on anything you may want to take apart easily. If you get it hot enough it will release. fast cure is ok but you cant caulk an open seam it looks bad. It is great stuff but I don't like the 4200.

Also keep in mind 5200 takes a week to cure. They do have a quick dry version of 5200, but I have never used it.

When I had my last sailboat, I discovered a product called 5200. I forgot who makes it. It's a super-duper bonding agent for boats. If you use it to glue a piece of wood to a piece of fiberglass, you'd better be prepared to have them married for life. If you do manage to get them separated, both pieces will be unuseable, and you will have some wood on the fiberglass and some fiberglass on the wood. In fact, the only way to get them separated is to use a grinder to completely grind off the one of the two pieces you don't want to exist anymore.

Some 15 years later, I decided to replace the last sink I'll ever wind up replacing myself. I remembered this magical 5200 stuff. I thought that since it was good enough to use on boats, it was good enough for my new kitchen sink.

I used it to glue the sink to the countertop. :r

Five years later, I decided I didn't like the ceramic sink so much anymore. I called my handyman over to help me get the sink removed. At first he was like :s to the story of how fantastic 5200 was.

45 minutes into the job, we hadn't succeeded in cutting through any of the 5200. None. Not one centimeter. And this was the standard 22 X 33 sink cutout. We tried chisels, knives, razor blades, carpet knives, you name it. The only thing we managed to accomplish was to chip a little of the 5200 out of the area we used to seal the edge of the sink to the countertop.

So I just wound up replacing the faucet and the garbage disposal.

The only thing we didn't try was a Dremel tool with one of those little 1" round circular blades. The only reason I didn't try that was that I was pretty sure I would end up damaging the countertop to the point that it would be visible, even with the new sink.

I'm going to have to replace the countertop whenever I finally do have to replace that sink. :m


My handyman and I now refer to this 5200 product as "the stuff of which we do not speak".

I have used 5200 many times on boats and can tell you that it will not easily come off. It is not particularly sticky before it is cured, rather more like any other caulking so you will need to figure out some way of tacking the two components together until it cures.

They also make 4200 which is what I suggest you use for anything you might want to remove in the future. 5200 will rip fiberglass apart before it can be removed so only use where you never want it to come apart. It also cures under water if that is ever needed, like in a tank just to get you home.

Are you replacing trim that was on the wall or part of the trailer's framing?
I guess you could use 5200 adhesive (usable surfaces should be on the label) but it's fairly pricey for attaching wood. Are you hammer-challenged?

The insulation in the floor has the function of any insulation product, it helps keep the inside warm or cool.

Edit: Just remembered you were the guy with the "floating shell". You are probably referring to the bottom sill of the wall framing with "boards". Now I get it.
No, you can't glue the wall back together. You need a bunch of mechanical fasteners in there, nails or screws. If you haven't already done it, you'll need to expose the wall cavity where you can drive the fasteners in. The fasteners should attach studs in wall to bottom sill and bottom sill to trailer floor. In some trailers, the floor is then bolted to the trailer frame. In some, the bottom sill with floor is through-bolted to the frame.

jay b wrote:
And what is the purpose of the insulation in the floor.

No purpose. Waste of money.